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Thanks, I'll consider that. Ray Mac

subaruman5, I will have to look when I get up to the hills again. I hope to do that later this week. I don't recall if the headlights are single or dual. . Thanks, Ray Mac

Thanks, folks, I'll reconsider what to do between now and 25 March, when it has to be gone. Ray Mac

Thanks, maestro. Yes, too bad, it looks like you're down near the border with North Carolina and I guess it'sabout 26-2700 miles from here. I have not used JB weld before. I don't know if it would be strong enough to hold if I drilled the hole out. I think the guy who tried to fix it was going to use an easy out but he couldn't drill into the bolt with the drill he had. Glad to hear it's non-interference ... Ray Mac

NickNakorn, Thanks, I would like to repair it but it's not that simple. Apparently the tensioner bolt on the driver's side broke off flush with the block when the pulley bearing seized. My kin had an amateur mechanic try to extract the rest of the bolt, but he only managed to muck things up further, so there it sits. Possibly I can get it towed to a neighbour's property while I try to sort things out. I really don't want to scrap it, but I have a time limit to deal with as well. The other concern would be about internal damage when the belt on that side came loose; I don't know if if this is an interference engine. Ray Mac

maestro, Vacaville, CA is on Interstate Highway 80, 60 miles east of San Francisco. However the Subaru is 130 miles from here in the Sierra foothills, a long trek for this old man, and the last mile to get there is on a bad dirt road. Ray Mac

Sorry, I see someone else asked the same question in an earlier thread, and I didn't see that before I posted. Ray Mac

Hi, I'm executor of an estate where this wagon was left behind. It will be scrapped by the buyer of the property but I can pull a few parts if I want. It quit running when the timing belt tensioner sheared off and the owner was unable to get it fixed (it's in a remote area). I can't pull anything big, or that would take a lot of effort to pull. Any parts I get I would sell, I would have no use for them. Starter? Alternator? Ignition parts? etc Would appreciate suggestions, thanks. Ray Mac.

Good, thanks. Ray Mac.

With A/C I have both an electric and an engine driven fan. I have an oil leak which appears to be from a front seal, and am hoping to do it myself. Haynes says to remove both fans prior to removing the radiator, but after removing the 4 nuts holding the engine fan to the water pump pulley I can't get the hub off. The 4 studs are about 3/16" too long for the fan to clear the radiator. I'm stuck here---any suggestions? Ray Mac

OK, thanks, that gives me hope. I am also glad that during my search I found out about the other things that should be taken care of along with replacing the belt. Ray Mac

Hi, Back here again after not needing help for more than a year. My daughter thinks she's lost a timing belt on her '87 GL D/R. She claims she got it home on 2 cylinders. Searching through posts on timing belt replacement, I see that the 2.5 is an interference engine, but I didn't find anything out about the 1.8. If there's internal damage it goes to the wrecker, it's too tired anyway. Thanks, Ray Mac

He claimed he had time to locate the jack where it was stowed, get it out and break the back window with it. I think it's likely that by that time the water was no longer rising and he knew he had enough time. If it's any consolation, he bloodied himself pretty badly going through the broken window However from my own experience with power windows and locks in other vehicles I certainly would not buy another vehicle that had them, too much to go wrong, with or without an emergency. Ray Mac

I'm usually on the older Soob site but am curious about this: Last night a San francisco Bay Area radio newscaster ran his Outback into a flooded area and was stalled before he knew the water was there. The water rose fast. When he was interviewed later he said that he had not been able to roll down his power windows to get out, that the power door locks kept him from opening a door, and that he broke off the door handle trying to open it. He claimed he was only able to get out by going to the rear and breaking out the back window with the jack. Did this guy panic and miss doing something obvious, or is this a design flaw? Ray Mac

Converter rattle? Ray Mac

I'm not familiar with Justys, but SOMEBODY out there is, and should try to help the man. We need all the positive overseas feelings we can get. Ray Mac.

thanks grossgary. I shut it down when I saw how bad the leak had become. The estimate did at least include the O-rings. Am looking at my Haynes book now, trying to see how hard it is to get the timing covers off!

Thanks to both of you. Snowman, did you mean the valve cover gaskets? They should also be done, but the estimate did not include them. 555Ron, you've given me the courage to give it a try myself. I hope I have the proper tools. I wish shipping to Australia for cheaper rates was feasible!

For an interesting update on this topic: I got a repair estimate today from a mechanic who supposedly is a good one. To do crank and cam seals and replace belts and water pump is $655, without water pump is $563..

Thanks-- With the front end raised on the ramps I see the drip at the front lower valve cover, so I'm pretty sure it has to be in the front. As I watch I can see the oil travel down slightly ahead of the valve cover, then it runs onto and drips off the cover where cover meets the head. If the cam seal is the most likely leak in this location, that makes sense. Before the leak got this bad I was going along adding oil when it needed it, but now I can't take that chance since it suddenly got very bad. Ray Mac

1988 DL 4WD wagon. This is the vehicle I had bought for my daughter about a year ago when her '87 GL developed TOD and we feared the worst. However I fixed the '87 and kept this for myself. I was about to sell the '88 (have no need for 4WD where I live) when I found it had lost a pint of oil in about 20 miles-- I knew it was leaking and was watching it, was taking no long trips. With the the front up on ramps, I see a fast drip coming from front of driver side valve cover with engine idling. Wiping the area, I see the oil appears to be coming from the cam seal area, unless it's running down from higher up on the valve cover where I can't see it. I suspect the leak must get a lot worse when it's revved up more. Can I pin this down better without pulling the timing belt covers? I'm not up to tearing into it beyond trying to do valve cover gaskets, and will sell it as is if it's the cam seal or something else other than the valve cover gasket. Thanks, Ray Mac

LPG is not the same as natural gas that's piped in by large utilities. Natural gas is methane. Ray Mac.

I'm about 85 miles north of there, and have the space, but that's not much help. If it has current tags and the neighborhood is a safe one, couldn't it be rolled to where the landlord can't complain? It would still have to be moved every few days. Soobs are not that big around here like they are farther north or in the mountains. No snow or ice, no need for 4WD, so they're kinda scarce. Ray Mac

Where in N. California? Ray Mac

OK, thanks, I got it fixed with your help. Ray Mac.