NorthWet

I am in the middle of changing fluids, so it will be aawhile before I can get pics. I noticed that you tried to PM me, so I did clean out my PM inbox.

It's referred to as the "hillholder". As EriK says, there is a cable that runs from the clutch fork (attaches to the opposite side of the fork from the clutch actuator cable), and then attaches to the hillholder valve. The adjustment is made at the clutch fork, and is done so on a mild upslope so that you can test the results. If you still need pictures, let me know exactly what you want and from what angle (from side or front of car, etc).

Nit, nit, nit... It is possible to have both worn bearings and "good" oil pressure, but it is because both indications are caused by same problem: Grunged/clogged oil passages. It is not uncommon for oil passages to get so grungy that they no longer flow properly, starving the main and rod bearings of oil while keeping the oil pressure up.

I totally agree with gg. According to your post, the bolt broke off while reinstalling it as opposed to breaking it upon removal. It is not rusted/gunked in place. A simple left-twist drill bit will probably spin it right out as soon as the flutes bite into the bolt. Its your engine's lubrication system. Don't gamble with it; do it right.

I second Cougar's suggestion. Fix the simple, normal maintenace stuff before going "exotic" and replacing pumps and stuff; filters get plugged (what they are expected to do) more often then pumps fail. BTW, going after the ignition first was a smart choice, IMHO.

"Selective part fitment" is common in anything that is gear related, as the needed installed clearances are the same as, or smaller than, production tolerances. Almost everything else in a car has very sloppy clearances when compared to a gearbox or differential. And I don't think that you want to even consider tearing into your transmission to replace synchronizers and gear pairs. The parts new from the dealer would quickly exceed the market value of your car, and the effort/expense needed to do the teardown and reassembly could be immense. I have done transmission mini-rebuilds on other makes, but none required gears to be pressed off/on the shafts as I have heard needs to be done with the Subaru transmissions; this adds to the expense and the opportunity for something to go wrong ($$$).

I have removed/replaced these sensors many times on several Subarus and have never had an issue caused by improper air gap. I believe that they were engineered so that exact placement is not critical.

If you felt comfortable completely disassembling the governor valve (you DID completely disassemble it, right? All of the sliding parts have to move with no resistance, "like butter"), then you might want to consider removing, disassembling, and cleaning the tranny's valve body. This is not a difficult task, just somewhat annoying. Drain fluid, remove vacuum modulator and adjacent solenoid, remove fluid pan, remove 2 transfer tubes, and undo the valve body bolts. Put the unit on the bench and carefully disassemble. Be prepared for ball bearings, springs and such. There are 3 check valves (spring with ball or cap) between the 2 body halves, but everything else is under the bolted plates on the sides of the body. Make sure that you have a replacement fluid pan gasket. These trannies do not use a filter, just a screen, so if you can get a gasket cheaper than a kit, go for it. Good luck. I have "fixed" several 3ATs just by cleaning things up and getting fresh fluid in them. BTW, draining the fluid only removes about half of the fluid, so to do things right you either need to drain-and-replace several times (cheap way) or get an ATF flush at an oil changer (expensive way).

The ECU uses a switched-ground to control the power to the injectors (almost all electronically controlled power uses switched-ground due to the nature of switching transistors). This means that (with the ignition on) the injectors will have voltage applied to one side, and since there is no current flow, the same voltage wil be seen at the other terminal of the injector. If this does not occur, then either the ground-side terminal is grounded or the injector's coil is "open".

Any decent stud should be an improvement over a standard headbolt. They provide greater, more consistant and repeatable clamping force, and are less likely to strip the block threads. The ARP studs are probably overkill for most of us, but they are available, and so far no other real source of studs has been identified. If I had my 'druthers, I would replace all bolts with studs (where practical), especially any that are threaded into aluminum. Some day, when I am rich...

* Mini 'jack: Pulled to 7500 without any obvious valve float? Was this with stock valve springs, etc? Just something I have been wondering about... End hijack *

Your last post didn't mention whether or not your fuel system is getting fuel and is pressurizing the filter and/or injector rails. Is your pump actually pumping? There is a fair amount of control circuitry for the pump, and if the pump was burnt out then some circuitry may also have been damaged. BTW, I would be very careful about directly actuating the injectors. I don't know for sure about the '86, but many systems use a dropping-resistor pack to limit voltage/current through the injectors.

How did you measure the pipe? The heat shielding makes it look much bigger than it is. And there is a MAJOR neckdown at the turn up towards the turbo. (I believe that it was rallyruss that discussed the actual pipe sizes, and how narrow that neckdown was.)

The folks who designed MegaSquirt offer it as a kit. If you are handy and electronically capable this could save you some money. Others offer value-added turnkey systems for particular applications, but these are a little more pricey and application specific. Are you doing a conversion on some other vehicle?

Yes, that sounds like the heat riser for a carb'd engine... just a heated air thing. Shouldn't be any problem using it, unless there is a difference between ASV setup between yours and the car it came off of (as in, one used 1 ASV adapter and the other had none or two).

A recent thread discussing it: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=37557 But perhaps the more definitive thread, if awfully lengthy: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19123

There are other ways of computing air mass/flow. One uses a MAP sensor (Manifold Air Pressure), and is the basis for a popular (at least well-talked about) replacement injector controller, MegaSquirt (MS).

Gary, have you looked at this thread from a little while ago? http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=35022 Also, a couple web pages that talk about Nissan diffs (mostly from the point of view of Zs and rear diffs, though): http://www.geocities.com/inlinestroker/ratio.html Zs: http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm http://alteredz.com/drivelinemods.htm http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6212/diffswap/diffswap.htm http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/R200.htm http://zhome.com/rnt/FordPower/DiffChange.html

Yeah, it looks like 85 was special. "32" does look like O2 sensor/wiring/connector.

Hey, I hear that them there HONDAS use a transverse engine. Maybe you should get one of them there HONDA engines and drop it in. Duck! INCOMING!!!! Based on the quality of your previous posts that I have read, I hadn't expected you to use such a... um... different... term from what you had intended. Thanks for clearing it up!

So, when you reattached the TC to the tranny, you turned and pushed and got the right number of clicks and such? If the engine is "seized" when everything is snugged up, this would be my first thing to look at. Yes, there whould be some sort of wire that attaches to the solenoid to actuate it. I do not have any Legacy/Impreza manuals, so I cannot help you identify what exactly to look for. *edit - Some other manufacturers do not bother with a separate solenoid power wire/connector, relying on a remote solenoid to switch the power cable. I doubt that Subaru did this, but I do not know. - end edit *

The one I have was pretty fun before the headgasket blew. Kind of a pain to service, as engine and tranny need to come out as a unit to do much of anything, and that requires removal of the front suspension's crossmember. This would be OK if I had a garage instead of a strip of crushed rock. :-\ It was lots of fun around town, but I had my reservations about wanting to run it on the freeway. Made a great soccer-mobile, except for hauling-half -of-the-team-with-me moments. Someone else had a thread that included a link to an article about Subaru hotrodding the Justy engine for a land-speed record. It might be fun to pull 120hp out of it...

Congrats! Just be careful about racking up that mileage so quickly. Wow, that is a long time to be sitting in the driver's seat! Just remember what Indiana Jones said, "It's not the years,... "

Crank-angle sensor is in the distributor; it is the slotted disc/optical emitter-detector. My guess is there is a wiring/connector glitch (i.e. - dirty connector or bad ground). Regarding auto vs. manual, my understanding is that there is a pin/jumper on the ECU that sets whether the car has a manual or automatic. Add to caleb's list what you already know: Turbo trannies can have different splines. *edit - And, as I had mentioned previously, the CCR turbo tranny should have fit just fine, except that your existing axles would not fit. Not as it should be, but in the list of glitches that can occur when swapping things, a relatively minor one that I personally would have accepted as it is an upgrade. - end edit*

Dumb Q#1: When the engine and transmission were mated back together, was the torque converted mounted on the engine or tranny? If on the engine, STOP!!! Ok, so I don't have other dumbQs... I don't know Imprezas, but you are likely to have 3 wires to the starter area: The power cable that attaches to the side of the starter, a ground cable that attaches to one of the starter mount bolts, and the solenoid wire that attaches to the solenoid likely with a spade connector.