nickb21

Yea, looked through car-part, it seems to only want to list 2000 as compatible. Different part numbers on opposed forces in 2001 as well. Friend of mine at a dealer printed me out the part list - looks like 1999-2000 (Or 2001) will 'officially' interchange. Need to read it closer. Front Passenger, bottom part of the coil. I'm interested, send me a PM. I'll be back online late this eve, or in the morning.

Hi All, I didn't get to do a lot of research before posting, forgive me. Scrambling to fix another problem. Just found a busted spring on my friends 2000 Legacy L - wohoo. I called a few junkyards and it looks like this year/model doesn't really interchange with later years. I thought that most of the BE/BH springs are compatible from various suspension threads. If I use the current top hats/struts, is there a reason why any 00-04 L/GT spring (left or right) won't fit properly? Thanks a ton!

Should be pretty easy for you to do. Two bolts hold the bracket onto the bumper frame. And then you may need to pull the plastic shroud off the back to access the electrical connector (been a while since I did work on mine). Hopefully yours are less rusted than mine, my bumper beam is a mess.

Yea that CL ad is for the regular 'green type' coolant. I believe the blue extended drain stuff has the words 'super' on the bottle. I wonder if the SOA stuff is pre-mixed 50/50? If it isn't that's probably a good price. IMO, changing the coolant on schedule is more important than the brand name. I've used the regular prestone stuff, and one of the peak types in the past.

Nice, thanks for the info on this recall, I would have never otherwise seen it. I have 2 out of 6 affected. Amusingly enough, the recalled ones are "Made in USA", the others I have that are ok are made in Canada...

Do you mean the new (2008-and up) "Super" Blue long life coolant? Or the regular stuff? I believe as long as it's a silicate free coolant it should pretty much be ok. Some interesting reading here, too bad the endwrench article isn't around anymore.. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=994313 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=29981772

Pretty neat, hopefully it is easier/better for the Admins to maintain. Would be nice to have some user-customizeable or selectable themes, or at least layouts. I'm not a huge fan of the waste of screen space with the huge avatar pics, and large header boxes and such.

Wow, thanks for the info, that is an awesome job on the repair. Seems like a good excuse for me to pickup a die grinder at Harbor Fright. I'll have to take a walk through a few of my local yards, and keep an eye out for folks parting out cars.

I will admit that I haven't done much body work, unless it could be done with a hammer and pop-rivets. Any suggestions on how (and how much) to cut out of a potential donor car to try and create a "patch" piece? Sawzall, torch? I should also find out how much this is gonna cost to cut/weld into place, might be more than the car is worth! Thanks!

I've always ended up using the OE filter, wasn't that much more and was more readily available for me. With that said, I don't see any problem using a WIX or Purolator (if they make one). Have you changed it before at all? I was surprise there isn't that much residual pressure in the fuel system even after waiting only 10-15 mins to pull the hoses. Couple dribbles of gas was about it. The real pain can be wrestling those hoses off the barbs on the filter, especially if they've been attached a while!

Those look right. It's almost the same (if not the same) price at my local NAPA for the V-powers. That is what I run in my '02 and haven't had any issue. I did try the G-powers (which are like a buck more each) out for 30 or 40k, and the were fine (supposedly you can go 60k between changes). But with plugs so easy to do, I just end up changing the V's every 30k give or take.

I had pretty good luck in a family car running Sylvania XtraVision's (9007XV2 or something like that). Good brightness and decent life, got at least 2-3 years out of them. Not sure off-hand if they make it in other sizes like H4. Upgrading the wiring and relays and running some of the "+" bulbs daniel stern offers would be a good idea, maybe just a hotter "high beam"? Are there any limits with the plastic headlight lenses we have?

Well that sucks. I just replace the front axle on my '02 and it only took a couple smacks with the 2lb hammer. :/ I would definitely be hesitant pulling the pinch bolt. Maybe it's easier to leave the pinch and pull the ball-joint out of the control arm (which I ended up doing anyway). If I recall correctly; I braced the control arm and used a small jack on a mostly loosened castle nut to pop the ball joint out..

Didn't have the time and tried to do a quick "clean" a few months ago, well that didn't go so well as you can see. I didn't realize this went that far back under the trim. Arggg!!! I was contemplating going to a body shop, thought it wouldn't be that much... Will keep an eye on this thread if anyone starts cutting sections from donors.

They definitely had these 'dust' deflectors available as a Subaru Accessory for the 00-04 wagons (in addition to the spoiler). I would imagine they had them for the previous gen as well. I have no idea how to tell if it is OE or aftermarket though...

Assume you mean an '04 Legacy Outback? Yes, they will fit. The offset will be a few mm different (outback offset is 48?), but I don't think that should be a worry. There is a good thread of all the wheel sizes, let me see if I can find it.

Yea, not sure there are a whole lot of options available to you. The 4 speed auto's are geared slightly differently and rev about 500rpm or so lower at similiar speeds. I believe you can swap the 6-speed in, but between the amount of work/$$ it would hardly be worth it - I don't know what the final drive would be in 6th, might not even rev much lower. Maybe you could crack the trans case and do some type of gear fabrication, but that is tons of work as well. What is your main reason to get the revs down; noise, mpg?

Maybe more tweaks to the newer FB motors? The FB20 with the CVT in the Impreza is EPA estimated at 30 combined, 27 cty/36 hwy. Which is leaps and bounds above the previous generations. Might be tricky keeping the price down by adding hybrid stuff into the equation, but I wouldn't be surprised for that to be an option.

Well, you guys are right, looks like they got rid of the pins - go figure. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/19489-front-axle-replacement-super-easy.html Check out post 2 and 10.

Wish I could tell you for sure, but my '02 still had roll pins, I would imagine newer ones still do. Hopefully someone else can verify. You may already know this, but there are 2 ways to pull the axle; you can pull the strut (mark camber bolt for alignment), or pull the ball-joint. I would suggest that if you're in a rust prone area (like me), don't pull the ball-joint. It can create quite a headache. What replacement axles are you using?

My '02 OBW is the same as yours. I guess we are the lucky ones that get to enjoy a few short, quiet dings, and then not have to be annoyed. I'm sure it changed at least in '05+ in US Legacy's/OB's.

Not to go too much off-topic, but for reference my 2002 OBW Manual states: Towing Vehicle with 4-wheels on the ground- Vehicles with Automatic Transmissions the traveling speed must be less than 20mph, and the distance less than 31 miles. [i think the general rule of thumb is don't do this regardless with an AT]. It does not give any speed or distance limits for a Manual Transmission (for 4 wheels down). Back on topic: I'm 1/2 surprised that the rear wheels actually locked up completely, I guess when the liquid in the viscous coupling gets hot enough it will basically seize. From reading the posts on this board there are two possible bad outcomes. 1) Liquid in the VC is "worn out" and will never really provide any "limited slip" between the front and rear. 2) Liquid in the VC is now a solid more or less, so when taking turns there won't be any give between the front and rear axles (eg. torque bind). I would argue there is still a good chance, that since you stopped almost immediately and let the VC cool down, you might have been able to save it, maybe just reducing the lifespan a bit. Is there a good way to diagnose while the motor is getting worked on other than to drive it?

To expand on some of the gas pedal 'pumping' thoughts... I could have sworn I read on this board (or another) that holding the gas pedal down when cranking on many (EFI) cars (including subaru), will tell the ECU not to pump in additional fuel during cranking. By cranking a few times before starting in combination with maybe the ECU detecting WOT when you crank - perhaps that is enough to clear out any fuel from a leaky injector? Maybe just holding down the pedal the 1st time while cranking would lead to a faster result? That is of course if the ECU does cut fuel.

Wow, the other sheared off while you were driving? Nice... I replaced a bunch (front and rear) on a 2000 Legacy that lived its early life in Binghamton, NY when i busted 'em pulling the lugs off with a breaker bar. Like what was previously said; pull the caliper/rotor, pound them out - the "spline" on the stud is only a 3/8" or so (suppose you could use 3-jaw puller if you were afraid of damaging the bearings), then pull the new ones in with a lug nut, I don't believe I used any washers. Good luck on the trip!!

And the new Outback is the size of an Explorer, ugh, don't get me started. The Impreza Sport (formerly Outback Sport) that I drove had seemingly the same room in the front seats. I only sat in the back briefly, but would say it's slightly smaller head/leg room wise (in hatch form). My biggest qualm was cargo capacity, still way smaller in the Impreza, but I suppose that's what the Forester is for... The smaller motor (2.0 I think), puts out good power (~145hp?) especially pared with the CVT (no 5spd on the lot to try). The 'Sport' only has maybe 1/4" or so higher ground clearance than the base Impreza - I guess that's where the XV fits in. I was starting to dig the 2-tone paint on the Sport trim.