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NorthWet

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Everything posted by NorthWet

  1. Would you please explain your use of "inverted"? It is not inverted in the classic sense (i.e.- crankshaft above pistons).
  2. Regarding turbo coolant leakage, one of our locals says that he has had 2 turbos fail with leaking turbo coolant jackets. This is anecdotal, as I have no personal knowledge of this problem. No one has yet mentioned the common way that EA82T's die: The infamous exhaust port crack. This is the crack in the port divider in the exhaust port, typically on the passenger (right) side head. This can dump coolant directly into the exhaust system, without any overt signs of a blown headgasket. Overheating would occur only due to coolant loss, and there would be no oil/water mixing.
  3. The EGO (O2 sensor) does not put out a signal until it gets hot. There is no "loop" to it, unless you are talking signal and ground (the ground is thorugh its threads to the exhaust system, which is ASSUMED to be grounded ). The EGO senses the exhaust's O2 concentration, converts it into a voltage, and the ECU adjusts the mixture to suit, and the EGO senses the resultant O2 concentration (this is the closed-loop). Disconnect the EGO and the system goes "open-loop", using pre-programmed values to adjust mixture. This would eliminate the EGO as a problem source.
  4. There will be a practical limit due to turbine material, and it would need to be derated with increased speed caused by trying to up the airflow/pressure. I would get a baseline from a properly running application, and be very careful about significantly exceeding this.
  5. I haven't found a diagram for the SPFI EGR system in any of my manuals (yet), but it sounds like the vacuum source is "ported", as in it is not exposed manifold vacuum. As such, no change in idle would be expected if the hose were removed. And according to my 85' FSM, a code 32 is EGR... might be different for your version/year.
  6. No offense to Jerry (who probably has 10000x as much EA71/81 experience as do I ), but this sounds electrical to me. As long as your heat riser tube from exhaust to intake is working, along with automatic choke functioning, by the time the engine reaches operating temperatures the carb should be off of the choke and running in "normal" state, where any other carb problem would show up. Electricals/electronics can be temperature sensitive, with hair-pulling intermittent problems. The fuel pump (I assume it is electric on the 78?) or its control or connections could be having a problem; fuel pressure guage could help here. As mentioned earlier, the coil could be a problem, as they often develop opens/shorts when they heat up (which happens easier when warm air reduces cooling). Same for ignition condensor, or any of the ignition connections. Good luck!
  7. Not trying to put words in Will's mouth, but what I believe he meant was that funtionally they are equivalent, that the number difference reflects more of an application difference... as in, slightly different mount flange.
  8. Once upon a time, used catcons were considered extremely toxic waste, and it was recommended that under no circumstance you breathe any dust from a physically damaged catcon. Something to think about...
  9. As least one of the members has been looking for quite awhile for the specs (flow maps) and hasn't found them. Don't be surprised if you don't find any.
  10. First, don't listen to me as to whther or not you should keep your Brat. I believe in my heart that I can get nad keep any piece of machinery running... reality not withstanding. Do you have a clue as to whether the warm weather problems are electrical or fuel delivery? If it is totally dead, it should be easy to check for spark; likely causes are bad coil, bad "ignitor" in electronic distribs (but I assume your has points) or bad condensor in points-ignition. And the greatest likelyhood of fuel issues would be stuck choke (if too rich) or improper normal idle mixture/speed (too lean/slow). A car that runs well when cold *should* be easier to troubleshoot then one that runs well warm but not cold. Take a deep breath, check out the sights of Spring (almost Summer!!!), and relax. Oh... exhale that breath.
  11. I have no direct experience, but I think that it would take a major disaster to cause the cam timing to "jump". AFAIK the gears are steel and very durable, unlike GM and Ford timing gears. My guess is that you either got the wires back on out of sequence, or you still have the distributor a little off. Might also be wiring/grounding issues on the distributor/ignitor.
  12. How shot is the ECVT? I was thinking of a go-cart project... Might be interested in playing with an ECVT (but not for a real car!).
  13. Nit, Nit nit!!! There are quite a few longitudinal I4 FWDs. Though you could nitpick right back that some of these are technically front-midengines, such as some Renaults. Gee.. I have a Justy with engine/tranny sitting on the ground... I have an EJ22... just need a FWD tranny... or maybe use an AWD and route the driveshaft back forward... hmmmm....
  14. In The States, they have a tool that used to be called a GM trim tool, now just sort of a generic window/trim tool. It is flat, about 6-8 cm acrross and perhaps 15 CM long, with a 2-3cm slot down the middle. You slide the slot between winder handle and door panel, and it compresses the retaining clip out of the way. All of this being said, I find karinvail's method just as easy and US$5-10 cheaper. It is really not that hard to get the clip/handle off... can take more practice to get it back on, as the clip should be compressed on the handle before putting it on the regulator shaft, and then the clip slips into its normal place after fitment to the shaft. After the handle comes off, you have the screws that hold on the armrest, and then the panel is held on by plastic push-clips that fit into holes in the door. These are best removed by carefully prying on each side of the clip and popping them loose from the door. The GM trim tool (or a pair of flat-head screwdrivers) works wonders for this.
  15. For bedtime reading last night, I had a Chilton's manual that my wife bought me for US$0.75. It said to just put spacers under the rocker arm tower studs and use a regular socket on the head bolt. Now, I haven't looked at a real EA81 head for almost 10 years, but this sounded odd to me. But what can you expect from a 75 cent manual.
  16. I am not against diesels, just illustrating that in the USA we don't, as a society, deal with diesels in a rational manner. Consumers ignore diesels because they are fussy, noisy, smelly, underpowered, and more expensive compared to gasoline-powered engines. We, as a group, do not want to deal with having to wait to start our cars, having to search to find someplace to buy fuel, smell up the house when we start the vehicle in our garages, smell our own exhaust while idling on the highway or while waiting to pick up our kids, hear the engine running at any time whatsoever, get outaccelerated by econoboxes, or have to get our oil changed regularly. However, just let the cost of gasoline rise and all of a sudden everybody is talking diesel (I am not referring to just the people in this discussion, but our society in general). All those "inconveniences" evaporate so that we can "save" a penny per mile. Never mind that there is no consumer-level demand for diesel passenger vehicles in the USA, we want something NOW! So, in the past our automakers have decided not to spend the years needed to properly engineer a diesel engine and instead just slap together something based on an SI engine. We rush out to buy it, discover it is real cr*p, and p*ss and moan about it for decades. In the mean time, the price of gasoline drops a little and diesel increases a little, so that once again there is parity. Demand for diesel drops to nil again, and we continue on our consumer ways. Status quo ante. There are some domestic diesel engines in the USA market, but they are meant to be truck engines. I also consider most of them to be used in "boutique" applications, ones where the owners wanted to have the cache of a diesel but don't really need it. Example: My best friend bought a Dodge pickup truck with the Cummins Turbo Diesel option, though he doesn't tow or haul anything. He wanted it because he used to be a long-haul trucker and wanted the ambiance of a direct-injected diesel; he wanted the noise and the smell, because it brought back good memories. Never mind that the engine option was an additional US$8000!!! That is above and beyond what a medium-displacement V8 would have cost in this truck. There is no economic rationale for his choice; it is just what he wanted. In general, diesel passenger vehicles in the USA are fads, brought in by changing fuel prices or social conscience. IMHO, they fall into the same class as electric vehicles and hydrogen power. We have no installed base for mass diesel vehicles, and there is no social engineering that would encourage its use. CI engines can last longer than SI, but most of that is because they are built more sturdily, not because of any inherent advantage to diesel (other than possible cylinder washing on a badly tuned SI). Build a good SI engine and it will last, too. (...subaru...) There is no market in the USA for durable engines; we have learned that we don't want to own a car longer than 3 years. Our V8s could easily last a million miles before the cylinders and rings wear out, but there is no econmic incentive to build them that way. CI gets its greater fuel mileage because of greater energy density in diesel fuel, plus the greater thermal efficiency conveyed by its higher compression. That higher thermal efficiency also equates to higher NOx emissions, one of the most difficult to control. It can also have a real problem with particulate emissions. Not "any" fuel can be used in a real-world CI engine. The fuel (or some significant portion of it) must have a cetane rating that will allow it to ignite given the attained compression heating. Using the diesel injection as an ignition source can help utilize other fuelse, such as propane. Flame-travel has little to do with combustion rate in a diesel. The flame does not travel, it spontaneously occurs at the point of mixing between fuel and oxygen. So the practical restraints on combustion speed involve injection speed and fuel atomization, plus combustion chamber design (pre-chamber vs. direct injection and such) and turbulence. Speaking of pre-chamber vs direct injection, this has a large effect on noise... and efficency. Consumer diesels tended to have pre-chamber type heads, which significantly reduced the sounds of combustion, but sacrificed efficiency. Commercial diesels are all about efficiency and reliability, so they are typically (exclusively?) direct injected. I have no doubt that Nissan can and has produced very good diesel engines. They were fitted in several vehicles here during the 80's. They have a real commercial market for their product, with the incentive to do it right. No such market exists for USA domestic makers. Regarding MPG, my 77 Dodge manages 14 MPG while loaded with 1ton+ and towing a car hauler with my Datsun on it, including going through some moderate passes (3000+ feet). This is with a clapped-out gas V8 that has at least one dead lifter. True, it only gets 14 MPG empty towing nothing on the flat, but that is the way US trucks were setup. Engine displacement and factory tune (trucks were jetted richer than cars) are major factors for truck fuel efficiency. Thanks to KStretch55 for correcting the Jet-A issue. Turbines are also continuous ignition, not compression ignition. (nit, nit, nit) I am not trying to put down diesels. I just do not believe that they are a viable option in the USA now or in the near future. As a society, we love to jump on bandwagons, but eventually we will slip off and climb back into the comfort of our SUVs. I think that the greatest hope we have to wean ourselves from guzzling fuel is the hybrid internal-combustion/electric vehicles. But I think it will take a real, sustained economic disaster. "Tomorrow! Tomorrow! I love ya, tomorrow! You're only a tank away!!!"
  17. Your English is better than my Spanish. The turbo was removed, no turbo? Better to keep Fuel Injection, and fix problems. You probably have bad sensors, and we can help you find and replace them. 17Km/Gal is very bad, should be 33-55Km/Gal. Give examples of when engine power is bad or "rough" and when it is good. Say if engine is cold or warm, slow or fast. Welcome to USMB!
  18. I wasn't planning on doing any welding, just material removal. I need to take a closer look at what is needed to be done. I would really love a furnace... i have been thinking about how to heat-treat, anneal, etc metals.
  19. ...cleaner,whiter teeth... less body odor... more popular... 15% guaranteed return... I'm a bit of a Doubting Thomas.
  20. Timing alone (if just a few degrees off) shouldn't really give you backfire. Having a couple of spark plug wires switched can/will. When does it backfire? Did the idle speed/quality change after your work? Did you change anything in the ignition secondary other than just regapping the plugs? As far as vacuum lines and timing, I haven't had to deal with this for awhile, and I don't have an 84 EA81 to check. Typically, the distributor has one or 2 vaccum hoses going to it. If one, that is the vac-advance; if two, then one is advance and one is retard. Disconnect both, plug both just to be sure, and set your timing. Or you could always RT*M... assuming you have a manual. Seriously, though, the backfire is probably not related to a slightly misset ignition timing. More situational info would help. Don't make me come there just to test drive your Brat! (hhhmmm....)
  21. IMHO, if you need boots now then you will need balljoints pretty soon. I do not know of any vehicle that you can get separate boots for, but then I have never really looked. Good luck.
  22. This was (and always should be) my first thought: Ignition parts, especially secondary circuit. I took a quick rescan throught his thread and didn't see any mention of this. Good ignition parts are really important in the stressed-out world of the turbo. Also, is the rpm cut only under load, or does it happen if you are sitting still and rev the motor? And, did you check that the turbo plenum is securely hose-clamped down as mentioned previously? They really do love to pop up at the most inconvenient of times.
  23. Air-water. (ie - water as the coolant) In regards to pressure, TECHNICALLY the pressure in the smaller pipe will decrease (and the velocity increase) in accordance with Bernoulli's Principle. Realistically, the restriction causes increased flow resistance and thus a pressure drop across the smaller pipe(s) (and resultant flow reduction). Also in regards to pressure, the functioning of the IC will inherently cause a drop in pressure, in accordance with gas laws. It is removing heat from a fixed-volume environment, which will cause an increase in density and a decrease in pressure. You really aren't looking for an increase in pressure per se but an increase in total oxygen into the cylinder, which the increase in density gives you. And, just to nitpick , gases are fluids (as are liquids), but gases are not liquids. (Nit, nit, nit!)
  24. I'll second most of what All-talk wrote. The only nitpick I have is over the meaning of "92-octane". The original setting of "octane rating" used two reference hydrocarbons: Octane and (oh my gosh! my mind went blank!!! Its either Pentane or Heptane... Pentane IIRC). 100-octane was a fuel that had the same detonation resistance as pure Octane. 92-octane would be a fuel that had the same detonation resistance as a blend of 92% Octane and 8% (mumble). Trivia 1: There were two competing methods of determining "octane rating". One was Motor-Method, and the other was Research-Method. So our current rating system is actually specified as (R+N)/2. Trivia 2: The USA gasoline companies Phillips 66 and Union 76 got their numerical designations from the octane-rating of their fuels. 86subaru, back to your experience with "cheaper" gasohol, at least one of the corn-belt states (Iowa?) subsidizes gasohol as a perk to their economy. Due to alcohol's lower energy density, you will get lower fuel economy on gasohol than on a comparable straight gasoline. BTW, last time I heard, gasohol was a net loss in energy, as it takes more energy to produce the ethanol than the ethanol contains. This may have changed, but I rather doubt it. Without social engeneering in the form of subsidies, the price should be higher than for straight gasoline. Methanol is just plain nasty stuff, and should be kept away from all rubber and plastic not specifically designed for it. It has about half of the energy density of gasoline.
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