NorthWet

Welcome!!! Lots of good people here and lots of good information. I mostly hang around the "older" crowd, but recently got a 90 Legacy LS.

If you have the trim-work off, it won't hurt to play with the shifter-mount bracket to adjust the lever/linkage. My advice: Don't stare at it and wonder how, just adjust it back and forth and see if it changes things.

Can I have some spirits and pretend that I am there???

I can't think of anything it could be EXCEPT linkage issues. It sounds like the linkage has been "shortened" (bent, shifted at shift lever connection) so that it is not moving enough to engage the transfer gears (and consequently the 4WD switch) nor the reduction gears until it is moved past 4HI. I would check again under the shift boot/console, and probably just for grins readjust the linkage (slotted mount on shift bracket, IIRC). Glad you got an engine!

How'd ya guess??? This might work, except... a) I am nearly blind without my glasses I don't bother putting on my glasses to "go" during the night c) because of a) and , and living with fussy females, i wouldn't be in a "position" to aim, and d) even awake and with glasses, my aim isn't THAT good. Oh, and e) sparkplug is already out. The answer will have to wait, as I slightly dislocated my right knee last weekend and it still doesn't want to stay in place. Makes my manual laborer job exciting... However, if Rob would revisit an earlier post of his and JUST ASK THE QUESTION he could probably claim the prize.

I haven't looked at it, but I can't think of a good reason other than fitment issues. No exhaust "tuning" is effective after the first major obstruction to exhaust flow. Mufflers and cats attenuate any exhaust pressure pulses, so no further benefit can be derived by keeping the atmosphere side restrictive.

Well, regarding the acid, I wouldn't worry about if too much. It will have destoyed any textile that it touched. I would start out with lots of baking soda and water, dowse, rinse, repeat...repeat...repeat. I would probably also get some NOCO acid detect spray (form the makers of the battery post cleaner and sealers). This will let you know how whether you got it all or not. The tranny linkage depends on the tranny. Your thread doesn't list what car/tranny... The 3-speed uses solid linkage with adjusters, and the 4-speed uses a cable with adjusters. If the adjustment is that far off, I would look for what shifted (as in tranny mounts broken or whatever). I assume this car was in an accident?

The thermostat regulates engine temperature. If you remove it, the engine will take longer to reach operating temperature, and, if it is cold outside, might never reach operating temperature. This will increase the amount of fuel that condenses on the cylinder wall, diluting the oil, increasing cylinder/ring wear, contaminating the oil, and increasing emissions. The car will not run as well at less than optimum temp. Thermostats are good things as long as they work properly. The oil supply to the turbo is metered, so as Erik said this is a bad idea. It would be better to get either an oil cooler adapter (available from various places, including our own "WJM") or a remote filter adapter and appropriate plumbing. I haven't looked at the wasgate plumbing, so have no good advice here. BUT... SAAB used a knock control system (called APC) that "reduces" (not exactly accurate) the boost when it senses detonation. "oddcomp" has perhaps the best info on this, and it is the way that I plan to go on my EA82Ts. I personally don't think that there is any significant difference between synthetic and non- regarding cooling issues. I do think that you should go with the very best water cooling system that you can afford/engineer. These engines do not take well to overheating. I am assuming a front mount radiator? The copper tubing from engine to radiator should help alot. Bus, bug, type2??? Or Rabbit/Golf?

I would say to pull the engine. You have done it before, so you have an idea of what is involved, you can do it from the top of the car, and you don't have to bench-press the tranny back up. Others might offer you another alternative: Just separate the engine and tranny and scoot one/both away enough to get working room. I have not tried it yet, but sounds like too much bother for me. A groaning/screeing/weird noise could be a throwout bearing going bad. These are not serviceable (under normal situations, anyways). I have one that is seasonally noisy: It only screes during certain months.

boing, just feel the radiator core, top to bottom, while the engine is at operating temperature. If you feel cold regions these are plugged tubes. If you have A/C or something else that makes it difficult to feel the front of the core then pull the electric fan and feel on the backside.

Hey Jim, are you still on the first replacement thermostat, or have you replaced it with a second new one? Over the years, I have had very bad luck with aftermarket t-stats (particularly Stant). I have had some in my Datsun last less than one week before they started sticking. IIRC, I even had one bad out of the box (think that was on my Aerostar). As at least one person has said, your car's symptoms sound like nothing else except a sticking t-stat, one that resists opening at rated temp but stays reasonably open once operating temperature has been reached. My suggestion, assuming that you haven't already done so, is to get an OE t-stat from the dealer and give it a try. I know many members have strong opinions towards using OE t-stats exclusively. (I'll trade you problems: My wife's t-wagon has been overheating for a couple of weeks. I think that it is the electric fan not coming on due to a flakey connector, but since I have been working constantly I haven't been with her when it gets hot, and she hasn't pulled over to see if the fan is on. I picked up a fan with chassis-side connector that I will splice in when we both are home and there is some light.)

As long as the rest of the cooling system is sealed (and not hot/pressurized), there should be very little coolant loss if you were to quickly swap the old for the new. Might lose and ounce or two.

For NOx, the EGR and the (first?) catalytic converter are the main controls. A leaky valve would allow EGR all of the time, so your stall test probably does not indicate a leaky valve. You might have blockage somewheres, however. I would think (without any specific information to back it up at the moment) that 15 to 25 MPH would not be getting into the midrange where the EGR would be operating. Could be wrong... Was the car properly warmed immediately before the test? If the catcons are not up to normal working temp they wil not function well.

Bump Folks, what I am looking for here is your personal experience with burned clutches and how stiff your clutch pedal is/was. The Datsuns and Toyotas that I have driven with equivalent horsepower (and usually much more low-end torque) than my EA82Ts, have much lighter pedal force than all my subes except my XT, and I have never had clutch issues with them. My 510's clutch isn't significantly different in size (IIRC, been 15 years since I changed its clutch :-p ), has far more torque, and a light clutch pedal... So what gives? Is a binding cable at the root of some of the clutch problems that many gripe about?

If you can manage to (safely!) touch the radiator core while the engine is at operating temperature, you can feel for cold areas on the core. Just feel from top to bottom, and you are likely to find cold areas where the radiator is plugged and the coolant doesn't flow. When replacing, seriously consider a copper radiator instead of the aluminum with plastic tanks. Aluminum is not a very good radiator material... just cheap.

Again, I would be careful about using a silicone product on a part subject to petroleum exposure. Might be OK, but if you would be concerned about using ONLY the silicone sealer then you really shouldn't use it on the gasket.

This is on your EA81, correct? Have you checked the torsion bar adjustment screw yet? This might have been adjusted by someone in the past. I don't know about the clocking, having never had a reason to take a look to see how to do it.

Speedyparts.com is USA, isn't it? they couldn't do better than "2nd day" across the Int DT, eh? You would be better off getting some sheet/roll gasket material and cutting your own gaskets. I assume that this material is available to you; just use an "Xacto" knife (or whatever it may be called for you) to cut to fit. Most silicone sealers will not stand up to constant exposure to petroleum products. They start to swell and soften, eventually failing.

See your "title" on this thread.

I don't know if it will fit, but I have a couple engines that I just got from the JY that I could measure. I can tell you that they are a LOT heavier. I can lift and carry an EA81 (and probably your EA71), I can lift an EA82, but the EJ22 I can only lift under special circumstances (like paying $30 for all-you-can-lift at the JY!). It is almost twice as heavy as the EA81/71.

A possibility, but requires a ...hmmmm... less than adequate machinist. When the flywheel is surfaced, the machinist needs to machine both the clutch surface and the top surface of the flywheel, maintaining a certain specified depth of the step. I have had one flywheel surfaced to the wrong step depth, and another that was not surfaced flat, but rather dished due to a worn cutter. Also, over the years I have had problems getting the right clutch parts from parts houses (NAPA, C/S/K, et al). EDIT: This is with your EA81 engine and EA82 tranny? END EDIT

In general, ATF does not damage gear oil, and is often added by some people to either thin out gear oil or help clean things out (it is high detergent). I think that you could just drain the differential case well, refill and run for a while, and probably drain/refill again.

Alan, I have some doubt that that replacement Bosch sensor would be bad enough to cause CEL error codes, yet good enough to not kill your mileage. Is it possible that you are seeing an old code? (As in, did you clear old codes since your e-testing?) If I remember correctly, the O2 sensor code occurs when the ECU detects its "reference voltage" (5V) or 0V (out of range values). (Info provided by another board member in another, older thread.) This would imply something really bad happened to the O2 sensor. My guess as to what would happen is that the ECU would go "open loop" and use default mixture settings, which is probably richer. I doubt that plugging up of the catcon would occur, at least not unless it went super rich and for a significant period of time.

I have no answer. But maybe you have cable issues; how light is the clutch effort normally? My new-to-me XT only requires 5-10 pounds of pressure to operate the clutch, whereas my other EA82's feel like 30-40 lbs. I think the difference is clutch cable degradation and possibly routing.

The good news is that I work at a newspaper publisher, and if taken apart carefully they can probably be put back together and still be usable, if not showroom quality.