NorthWet

IMHO, Chilton's was useless 30 years ago, and it is still useless today. Follow Miles advice about installing the torque converter onto the transmission shafts prior to attaching engine to tranny... or accept the VERY BAD consequences. Trying to mate the two while TC is attached to engine can result in terrible damage to the automatic tranny. I am not sure that I have seen an engine "sling". Typically, a length of chain is used to attach to the top of the engine at lift points. A touch of finesse can be added by getting a load-leveler (not the proper name) that connects to the lift's hook and allows the engine to be tilted (back-to-front) to aid in removal and installation. Good luck!

Its been brought up before, and considered too expensive for us cheap-a... er, I mean frugal, Subaru owners: Hubs with common bolt-circles that will accept already existing wheels. Toyota 6-lug probably for the off-road crowd, and maybe 5-lug for us road-wimps. Might be easier than a line of custom rims. Sounds like biggest bang-for-the-buck (pun intended) would be protective plates and bars (skidplates, brushbars, rollbars). Do you have the capability (or known contacts) to fab things like dual-range gear-pairs? Hmmmm... new head castings... hmmm.... Can you do springs and/or anti-roll ("sway") bars? Suspension arms (Legacy-style for the ea81/82 chassis)?

It is far more likely that the leak is from a loose/leaking hose or from a leaking gasket than it would be from a cracked block. And it seems that any leak ends up dripping from the crossmember. Good luck.

Power. I have a Loyale that has a bad power rack, and it is slightly annoying to drive because of lack of power steering. The Leone/Loyales are much nicer with power, IMHO.

Gary, I got the info (I thought that I had responded, but wouldn't be the first time i goofed! Thanks!), but what turns out to be really important is the outlet and mounts. BTW, not only are XT6 radiators almost nonexistant on the aftermarket, but XT (XT4) radiators are being dropped, also. Modine lists them as existing stock only (or similar term). Soon, it may be EA81s.... I am pretty sure that my radiator guy can do up some XT6 radiators, given an example such as mine. So, maybe get "stock" and "race" options.

GG, I have an XT6 radiator in my hot little hands now (Thanks to Qman, and also to TomRhere!!!). After cursory examination by me (it was raining, so very cursory!), the core itself is the same as the EA82, the top and bottom mounting straps are slightly different, and the header tanks are similar but the outlets on the XT6 are significantly larger in diameter. I am looking in to a couple options. The Modine EA82 2-row are all metal, and real metal at that.

Plasma cutter... Petroleum-filled vessel... hmmmm... BOOM!!! Or at least smoke and some flame?! Please be careful.

If your car is NOT a GL-10, then it probably does not have the air-suspension package. Look at the strut caps under the hood... if it doesn't say "air suspension (or something close) then it does not have air-suspension.

That looks very nice!!! The laws are strict here in the USA, too.

I just looked at my '85 GL10... hopefully they are the same/similar: Remove spade-(flat) connector from the sender, and stick something metallic into the wire's connector; a wire with both ends stripped, or, my personal favorite to have under the hood, a slightly unbent paper clip. Touch/attach the metallic-something to a good ground (e.g. any clean part of the engine, a grounding bolt, the battery negative cable) turn on your ignition and check your gauge. This wire is meant to be "grounded" through the sender, whose resistance is supposed to vary with temperature. If the threads of the sender are not clean or otherwise making good electrical contact with the thermostat housing then the sender may not function correctly. If after grounding the sender's connector and observing the gauge (may need two people) the gauge does not show full scale (or nearly so ), then there is likely a problem with the wiring or the gauge. I hope that this helps. Pat

As far as I know, you replaced the appropriate sensor. What you could try is grounding the wire to that sensor and then check the gauge reading. (I can't remember if this is a single wire or two wire, and it is raining too hard for me to go out and look right now.) Anyways, if you ground the wire to the meter it should go full scale.

Regarding the boiling point of LPG... It is not quite that simple, as it is going through a phase conversion and you are up against the latent heat of vaporization. IOW, it takes a great deal of energy to convert a small amount of LPG into gaseous propane, and that heat has to come from somewheres. It sucks the heat from the environment, and if there is not enough heat energy available from its environment it will pretty much stay liquid. In general, air is not heat-dense enough to convert much LPG to gaseous form, unless the air is very hot. Most car applications (at least in the past) have gassifiers that use coolant to supply the heat to change LPG to a gas, but they obviously don't work until the engine has warmed a little.

Back on topic... The only platinums that I have ever used were Bosch, and I haven't bothered with them for over 15 years. They lasted about 10-15k and the center electrode was eroded down to the insulator. POS, IMHO. As far as I can remember, platinum is not used for durability (melting point) but rather for its conductivity. Bosch platinums (again, the only ones with which I have had experience) used a very thin center electrode, which reduces the potential (EMF, voltage) needed to fire across a given gap. That very thin electrode did not survive for long in my Datsun 510. Plain-old NGKs lasted almost forever... and with around 350k on the chassis, almost forever was a long time. You want durability? Maybe they should come out with Tungsten plugs. Maybe Champion will do that, and still use the same cr**py insulator that breaks down in 5k miles...

Regarding mixture, the feedback loop on the SPFI should automatically compensate, assuming that it is still within its capture limits. Pinging (detonation) is caused by high temperature/pressure causing the end-gas to decompose into more detonation-prone components, and this end-gas self-igniting. the throttle position (engine load) has a great deal to do with temperature and pressure in the combustion chamber. Shawn, sorry. I just felt that it should be pointed out that this is not technically legal. Wouldn't want anybody to think that we encouraged such things.

WOW! It's like they think that they are made of gold or something...

A brass drift will prevent scratching and related damage to the hub.

You could swap over to the 4-speed automatic, which would drop the cruise rpm about 800-1000. Not exactly a popular swap, however. The Nissan R180 and possibly even the R200 should bolt right in. I have some links to pages that list the various Nissan diff ratios. Another possibility is to run taller wheels/tires. Not exactly easy, but doable. BTW, I have a '71 510 with an z20+5speed, R180, and corvair rims. fun...

That article was from 1972... the prices are a little different now. Probably more like $500-1000. Propane has definite advantages, IMHO.

I don't know if they still sell carburetor cleaner (the stuff you use for rebuilding); if so, this should take it off... along with your skin and anything else organic that it touches.

Regarding the transmission, do you have a 3-speed of 4-speed autoamatic. If it is the 3-speed then the engine speed is normal; and, except for maybe an increased noise level and fueld consumption, it is OK. The design of these engines ("short-stroke") is such that they are able to handle high-engine speeds for long periods of time and distance. As northguy said, the ticking might be cured or at least reduced by using various "cleaning" products. The ticking is from the hydraulic valve lash adjusters (aka HVLA or HLA) which tend to crud-up and not fully extend. It is not in itself harmful. The rodent nest seems to be a common problem with Subarus that have sat for a while. Someone said that it is because there is easy access through the base-of-windshield air intake; strategic placing of some screen may help future problems. There is also a writeup in our USRM (online repair manual) that discusses getting at the heater core, and it may be useful as background info. Welcome, and good luck!

As a general carb-type suggestion, could the choke be adjusted such that it is coming off too soon? I myself haven't seen the carb on an EA82 (all of mine are FI), but this is a general problem on emission-era carb'd engines. Another possibility is a problem with the water heating of the manifold/carb. Are the carburetors in the Australian market "feedback" carbs? Does your car have an O2 sensor? If so, there might be some sensor issues.

I probably will be making a round trip, but not until either Saturday or Sunday. Let me know if this would help you.

I quickly checked on of our (USA) parts stores, NAPA, and they want US$40.39 each... or US$323.12 for the set. I could not find the price for solid lifters.

There are 2 basic spark plug threads. IIRC, they are 18mm and 14mm, with the larger being the most common. The larger is also the same thread as for most O2 sensors. Regarding being tight, I thought that I had a similar problem removing some plugs on my 87... the plugs were SOOOO tight. I squirted PB at the hole/plug, and didn't help. Worked it out a rotation and back in... didn't help. Realized I wasn't using a sparkplug socket, switched to my sparkplug socket and the plugs came out smooth as butter. The problem: The socket I was using had a SLIGHTLY thicker wall than my sparkplug socket, and was getting wedged between parts of the head casting near the hole. Just a thought to check...

John, he says that he is getting cold air from the A/C, so a low-pressure condition is unlikely. The "AC/Vent" sliders at the end of the dashboard near the doors just controls whether or not the air it gets is from outside (vent) or the heater/AC system. It in no way controls whether or not the heater and/or AC functions. The air out of the center vents is always heater/AC processed air, so that is where you should check for cold air on the AC settings. As far as I know, the MAX AC sets the ventilation system to recirculate (as others have said), and I think that this is all vacuum actuated. It is possible that when the button is set to max that the compressor might get switched off (might be different sets of contacts in the button/switch, with one set not working right).