nickb21
-
Posts
552 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by nickb21
-
I've found that checking that auto-trans fluid in these is a bit tricky and can give false readings. Make sure you're following the correct procedure. The front diff dipstick is located in the passenger side, pretty much under the airbox. Smallish yellow round handle that is a pain to get to.
-
I did a quick search, and found a possible explanation. I don't believe we ever got this button in the US (maybe some SVX's and 1st gen Legacies?). Copy and paste from: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f89/hold-switch-whats-2064/ It stops automatic use of 1st gear, more or less. I think it also alters the shift points to upshift at lower revs than usual (opposite of Power button). It's mainly intended to reduce wheelspin on snow. Specifically, with HOLD turned on: In D, the car will move off in 2nd gear and change up to 3rd and 4th as soon as it can. In 3, the car will move off in 2nd gear and change up to 3rd as soon as it can. In 2, the car will use 2nd gear only. In 1, the car will use 1st gear only. Allegedly, using Hold also makes the centre transfer clutch lock up sooner/harder.
-
Welcome aboard! IANACT (I am not a clutch torturer), and have only driven an STI a handful of times. I would imagine you're gonna have to get the rev's up there, maybe closer to 5k and then dump it. Or maybe mash the throttle and quickly slip the clutch at the same time from 3-4k. Let us know what you get to work. Those summer tires are pretty grippy if I recall correctly.
-
Mileage? Like Caboo said, you can easily fry your catalytic converter by driving it around with a flashing CEL (probably other bad stuff as well). If the wires haven't been replaced I would do that first thing. OEM (or NGK) brands only. Also see what the codes stored from the CEL are - probably a specific cylinder misfire. Do a little searching around the board - you can also diagnose misfires (caused by wires/coil pack) when it's a bit dark out by misting some water around the engine bay near the wires and coil pack.
-
Hmm. You know, I just saw the box with the extra 1 in it the other day. No idea where I put it though. I believe I used the same part that goes on the front calipers. (Googled some other posts + their site to get that part number). If I run into it I'll post it. Edit: Hah! http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/59010-bleeding-clutch-speed-bleeders/ I ordered mine from a local 'performance' parts store, was the same price as getting it through the speed bleeder site and easier for me to deal with.
-
Very cool! It's really too bad it doesn't match the dash color, but oh well. Good point, forgot about all those crazy airbags on these 'new' cars.
-
You don't need it, but I invested in a cheap set of trim removal tools (from Harbor Fright). They're made out of some kinda plastic so you don't mar the trim, think they were like 5 bucks.
-
Maybe some Outback, Baja, or King springs, if you can find a deal on them.
-
I was looking into that FreeSSM app a little while back and it looks pretty cool. Like you said though, hasn't been updated in a while. It does say it supports up to MY2009, so it should work fine, I would think. Plus you already have that cable (so no additional cost). There is a long thread about FreeSSM on another forum - subaruoutback.org I think. Edit: thread: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/39426-freessm-complete-access-your-ecm-tcu.html Looks like your '98 might fall short for that program.
-
I'm sure you could. I would throw out a guess that the cost of the compressor + HC-12 fill (or whatever refrigerant they use), would be about the same as the conversion.
-
Definitely time for a new slave + hose. I would wager that once it starts warming up, the problem will get a lot worse (at least that's what happened to me). Summer heat + traffic was real bad news. I never really had any issues bleeding the slave, not sure what all the fuss is about. I made it easier on myself the 2nd time around and stuck a speed-bleeder on it. Top off reservoir. Hose on bleed nipple. Open bleeder, push and hold clutch to floor, close bleeder. Repeat.
-
Hah! I was not sure what I was in for when I opened this thread. I would say ammeter as well, see what that alternator is up to (or not up to). Oil temp could be neat, but helpful? Maybe something AT related? Mount an anemometer? BTW- Is this an A-pillar pod? I'm thinking pics will need to be shared, and soon.
-
I did the exact same thing to my '02 using an inverter. It was a while back, but I do not recall having to pull the whole dash apart. In fact, I believe you can get the lighter socket out just by pulling the ash tray, shifter surround, and HVAC/radio surround. I just used a light gauge wire to 're-jumper' the back of the socket. I run my compressor directly off the battery (clamps) and the inverter has a dedicated fused line running from the batt. as well.
-
Ah cool, missed the MY's in the attachment. Kinda forgot manufacturers use these TSBs for change 'communication' to dealers, etc., not just problems. Thanks again for the info!
-
Two additional things also come to mind; 05-09 Outbacks gained, what, 1, 1.5" of lift compared to the 00-04's. In addition they lost at least 100lbs (more depending on trim+options), which could be a reason for the shock change. Depending on mileage, strut change could be a great 'upgrade'. You'll want to look at 2002.5-04 parts, there was a change mid 2002. The 2002.5-04 are cheaper and very similar. (sorry to cross-forum post, but check this FAQ- http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/28368-2005-2009-outback-suspension-faq.html ) Sway bars (at least upgrading the rear bar) will help a noticeable amount. Baja springs are cool, don't get me wrong; but I think that's the wrong direction... Edit: link
-
As long as the hose from the radiator to the overflow tank is not full of holes, one end is securely attached to the radiator nipple, and the other end is in coolant in the tank it is "vacuum tight" (ie. would normally draw coolant back in). The overflow tank itself is not air tight, and doesn't need to be. Could you clarify why you mean by: "The car runs fine other than not draining so I have to empty it out manually after a long drive and top the system off." I'm a bit confused. Is the overflow tank filled with coolant between the markings? I usually check when it's hot - upper line.
-
But just think of how nice and shiny and clean those new $700 units will look, hah! Did the TSB specify any VIN ranges or build dates? Was this to fix a specific issue, or just for 'serviceability'?
-
1- I think I saw someone comment on this board that you could basically run r134a in a r12 system with very few changes. (Hopefully someone can chime in to that effect). You should be able to fairly easily change the High/Low fittings, since they're different sizes. 2- Even so, if you don't mind getting a bit dirty - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/2138-legacy-ac-conversion-r12-to-r134a/ Just need to buy or have a shop pull a vacuum on the system. Edit: Changed link to Legacy777 USMB write-up post.
-
Excellent info, thanks! Did you end up doing the heater hoses? I usually park on a slight uphill, fill the radiator, then fill the block using the upper rad hose (full as possible before connecting it) and haven't had a problem.
-
Timing belt is required at 105k miles OR 105 months. Definitely something you need to verify ASAP and get taken care of if need be. That's really the big one, everything else can be done as you get around to it. Do you have the owners manual? If not you can find the maintenance schedule here: http://www.cars101.com/subaru/subaru_maintenance.html
-
Congrats on moving up to the 'new gen'! I think the first thing we need to do is figure out some of that service history. Timing belt most importantly, which should have been done at about 105k. In addition it would probably be worthwhile to do plugs/wires at that mileage if they haven't already been done. If the CEL has come on since then and gone off, find someone with a code reader, or a parts store that will scan if for free. Even with the light off the code should still be in memory. (I'll try not to comment too much on the dealers behavior, oops). Clunks may just be suspension related, I'm sure others will chime in.
-
I'm guessing by 'Outback the shorter car', you mean an Outback Sport (aka Impreza Outback)? Which would be a substantial difference. The TripleTreads are decent tires, I ran them a few years ago. IMO you really don't need anything 'higher performance'. How many miles? If over 100k look into new struts like Fairtax said. Depending on how aggressive your friend wants to get, you can swap on Legacy struts/springs (lowers the car a bit). Front/Rear sway bars will also flatten things out a bit, check out Whiteline (not sure if Rallitek still makes bars for that gen). I think there is a pretty good suspension FAQ/Sticky over at subaruoutback.org - but I feel like most of it is geared to lifting.
-
Welcome aboard, and congrats! I've never had a vehicle extended warranty, so I'm not much help there. I will ask; do you know what the ext. warranty covers (fine print)? 900$ is a lot for an extra 10/20k miles, let's be real, most people I know hit the mileages way before the dates. In addition to the 5/60k powertrain warranty, I believe you get a 8year/80k mile warranty for the emissions system (not sure on the fine print there either though). I'm sure you'll get lots of feedback!
-
Hmm, I was under some delusion that the OE exhaust was stainless, or something similarly corrosion resistant. Guess that doesn't make sense thinking about it. I've used VHT caliper paint (900 deg, I think) on brake rotors (keep the hats/backs from rusting), and am happy with it. Although the paint is now covered in brake dust (but no rust!). I'm planning on using some leftover wood stove paint (Thermolux - 1200 degF) on part of an exhaust I picked up from NC that I'm cleaning up. We'll see how well that works.
-
ABS fuses I believe are only under the dash. Look for #18 (10A - cruise & abs control) and #19 (20A - abs solenoid). Scary brakes? That's no good. Do you think it's just the ABS kicking on constantly? The brakes should work totally fine with ABS disabled. Possibly another strut change related issue there? Definitely double check those rear struts and fasteners.
