NorthWet

If the A/C works (blows cold air) on the normal A/C setting then the A/C mechanicals should be working OK. It sounds like the switch may have a problem if you then push it again for "Max A/C" and the fan stops running or the air turns warm, or the fan is running but no air comes out of the vents. Is it a complete "nothing is working" or one of the above partial failures?

My $.02 up front... hooziewhatsit, the error light has to do with the egr vacuum solenoid, not the EGR valve itself. Common belief (I have not looked into it myself just yet) is that the ECU is getting an improper electrical response from the solenoid (open, short, resistance out-of-range???). IIRC, the EGR valve only functions under part throttle, so it should have little or no effect on detonation. The car should run perfectly well with the vacuum line removed and plugged. I can't remember whether the Federal fine for disabling mandated emission control equipment is $10000 or $50000.

Emily from CCR posts here fairly often. I have heard nothing but good about CCR as a company and the owners as human beings.

All in all it was a fun time. A pleasant afternoon with good folk. However... the people in Pullman area might object to you calling Mt. Rainier area as "southeast" WA. Thanks, Alan. A pleasure doing business with you. Also, thanks to edrach, qman, and turbone for all of the stuff I came away with.

Folks, I offer a service through USMB to fix '80s Subaru clocks, but haven't offered it yet for New Gen Subarus because I didn't have an example of the clock. After looking at this thread, and particularly the picture (thanks!) it looks like Subaru used the same clock module, just with a different circuit board. If anyone wishes to send me there dead New Gen clock I will see about fixing it. If it is as simple as the OLD Gen clocks, then I will offer the same service for New Gen as my current Old Gen service (basically FREE... see sticky in Marketplace). If a local (or someone really generous) wants to loan me there working clock, that would be appreciated. Otherwise, I will tear into my wife's new-to-us Legacy and take a peek. BTW, the problem with the Old Gen are the dropping resistors for the display lighting overheat and melt their solder joints. If this happens with SMD the SMD chips would fall off. TTFN! Pat

My 82 with Hitachi carb has an O2 sensor, cat and ASV. I believe someone has said that this was the way California cars were setup. My ASV functions only for the first couple of minutes after startup, presumably while the O2 sesnor is too cold to function. It is rather loud during that time (maybe I should check my reed valves, eh?) The ASV is not there to help the catcon, but rather to allow oxidation of HC and CO in the hot exhaust pipe environment.

Find a front diff off of a Nissan 4WD that has the same gear ratio. Same maker, same flange, opposite rotation already. Qman ran a Nissan front diff, and probably others have done something similar.

If I were to guess from afar, I would say that the deposits look like burnt oil. you said that you had siezed oil rings, so oil would be in combustion chamber (piston top and CC crud) and blowby (compression rings probably weren't much better) could have caused oil in the intake tract and onto the intake valves. The deposits on the intake tulip sure looks like carbonized oil. I see that you got the valve springs off. I seldom use a compressor on an engine with lightweight springs (don't currently have a compressor anyways...); I just put a support block under the valve head and compress with my fingers.

Sorry, Corky... I need to check dates better. I didn't notice that it was today and about the time I posted. I am still available, just 90 minutes away.

If I can finalize plans for being on your side of the water tomorrow I will be there. "Barn raisings" can be fun... might do it anyways and ignore the gas-cost. I would need directions and contact info. Also, any tools that I should bring along that would be handy? Saw, framing-nailer, etc? Or are you just looking for strong backs and weak minds? Pat (Jack of all trades... master of none.)

Similar to the type that WJM was offering for EA82s. Interchangeable???

Looks like they would fit my 510. Too bad I like my steel Corvair rims. Essentially 4x4.25

Target offers "Wedgies", card-style dual cupholders, that are supposed to fit between the seat and console but they don't fit their on the EA82s.. but they do fit in the door pockets. My wife loves them, but my legs are longer and I tend to end up with my lower thigh/knee resting against a thin sharp-ish edge of plastic. Plus, if you close the door with drink in place you might end up wearing some of the drink. I usually just wedge my can of Diet Mt. Dew betseen seat and e-brake handle (PB 5-speed). I am not sure what I will do with my RX tranny....

WOW!!! What a cutie-patootie! "It's a girl"... reminds me of the old joke as to why boys run faster than girls. Too bad it is inappropriate to tell in ANY company.

If I can't find a Brat that I can afford (and maybe even if I do ) I am planning on giving this a try. My plan is to do a bed stretch, too.

Please clarify things for me, please: Is the clunk a sound, or a car shuddering jerk. A simple clunk could be nothing more than a bad electrical connection to the starter (very common). It could also be loose engine-to-tranny bolts or a loose starter. A shuddering jerk could mean hydrolock, where water SOMEHOW gets into the cylinders. It could be an headgasket, but it could also be a bad intake gasket leaking water from the coolant passage into the intake tract. Both the HG and intake gasket could give you coolant loss, overheating, loss of power, and hydrolock.

Will, as far as I know you are dead on. We just need one that is proper (NC, I believe) with the right resistance (35-40-ish ohms), and they would function. If we found a helpful partsperson... They might not pass visual inspection, for those places that do such things.

Amen, Miles.

I don't have Alex beat... I was just wordier!

IIRC, the term originated with aircooled aircraft engines, specifically radial engines. It was not uncommon to change out cylinders in large bombers/transports while the airplane was in flight! Many engines have removable cylinder liners, but few modern engines are designed this way. I believe that the Subarus use cast-in-place liners (I don't think that that is the proper term, but it will do): The iron or steel liners are placed in the casting mold and the aluminum is cast around them. That would make them very hard to remove. Of course, you could do what some motorcycle makers did (do?): Use aluminum cylinder walls and then coat them with chromium and such. Could use Honda's method of exploding metallic wire in the cylinder to plasma-coat the walls. Then, all you would need to do is have custom pistons cast or forged, and then you would have... ... an 11% increase in displacement. hmmm.... The displacement per se is not really the issue, but how much air you can get into the cylinders. Grand Prix (Formula 1) cars used to be limited to 1.5Litres... It would be more cost effective to either improve the breathing of the engine or go to a later engine such as the EJ22. "Big Bore" kits are pretty much a thing of the last millenium. Sorry.

"Luuuukke! I am your Fathar... take my hand..."

A lightened flywheel does NOT increase HP or torque. It allows the engine to change speed quicker.

The wire between gauge and sender is designed to be grounded by the sender, so it getting "shorted" would not cause it to overheat/burn, just for the fuel gauge to read full scale (probably empty). Sounds like you lost a wire supplying power to the gauge.

I have NOT done a waterpump on an EA82 (yet ) and my FSM doesn't show any, but waterpumps often have locating dowels that would interfere with "shearing" with a deadblow hammer. Can anyone confirm that EA82 waterpumps do NOT have locating dowels?

My vote goes for a vacuum leak. The intake gaskets are a likely suspect. Good luck!