skingry
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Everything posted by skingry
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Yeah, got it fixed. The side pipe was full of carbon and were the manifold passages. Fashioned a brush from a piece of steel cable and a long slender spring (sort of like a pipe snake). Cleaned out the passages and the pipe, engine full out stalled when I manually applied vacuum. A can of the spray Seafoam helps too (the one with the long squirt tube). You need to double check that the engine doesn't have a side pipe... and probably clean out the manifold passages. On a side note, I also replaced all of the hoses with new silicone ones when I bought the car. Parts were less than $30. Do one at a time, and follow the vacuum diagram on the underside of the hood, use logic, go slow, you'll be fine.
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GD, you're a life saver. Vice grips and a hammer and the pipe came right off. I've managed to get the EGR pipe cleaned out (it was really clogged up), and I'm pretty sure the passage is clean in the head (sprayed some aerosol Seafoam into the hole and it drained down quickly). However I am not sure the passages are clean in the intake manifold (the car still doesn't stumble or stall when I manually apply vacuum to the EGR valve). The best I could do was squirt some of the Seafoam into the passages and hope it was cleaned out. Is there some sort of cleaner that does a better job than others at liquifying carbon? Oven cleaner? Also, when vacuum is applied to the EGR valve, is it normal that the only thing that moves is the center post (and there by the actual passage that exhaust flows through is small)?
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Yeah, double and triple checked my timing. Set at 8 degrees BTDC (was at 25 degrees BTDC when I got it, how it even ran, I have no idea). The timing is verified during smog here in CA (the tech pulled out a timing light, had a little bit of trouble finding the timing marks, but I showed him how they are on the flywheel on older Subarus). The car doesn't even have a drop in RPM when I manually apply vacuum to the EGR valve at idle (even after I cleaned it and verified it's operation), so I definitely know something is up with the system.
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I think I may have solved my own problem. What do you guys think: a piece of steel cable with some short pieces of copper filament soldered on the end to make a bit of a brush. Put the non-brush end of the cable in a drill and then feed the brush end down into the EGR pipe. Leave the valve off, blip the engine a couple of times to blow the carbon bits out. With that said... does anyone have a spare EGR pipe on hand they would sell me if I decide to go medieval with a hack saw, a 17mm socket, and a torch?
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So, I've failed smog twice... and I'm getting frustrated. Some background: Car: 83 GL, EA81 w/ ~343k miles, California model, Hitachi feedback carb (can't replace it with a Weber, because I live in California ), all new vacuum hoses, new plugs, new wires, new cap, new rotor, new CARB spec catalytic converter, new Denso O2 sensor. De-carboned the engine with plenty of distilled water trickled into the intake... So here are the results (top line is 15mph, bottom line is 25mph): First test: HC: MAX - 152, MEAS - 15 MAX - 123, MEAS - 9 CO: MAX - 1.05, MEAS - 0.12 MAX - 0.85, MEAS - 0.12 NO: MAX - 1191, MEAS - 1690 MAX - 1021, MEAS - 2181 Second test: HC: MAX - 152, MEAS - 0 MAX - 123, MEAS - 0 CO: MAX - 1.05, MEAS - 0.11 MAX - 0.85, MEAS - 0.10 NO: MAX - 1191, MEAS - 2624 MAX - 1021, MEAS - 2401 All sources point to the EGR (or at least to me... if something else stand outs, let me know). So, I pulled the valve and cleaned it out with a dental pick and some B-12. The diaphragm is good and holds vacuum. Now, when I manually apply vacuum to valve, the engine does nothing. No stumble, no stall, no nothing. This leaves the EGR pipe, but that SOB is a PITA and doesn't want to budge (not to mention my busted knuckles). Any pointers removing it... or maybe cleaning it in place (pipe cleaner)?
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I used to live in a high crime area in Atlanta where this sort of thing would happen on the regular. Any locking cap will work, all you have to do is make your car one iota more difficult than the next car that doesn't have a locking cap. Trust me, thieves are the lazy... if they weren't they'd get what they wanted in an honest fashion.
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New washer pump and spark plug wires. Easy morning.
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Sweet sunroof.
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EA82 Overheating, have done LOTS with zero results
skingry replied to suprunner's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
A visual inspection of the tops of the pistons (with the spark plugs removed) will tell you if you have a bad head gasket (a clean piston top is indicative of water making it's way into the cylinder). When you had the flush and fill, did the mechanic back flush the radiator (ie. run hot water through it backwards)? I've had many a radiator and heater core that have been clogged with multiple years worth of sediment that have been fixed by back flushing. -
Replaced the oil pump... and snapped a bolt. My heart skipped a beat, but luckily it was easy to remove the pieces. Quick run to the HW store to grab some new 8.9 grade bolts, and the new pump slid right in. But then... didn't realize you have to prime an oil pump (nothing in the Haynes or FSM ) Figured it out real quick (under 30 seconds) when I started the car and the oil pressure sat at zero. Pulled the pump, filled the new filter with oil, made an oil bath and submerged the pump, primed it, and then reinstalled it all. Not a fun work day. Too much stress.
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Fourth pic shows the air suction valve, in spite of what you may read on the board this is integral to keeping your car running well unless it has modern catalytic converters installed.
Fifth and final pic shows the original vacuum layout, this thing is pretty far from accurate for my car, but then again my car has had the hood replaced (and the diagram is on the hood).
Let me know your email address and I'll email you the pages from the FSM with further details.
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Sorry it took me so long, but here is the link to the photo album: http://imgur.com/a/9Xx7f#0
The first pic (Throttle Plate), show three lines. The black one on the right eventually feeds to the EGR valve, the red one feeds to the distributor vacuum port, and the blue one eventually leads to vacuum switch II.
The second pic shows the duty solenoids (they control the air fuel mix via bleeds), along with the surge tank and aux air filter. All of this stuff is pretty important if your car has it (only 2wd and California models do).
The third pic shows a detail of the vacuum switches, again, pretty important stuff for emissions if your car has it.
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The Awesome Older Generation Picture Thread
skingry replied to 6 Star's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's for A/C or transmission oil cooler. -
Yeah, you could cut the lines, or just leave them hooked up. What I did was feed the vacuum advance from the distributor directly to one of the vacuum ports at the throttle plate on the carb, then did the same thing for the EGR valve, teeing off of this line as well to supply vacuum to the vapor canister control valve. I'll try and get some photos snapped for you tomorrow to explain better, and send you copies of the pages from the FSM.
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I'd check the wires with a meter, just because you are seeing spark when the plug is out of the head doesn't mean it's giving spark when the piston is up and compression is barreling down on the plug (it's a whole different world under compression). I pulled these values from the "How to Keep Your Subaru Alive" book that tboned linked me to: OHC models: The resistance for the coil and spark plug wires should be within the following values: SPFI Coil Wire - 2.43k-5.67k Wire #1 - 8.38k-19.56k Wire #2 - 2.99k-6.97k Wire #3 -7.90k-18.44k Wire #4 - 2.41k-5.62k
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While replacing vacuum lines this afternoon, I noticed that the vacuum line from "Vacuum Switch I*" had a tee in it, with one end of the tee going to the normal spot (manifold vacuum), but the other end of the tee went to a bit of a nipple on the firewall. When I pulled the hose for that section (tee to firewall), there was a touch of motor oil in the line (just that section though, none in the longer section, ie. manifold to vacuum switch). I don't see any tee for that vacuum line in the schematic in the FSM, so I left it disconnected (ie. I just ran the new line directly from the manifold to the switch, leaving out the tee and the section going to the nipple on the firewall). Question is, does anyone else have a tee in that vacuum line? Also, any ideas what needs manifold vaccum on the other side of the firewall (heating/AC controls? But what about the oil I saw?) * ie. the vacuum switch in the upper left side of the engine bay, closest to you when you are at the nose of the car facing the windshield). I can post photos if you need visual details.
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Can you identify this part?
skingry replied to thedoctor's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's the "Thermo Vacuum Valve I"... it's used to reroute throttle plate vacuum that normally goes to the distributor, EGR valve, and vapor canister to the air cleaner (ie. the valve modulates the vacuum pressure between manifold levels and atmosphere levels when it's activated). The valve is only activated when the coolant is between a certain temperature range (which I think is something like 58F to 98F)... so, it's pretty much useless, because the amount of time your engine coolant is normally going be in that range is probably between 30 seconds and 2 minutes (depending on ambient temp). I've bypassed it all together on my CA setup EA81. PM me if you want a copy of the pages from the FSM outlining it (if you're super curious and dying to look at vacuum schematics). -
It pipes exhaust back into the manifold via a vacuum operated valve (a little goes to each cylinder when the valve is open). Lowering the combustion temps keeps your NOx emissions in check.
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...called your high mileage Sooby "junky", "smelly", or even a "death trap"? I personally shrug it off telling them I got a car that starts every morning and takes me to work, all the while getting 27+MPG, for less than some people's car payment (I'm in SF, people here buy BMW 7-series on credit... ) Add to this, I get one of the most solidly built 4wd systems out there, that can show a CR-V or RAV-4 what for any day of the week.
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Took a look under the valve covers... I really shouldn't have. Now my OCD is flaring up. ...I'll be Seafoaming the inside of the engine this week. Probably twice.
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Works pretty good... re: hydrolock - use the idle adjust to spin the engine up around 2.5k and then use the squirt bottle to squirt a little water into the carb, the rpm's drop, wait until they come back up, repeat. Took me about 20 minutes.
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Decarbonized the engine using distilled water and a squirt bottle (about 3 cups through the engine). Throttle response is nice and smooth up to 4k on the tach now. Bought a dwell meter and set the idle mixture "by the book". Next up: timing and a new oil pump.
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Some background: Picked up a '83 GL with ~343k miles, has a slight oil leak (probably less than a quart between changes). Doesn't burn oil, pressure washed the engine and engine bay, spotted a small leak between the pump and the block. Researched the forum and saw that this is common. In addition, it is common that the oil pumps are trashed on high mileage engines, so it's better to just put a new one in. Grabbed a NOS oil pump off of eBay for $40, it was mislabeled as a pump for a 1300cc engine... pics matched one for an EA81, so I bought it Anyhow, getting to the point, do I need to use RTV or any type of sealant on the gasket when I install the new pump (High-Temp Permatex maybe)? I checked the Haynes and FSM, nothing in either of them say anything. Just thought I'd check with you guys, as you've probably done this 10,000 times between all of you.
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1. New vacuum hoses (half way there...) 2. Pressure washed the engine (getting it ready to replace the oil pump).
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Just picked up a '83 GL with 342k miles. Here's a list of things I've done in the last two weeks. 1. Tapped and installed a spark plug hole insert on the #4 cylinder. Blew the old insert (it was the wrong size) and plug out of the head while driving back from grabbing a donut and coffee... 2. New spark plugs installed w/ anti-seize compound (NGK Copper). Torqued to spec. Not going to risk another blow out. 3. New parking and turn signal bulbs up front (had moss growing in the housings) 4. New battery cables (the battery to engine ground crumbled when I took it out). 5. New starter contacts and plunger. 6. Capped a few errant vacuum openings (with vacuum caps... no hose and bolt crap). 7. Replaced a few loose and degrading vacuum hoses (like manifold to distributor). 8. Went to town with nail polish (that I found in the engine bay while fixing the starter) painting over some rusty spots on the car.