NorthWet

Midwst, I posted on your tranny wanted thread before I checked this thread. I am pretty sure that I was told that 90-96 4EATs would all work, but it was possible that in the context it was assumed that I might need to change the rear diff (I don't remember this being discussed, but that doesn't mean much ).

I have a Datsun R160, bolt-on U-joint flanges, sitting on the ground here. It growls badly (suspected side bearings, replaced it with an R180 ), but useful for experimenting.

For EA82: 3.3-4.0 ft-lbs Oil-pan a(and ATF-pan) bolts should not be tightened much more than "snug", as they will warp the pan flange and squish out the gasket. and SNAP the bolts...

AFAIK, you can't get a set of the control arm inner bushings (other end of the control arm from the balljoints), though C/S/K and similar autoparts stores might try to sell you ones for an EA81. Definitely replace the leading rod/strut bushings. Gets rid of all sorts of nasty behavior. 19mm nut on the end back near the footwells, 14 mm nuts&bolts holding it to the control arm (or pull the control arm if nuts won't budge), slap the new ones on, and bolt it back up.

Sorry, missed the "canuckland" and your need for metricality. Let's see... 400mm = 15.650in I guess my parallaxed measurement was a little out of specified tolerance. *edit - Wait a minute... lbs... mm.. mixed measurements? Is your proximity to the the US of A confusing your measurements? 20.45Kg - end edit*

Messing with the pinion can put you in a world of hurt. Listen to what blackbart said. It is not worth it. Much better to mask of the areas that you are concerned about.

PM'd you. Country living is nice... until you got to find a Subaru dealer or a locksmith.

And the reason you can't transplant the bolt-on u-joint stubs is...? The stubs in Datsuns swap back and forth without much difficulty.

I wonder whether the mechanic got things a little backwards. I wonder if he checked/adjusted the timing while the green plugs were disconnected, then reconnected them to send you on your way. If this were the case, you probably had close-to-correct timing when you drove in and messed up timing when you left. Otherwise, the first things I would check are tune-up stuff: New plugs and wires, TIMING , fuel filter... that kind of stuff. I realize that you probagbly took care of this stuff before emissions testing, but thought that I should mention it anyways.

I totally agree. I should have clarified my post, saying that I unbolt the compressor and bracket as an assembly.

RE: Hard to remove - On my engines, they are picky as to what socket I use. Too thick of wall on the socket and it rubs against the surrounding casting, making it seem like the spark plug is sticking. My engines are MPFI (dualport intake) so the casting, and thus the clearances, MAY be different. But it is still something to check before you waste 2 days trying to remove them. *edit - Also, if it moves a little and then sticks, make sure that you tighten the plug (or bolt), and then loosen again. A spray of penetrant before retightening won't hurt, either. - end edit *

Always happy to give back!

The coolant temperature is a critical aspect of emissions control, so I doubt that Subaru would sell a lower-temp thermostat for someone with an EA82... could get them in some trouble. (Personally, I do not agree with those that promote lower-temp thermostats, so please feel free to disregard my views on the matter. ) My '85 FSM specs the thermoswitch as having a switch range of 199-207 degF.

3rd vote for just unbolting the compressor mount and moving it aside. Re: HG makers - At least on the Old-Gen side, there seems to be a concern over using FelPro (again, this is on the EA82s), and a general preference for Subaru OE headgaskets.

My 82 had a sound that was vaguely like a card in the spokes of a bike. I thought it was wheel bearing, tore it apart and bearing was fine. Replacement arm and bearing (I was impatient) made same noise. Made that noise even with both rear axle shafts completely removed. I still do not know what it was.

I doubt that you will find chips. The thing I would be concerned about (just from my Datsun experience... same diff) is too much strain on the bearings, particularly the side bearings that support the ring/diff-carrier/stub-axles. These can growl quite a bit if abused, but they can also be changed fairly easily. I found it easier just to replace the diff in my Datsun. Off-roaders/rock-crawlers talk about snapped stub-axles more than blown up ring-and-pinions.

Flywheel-to-crank: 30-33 ft-lbs. Clutch-cover-to-flywheel: 10.5-12.7 ft-lbs

Be careful of your assumptions. Like subyluvr2212 said, it is likely that the seal between the trans and diff sections failed. This is VERY common on the automatics.

Yep, what he said. I have done that too many times. Just make sure that the battery is out of the way. Try to be a little gentle with it. Does this mean that you got the Loyale???

A "Datsun" LSD is not a practical way to go, as NISMO is pretty much the only source (and wants more than your Brat's market value for it ), and we Datsun people have been scoopng up Subaru LSDs for decades. So... ... if you found an LSD under a Datsun it was probably once under another Subaru.

Regarding the final drive ratio in your transmission: I do not know the actual numbers, but I would guess that 95% of Dual-Range 5-speeds have the ratio that is correct for your car. The only car to my knowledge that had a different ratio and had a D/R was the RX, and they are uncommon. Further, the RX was a kind of car that asked to be driven hard, so their transmissions almost certainly wore out at a higher rate than the ones in the everyday soobs. (They were a pregenitor of the current WRX, which are commonly found wrapped around stationary objects near the side of the road.) I am personally unaware of any wiring differences, but it is possible/probable between carb'd and SPFI'd versions. It still should not be that hard for a mechanic to find the right one, and every JDM importer with whom I have dealt over 25 years knew their stock VERY well. As far as possible drivetrain damage caused by driving with mismatched ratios (have you determined this to be the case yet?), I would suspect the the transmission will take the worst abuse (the rear transfer gears and/or bearings), followed by the axle joints, with the rear diff being my last worry. The rumble could also be caused by the damaged tires.

Airfare from NY to SEA should be pretty cheap. We should be able to loan you a Subaru... or two. Most of mine are Turbos, might make Bucky seem a little tame. I don't remember, is Bucky an automatic or manual? Otherwise, it is not that much of a drive. I am sure that we can help out any East Coast folk that come our way.

Many/most automatics can't be drained completely because about half of the ATF will be retained in the torque converter which usually doesn't have a drain. Most AT service places offer a "Power Flush" which is supposed to replace all of the fluid. I do not know whether or not your Quicky Lube offers Power Flushes or not, or whether there really is no way to Power Flush a Subaru.

Disclaimer: I have no personal experience with this stuff. I am just regurgitating (eeewww!!!) what others have said. The "anaerobic" means it will not cure in the presence of air. Anything that squeezes out is supposed to wash/wipe away without creating any clogging globs. The joints should be properly cured.

My Brother-In-Law recently came back from Camp Ananconda... relatively well and unharmed. Whether or not I agree with NCA on policy, I appreciate those who are willing to put themselves in harm's way for all of us. Thank you. As hooziewhatsit said, it is unlikely that you damaged anything in the head doing the work. The head MIGHT be cracked (there is a common problem with turbo heads with a crack visible in the exhaust port), but nothing hits anything if you get the timing-belt wrong or if it breaks. Very forgiving in that way. Also as "h" said, the most likely (and also very common) problem is that the passenger side timing belt is 180 crankshaft degrees out of phase. Maybe a pain to get to the point of realigning the belt, but simple to do and almost certain to work. And as edrach said, there are a lot of us in the region.