nickb21

There are a few posts on here that mention that there was an update to the timing belt tensioner bracket. I did a little research and it seems that somewhere around Feb/March of 2004 a new bracket came out. (And a updated tensioner was introduced in April 2002). The explanation seems the be that the new bracket is designed to prevent the "knocking" noise. Does anyone actually replace the bracket when doing a t-belt service? There doesn't seem to be an actual TSB for it. I'm gathering parts for my t-belt work and was curious; my local dealer doesn't stock the bracket so I assume they don't change them unless a customer requests it. Thanks and cheers.

From FSM (2002 Impreza 2.5 SOHC): CAUTION: Use new cylinder head gaskets. Be careful not to scratch the mating surface of cylinder block and cylinder head. 2) Tighten the cylinder head bolts. (1) Apply a coat of engine oil to washers and bolt threads. (2) Tighten all bolts to 29 N.m (3.0 kgf-m, 22 ft- Ib) in alphabetical sequence. Then tighten all bolts to 69 N.m (7.0 kgf-m, 51 ft- Ib) in alphabetical sequence. (3) Back off all bolts by 180" first; back them off by 180" again. (4) Tighten the bolts (a) and ( to 34 N-m (3.5 kgf-m, 25 ft-lb). (5) Tighten the bolts ©, (d), (e) and (f) to 15 N.m (1.5 kgf-m, 11 ft-lb). (6) Tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical sequence. CAUTION: Do not tighten the bolts more than 90". (7) Further tighten all bolts by 80 to 90" in alphabetical sequence shown in the figure below. CAUTION: Ensure the total "re-tightening angle" [in the former two steps], do not exceed 180". Cheers! Edit: Funny.. If you do a google search for "S2M1589B" there are a couple sites with this section of the FSM PDF online.

I've been getting a pretty persistent p0420. Around the time the code came up I was experiencing what felt like a blocked cat - car wouldn't rev very high, was low on power, but then after a few moments of driving it felt like it would clear out. Hasn't happened in the past few months though. I've tried the spark plug anti-fouler trick and it sorta worked for a little bit (enough to pass inspection, lucky for me). I've read through a few threads on here, and it seems BOSAL is a decent aftermarket option. Before I go that route I'd like to try and find a cheap, used OE "mid-pipe" (not sure what it would be called) section with both cats and sensors. Any thoughts on what years would be compatible with my '02 OBW/2.5 SOHC (120k)? I looked at opposedforces.com and I'm thinking that at least any 00-04 legacy/ob, plus maybe 99-02/03 impreza/forester's with the sohc 2.5. I think the exhaust went through a pretty major change in '05. Thanks for the help!

Certainly try the test mentioned above to see if the clutch is slipping. I'm actually thinking that you have a CV boot that blew, and it threw grease onto part of the exhaust. My '02 obw had that happen around 110k and it did exactly what you described. --Nick

It's not too bad, the plugs are angled, and the openings are on the top of the valve cover. EDIT: Oh, and this is referring to a 00-04 legacy/outback. I assume others are similar, but not sure what stuff/plastic subaru might have moved/added. For the passenger side you'll want to pull the air intake snorkel/plastic, that'll give you plenty of room. Driver side I get away with just unbolting the washer tank and moving it out of the way. (Might need to unclip the wires for the washer pumps though, sedan has 1 motor, wagon has 2). (It's a bit tight, but not too bad. Some people will say to pull the battery, but I don't feel like going through that much effort.) I'm pretty sure I use just a long extension, and no u-joint. I like to use the sockets that have the rubber inserts for removal/insertion, and start threading the plug in by hand. Biggest pain sometimes is pulling the darn plug boots! (Here's hoping the gaskets are still good and you don't find a pool of oil in the plug well!)

You might also want to check the 2 universal joints on the steering linkage. I think you can tighten them with an allen wrench. I've got an '02 with a clunk as well and I think I narrowed it down to the front sway bar bushings. Try yanking on the bar in different directions and see if it makes any noise.

subarupartsforyou.com lists the OE cat at $800 (discounted), and an un-named aftermarket for $500. I'm in a similar boat. I'm considering getting a used cat with less than 80k, maybe I'll get lucky. I'm not 100% sure, but any 00-04 2.5L (4cyl, non-turbo) cat should fit, including legacy, outback, and impreza...

Thanks to all for the help and info, very much appreciated. Wasn't too too much of a pain, but I learned a few things. Cheers.

Thanks. Dangit, ah well, live and learn that you can get satisfaction even when things aren't black and white. At this point I may be asking for a few folks help on talking me through the HG work.

Awesome Dan, that is a huge relief, I completely thought I was going crazy. I always spotted the one sensor on the first cat and assumed it was the front (A/F). Turns out the one in plain view from under the hood was the rear (O2). Found both of them now, as you said, attached to the fore/aft of the first cat. Interesting how that isn't very well depicted in the manuals/parts books. (NJ is a CARB state.) One related question, and this has been brought up in other threads. Is it accurate to say that for at least 00-04, Cali or Fed, the O2 sensor ONLY monitors catalyst efficiency and does not affect fuel trim or anything else? Regardless, thanks again for the help, happy I got this sorted out!!

Unfortunately my VIN was not covered by the WWP-99 'hg' recall.. so an uphill battle either way..

Okay, so this is starting to bug me... I've checked out the parts diagrams and am a bit confused. Would anyone mind taking a quick pic of their O2 sensor (rear) and posting it? I am having a troubling time locating mine. Also, any easy way to trace the wiring for this? Where does it plug in and where would it join the rest of the harness? Pics would be great... 02 OBW 2.5.. so anything 00-04 I would imagine would be pretty close.. Very Very Much Appreciated!! Cheers.

Well, nice to have others in that boat with me.... (02 OBW, built 2/02). 114k. Been lightly leaking coolant for about 20-30k probably. In the past 20k i've started leaking oil as well from the HG's. Gotten a bit worse in the last 5k or so, both sides, worse on the passenger side. I can now smell burning oil when I stop. We'll see how much longer I can milk it, have a case in review with SOA as this should not be happening.... Seems like it leaks the worst when I put fresh oil in (using 10w30), and then it eases up a bit. Good luck...

I'm pretty sure the book says 58 to 72 ft-lbs. I torque mine ('02 obw) to about 65-67.

00-04 hoods should interchange with your 02 OB. I believe the legacy l/gt hoods are the same as well. There are no scoops on any 00-04 USDM legacy/outbacks. However, outside the US market at least the Legacy GT-B's of these years had scoops. Hood scoops stopped in 99, and then restarted on the turbo outback/legacy's from 05-up.

That's my understanding too Dave. There is a front diff for the front wheels and at the back of the transmission there is another (probably smaller) diff that is coupled to the viscous unit. This would allow 50/50 front/back split normally and then when a speed difference occurs the viscous unit would 'lock up'. There is a great generic diagram/explanation out there somewhere.. but I can't find the link to it off-hand. Not exactly what I was looking for, but pretty neat: http://www.awd.ee/cars.html

Someone on this board, (I think), had an '01 or so OB (with a super nice tube front bumper), was able to use 15" rims, but had to shave some metal off the calipers. Only problem there is that I'm not sure if he had the ~10.9" rotors or the ~11.5"(WRX)...

Highly doubtful they will fit. Although it is mentioned that *some* 15" rims would fit, think you have the right ones? http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1265631 If I am not mistaken, an easy test would be to try to put the 15" rims onto your '02 OB, my understanding is that they are the same front calipers/rotors (as that year WRX). Cheers.

No parking lamp switch? Did they go lights that stay on even when the key isn't in the ignition? Also, anyone notice the lack of a temp gauge? I'm hoping that there is an instrument cluster option....

Yea, just saw the 2010 OB on Autoblog yesterday. http://www.autoblog.com/2009/04/09/new-york-2010-subaru-outback-has-its-muklucks-on/ I'm trying to get into NYC to see in person, hopefully will either go tomorrow or next Sat. I like the wagon backside much better than the legacy sedan trunk. But it'll take a bit for the front end/grille to grow on me. Looks much bigger than the outgoing model, even though it's only 2 inches wider. I'm sure I'll smack myself in the head a couple times if I ever pick one up with framed doors... hehe. Finally a 6 speed though!!

Sounds like maybe ABS or fuel pump. Did you try to pull the ABS fuse(s)? I would imagine that you could pull the fuel pump fuse as well while the car is running, it should run for at least a second or two... maybe...

Awesome, thanks for the info!

This is a great thread, very helpful as I'm about to tackle my 02 TB. Two questions regarding the tensioner... As I understand it, post-97 you need to use the "new" syle tensioner, unless you use the bracket for the older one. I will assume this is true for 2000+? Like others I'll use a mix of OE and ebay parts. My tensioner has acted up in the past, so I will replace it. Any issues with the tensioner in the ebay kits, any particular brand to look for?

I can't tell what year that is from the pics. But it was my understanding that USMY2005+ the filter was in-tank (and they removed the one from under-hood). I'll let someone else answer the "which door" question.. EDIT: Maybe this helps? http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/fuel_filter_replacement-t3645.html

Correct. The NS doesn't have friction modifiers, so it's suppose to be better for synchro operation. Out of curiosity, what year is this going in?