nickb21

N/M = nevermind According to cars101.com; the '00 OBW LTD is 290 lbs heavier than your '91 LS. (non-LTD is 205 lbs heavier) I'd say that is the main reason it feels/is slower. The '00's 2.5 only puts out 35 more HP, I don't think that's quite enough to compensate for the weight.

Finally remembered where I bookmarked these. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1721 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=673117 Too bad they don't make those rally light bars for Legacy/OB's, like they do for the Imps.

Some info from cars101.com: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/outback/outback2003.html

This should help. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=62375

My '02 OB "honks" when the audible keyless thing is enabled. I had thought at some point 2003/04? They changed the "honk" to a "chirp" via some other device. Piezo buzzer? I'm not sure how the chirp device is hooked up, but you can buy varying types/frequency's of those.

I saw someone who mounted them to the upper radiator mounts with some metal and kinda poked them through the grill. Pretty sure it was a 3rd gen OB. Looked nice and clean though, hopefully they didn't shake too much.

Well that sucks, hope everyone is okay. Craigslist maybe? http://newjersey.craigslist.org/car/ I'll keep an eye out, but I don't recall seeing any lately.

Very cool. How tricky/expensive is this? I'd love to have heated side-view mirrors on my '02OB.

I guess the real question is do you want all-seasons, or will you be using dedicated snows? Best bang for the buck, I think, are the BFG Traction T/A's. I'm currently using some Yokohama Avid V4's that I'm happy with as well. They're both okay in the snow, but not nearly as good as dedicated snows.

Before I got directional tires I rotated them like you would for RWD cars. Backs go straight to front, fronts cross to back. Seemed to work well, no issues that I can recall.

I'll second the V-grooves, they seem to work well so far. I've also used the G-power's (G-something at least), which are platinum plugs, and they're good as well. The G's were less than a dollar more a piece than the V's. Good luck, just be careful not to cross-thread them.

The timing belt should be good for 105k, at least that's what I've read for the 2.5SOHC motors. What does the 30k service include? For my 60k I did (off the top of my head): Front/Read diff oil change. Plugs Air/Fuel Filter PCV Flush Brake Fluid Coolant Flush (new rad cap, tstat, hoses) Belts and wires would be good preventative maint. (I'm doing mine at 75k). If there aren't any drivibility issues, I don't see the need to do a throttle body service. If you want just run a bottle of techron through the fuel system.

Awesome, thanks. While I'm at it, maybe I'll get the brake ones too. I was considering using a mityvac, but thought I read that it wasn't a good idea.. So instead I'll use a speedbleeder. No going overboard this time around!

I decided that I needed to bleed my clutch ('02 OBW), the fluid was pretty dark, and it got very stiff when the temp was below freezing. I found this thread which helped a lot. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41393 Couple questions; -What size is the bleeder? I was thinking about picking up a speed bleeder to make things easier. -I started to "two person" bleed, and i loosened the bleeder as my friend was pushing down on the clutch. Before the clutch hit bottom I closed the bleeder, but the clutch didn't return to the regular height without being pumped a bunch... Is that normal? -Can I use a hand-mityvac to vacuum bleed? I think I saw somewhere on this board that it wasn't a good idea. Thanks for the help!

This should help. http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=16 Interesting that they changed the PCV valve in either 2001 or 2002 (part # and location).

I'm not sure.. but on my old nissan the inside of the 'inner tie-rods' had like a 1inch square section where you could put a combination wrench... Out of curiosity, why the new steering gear?

Welcome! What part of NJ? Your 2000 should be SOHC. You can look at the black plastic timing belt cover in front of the engine, it should have one circle on the left and one on the right side. Is it an orange color stuff? I've had the same thing, I think it's just crud that's precipitated out of the antifreeze. Probably would be a good idea to do a coolant change and clean everything out. Do you know if any maintenance was done at all? (Never too soon for filters and fluid changes). Only thing to watch out for is an external headgasket leak (driver side usually), but there is an extended warranty to 100k (search for WP99 recall, I think).

Well if it's anything like my '02 outback you'll definitely hear a whirring/grinding noise as the ABS kicks in. And also feel some pedal vibration, no light though. I'm guessing you just haven't been braking hard enough. I've only had mine kick in a couple times during very heavy braking in the rain. Now snow on the other hand...

For some reason 67.5 ft-lb's comes to mind as an avg. Craig's range seems about right. Do you have any penetrating oil on the threads or anything? Tighten them in a star pattern? Sounds pretty odd... maybe your wheels are allergic to your hubs.

Found this on NASIOC... hope this is the right place for it. http://www.phillyscca.com/club_racing/flyers/2006/PDX_flyer.html Looks pretty cool, not sure how well my OBW would do, but maybe one day I'll have an impreza Anyone from here going?

Car definitely starts in gear, as long as the clutch is pushed in. I didn't even think of it, but I bet it causes the cruise to turn off if it's bumped out of gear. Reason I ask is that the casing with those wires had a bit of damage, fixed it, but just wanted to make sure nothing bad would happen just in case. Cheers.

Hmm. I'm a bit nervous about taking my new all-season's into any terrain with sharp rocks.. Works out well in this case that you can use 15" wheels. '01 and up (i believe) have the bigger calipers and need min. of 16".

Yep she's almost as good as new now. Out of curiosity, what does the neutral switch do?

Any of those spots sound pretty cool, and it gives me over a month to get my shake fixed for long highway use!

I'll try to keep this story short. I left my '02 OBW ~75k in the driveway for about a week, running fine. I head to work this morn and I hear a knocking noise, kinda like when a stone is stuck in the tire as I drive down the road (but a little more metallic now that I think about it). I figure it'll work itself out. Well I hit about 40 going downhill and as I slow to a stop, it works itself out. CEL comes on, car is running fine though. I get on the highway and I notice no speedometer and no odometer. Sweet! I look later and the three wires for my VSS have all been cut near the main harness. One of the other cable casings has been chewed up pretty bad. I taped 'em back together for now, will have to find some solderless crimp fittings. Interestingly enough, with no VSS the engine won't rev past 4500rpm (hits the fule or rev cut). And the revs seem to "hang" when shifting. Looked on the street, but couldn't find the culprit.. must have wrapped something around the axle... I guess. (Unless I'm missing a part now! ) One question, on the driver side of the trans (MT) there are two plugs, I assume one is for the reverse light switch. What's the other for?