
nickb21
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Everything posted by nickb21
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There definitely isn't enough of a leak to leave much (if any) fluid dripping on the floor. Which makes me wonder why they would make such a big deal out of it. They did say it would only leak when the system was running. zstalker: You hit the nail on the head. That is exactly what they are referring to. That does sound pretty crazy that what seems like a little piece of plastic would cost so much, but I'm not suprised. So I take it you would have to drop the pan to replace the harness if the plastic piece ends up breaking? Fun! I might just leave it for now, and keep an eye on the ATF level. Will replace it when I get some time. Thanks again for the help!! Cheers, Nick
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I've got the same tires on my '02 OBW. Looking for some replacements now.. they are just about worn out. I think they lasted 40-45k, but I forget!! I believe the spec is if the tire is out of size by more than 1/4" circumference you need to replace all 4. http://www.subaru.com/common/faq/tech_info.jsp#4 Is this auto or manual?
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I'm looking for new tires as well, wrong coast though... I'll mention upfront that we don't get too much snow here (only two or three times this past year) so I run all-seasons year round. If I lived in a more snowy place I would probably have winter snows. Currently running Yokohama Avid V4s, which are great grip wise, but I'm not thrilled with the wear. The Turanza Serenity's are in my list of top 3. Along with the Potenza G019 Grid (replaces G009) and the GoodYear Triple Tread. My local tire place is offering the TripleTreads for ~$105/tire, and there is a $40 rebate. I did a lot of reading and the TT's are recommended by a lot of folks. Plus the warranty is 80k miles. I think it's just personal pref. The Turanza's w/$75 rebate is a good deal. No decisive help here, just my thoughts..
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My sister had her 2000 Legacy L - 87k down at the dealer recently. They informed her that the Auto Trans was leaking ATF, but only when the system was on (under pressure). They said it was an "o-ring" where the "electronics wires" go in. To fix it would be ~$400. Anyone care to clue me in on what they are talking about? I can't see the cost being that much unless the have to drop the transmission... I haven't had a chance to look at the car yet myself. Thanks for the help. --Nick
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The plastic guard on my '02 obw is cracked a bit, so I zip tied it back together... My sis's '00 legacy didn't come with one. The only difference I noticed was that the plastic seems to protect the underside from moisture coming up off the driveway (parked). With the plastic I see a decent amount less rust. But then again, with all the salt they use up here, who knows!
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Got the car back, they were able to do all the work in one day. I forgot to ask if they pulled then engine or not... The ended up charging about 90 bucks to do the rear main and oil separator (apparently it's real name is PVC plate?). Total bill was right around 800. Ended up doing both HG's and a complete t-belt job. I'll post the complete list, just need to grab the bill - 4 pages! Parts and Labor are guaranteed for 1 yr/unlimited miles. One thing I did find out, which slipped my mind. The WWP99 recall only extends the HG warranty to 8 years/100k miles from the date the original owner took delivery!
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Correct, it has not had the HG's replaced. They did say that they would send the head out to a shop if it needed to be milled. I'll check on the warranty.. I'm hoping it's some kinda 1yr/10k mile deal. I guess since they will have the motor out I should do the rear-main and the separator plate as well. Two additional questions. Any reason to do the valve seals? And I will probably do the toothed idler (13085AA060 i think), but when looking up the part numbers, I came across a "crank pulley sprocket" (13021AA16A). Which is the right one to do? Thanks! I'll plan on updating this with the final rundown of parts, etc.
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Hiya all. Well, I have some bad news and some good news. My 2000 Lego (86k) had the WWP-99 Coolant Conditioner recall done a few months back, I was waiting for it to start leaking again before taking it in to have the HG replaced. Well, it looks like the weather has helped out. I started the car in the 9 degree weather this morn, walked inside real quick, and came out to a quick drip of coolant in the driveway. Sweet. Dealer has agreed to replace the driver HG. My question, he quoted me a price of $300 to do the pass HG (not currently leaking). Seems like a fair price - anyone think it's worth it? Not sure how likely the passenger gasket is to fail. I also plan on doing the t-belt, seals, water pump, tensioner, and oil pump, maybe the idlers. Cheers, Nick
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Ah, I assumed you were referring to the OEM filter. OEM back story: They use to have two different filters larger diameter NA filter and smaller diameter turbo filter. Must be around '04 that the dropped the larger NA filter and use the turbo filter for all (or most) motors. From what I've read they are pretty much equivalent. The smaller diameter OEM's have the same or more filter area. I'm guessing STP just kept up with both product lines. I think some other makes/models use these filters. Either filter will work fine for a NA car.
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Thanks Rob, good info. I'm guessing the re-use of the molding is up to the individual tech, since the Safelite place I called said they would definitely use an after-market replacement. I looked at my glass and it says "Pilkington". Seems good, no distortions that I notice. No noticeable wind noise. Cheers.
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I'm 99% sure that they now use an updated oil filter for the turbo and NA 2.5's from at least '00 to '08 (not sure about STI). You could always check with a dealer parts dept, some of them are helpful. Last time I got filters the part number ended in AA100. Couple related threads here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51957 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81690
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Finally had my windshield replaced last week. Guy was great, sat out there and chatted with him the whole time. Took about 45mins for the install. Sat for an hour after that and I was good to go. Apparently the new DOW sealant is very good. He does all the windshields for the local (Flemington, NJ) Subaru Dealer and one of the local Honda dealers. He works for the national chain "Novus". As mentioned I'm sure there are good/bad people working for any company. He re-used the existing gasket. I'll have to take some pix when I get a chance. AAA has a glass service, but the closest one is in Philly. Some relevant threads. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=75322 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=68930 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=47258 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1260 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=18600
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Just failed inspection for a cracked windshield, has a couple nice runs through it. I was curious about opinions on local v national glass shops. Also, what "molding" should be used. I have Diamond Auto Glass and Safelite Auto Glass that are nearby, also have a local shop who does the windshields for the Subaru dealer. All the prices are about the same ~$240. My bigger question is on moldings.. the places all quoted me a price on using a universal molding- if they don't re-use the original one. Any thoughts on this? Seems the OEM molding runs about $110... Cheers!
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The 15" wheels should fit. In mid-2001 or so they increased the brake size to compensate for the weight of these new models. I've heard a fair amount of people who get "warped" rotor, etc problems with the brakes on these. My suggestion is to use a decent quality rotor and pad. Congrats on the find! I'm jealous, mine doesn't have the cold weather package!! --Nick ('02 OBW)