NorthWet

Left and right as viewed from where? Standard is as viewed from driver's seat, but I think that you are saying as viewed from the front of the car... ... so, passenger-side (USA-centric) dipstick is for the diff, and driver's side is the ATF. One way to check is to pull them out and see what drips...

By "vacuum line" do you mean the PCV hose that goes to the cam cover/housing? If so, this is relatively normal, if slightly disgusting. it is water/oil emulsion, usually caused by condensation in the engine. It should be cleaned out of the PCV system, but is not really a cause for concern. Not sure about your noise, could be several things.

Wow!! That is an overly wide image... Anyways, on the Engines Service part of the image, on the right side, it says auto trans uses AF3, which I assume is ATF Dexron III. It DOES take ATF in the transmission section. Make sure that you don't confuse the fill/dipsticks.

I have read that some people recommend resetting the ECU after an EGO sensor replacement... might this be relevant? Or is this just old wives tales?

ThePartsBin.com lists the same part number for main bearings for my 82 EA81 and my 88 EA82T, but doesn't have a listing for EA81 rod bearings. CSK lists the same Cleavite number for EA81 and EA82T rod, and same number for several companies for the main.

On all of my subes, the item you list as a resonator is the second catcon. (One catcon is a reducer, the other is an oxidixer). When a "resonator" is used, its main job is to muffle frequencies that the main muffler does not handle well.

I checked my 85, 87, and 88, and none of them seem to have that thingamabob. Of course, it is dark so maybe I just don't see it...

Could it be just your PVC?

The same way that you get to Carnegie Hall... Practice, practice, practice. Seriously, to paraphrase 85Sub4WD's advice: Just learn to drive a manual transmission as it was meant to be used, and as perfectly as possible. Trying to do the fancy stuff can destroy your clutch, your tranny, and possibly put you in peril when some trick shifting goes awry. Perfecting regular shifting will make it easier for you to learn (and perfect) the fancy stuff in the future if you still wish to do so. There is no advantage to upshifting without the clutch; it is slower and risks damage to the synchros. Good downshifting requires either a double-clutch technique or, if you want to go clutchless, really good experience with the vehicle and a good ear for engine speed. The clutch would be happiest and live the longest if it were an on/off device. Partially depressing the clutch is like the worst of all worlds for the clutch and transmission. Pulling the tranny out of gear without depressing the clutch is not necessarily damaging, but requires the same skill as clutchless shifting and just as pointless on the street. (Also, many/most US States require the car to remain in gear until you come to a full stop.) You should always put the car in neutral and foot totally off of the clutch while waiting at a stop; otherwise, you may end up having to pull the engine or tranny to replace a $10 throwout bearing caused by sloppy habits. Fancy shifting during street driving is about as appropriate as false-apexing corners on the street: It doesn't save you any time and makes your driving more erratic and less predictable to the other drivers. I think that you will impress more people with the smoothness of your perfected shifting than you would with clutchless shifting.

You should be able to get a generic Bosch 3-wire from NAPA, et al. If you can get there noses out of their books and just use the knowledge that they should have...

My radiator guy says that virtually all EA81 radiators are the same, at least as far as dimensions and, IIRC, mounts. There might be a difference in number of rows between NA and turbo. Good possiblility that if the stock radiator is single-row core then a radiator shop might be able to do a 2-row core for you.

I believe that it is what happens when you DO leave a "child behind". US English as learned through the media...

No specific knowledge of Subaru switches, but most cars use pin-switches that ground the wire attached to them when the door is open. Yes, this style of pin-switch often goes bad, more so in the bad ol' days when they did not put rubber weather boots over them. They corrode, get crud in them, break, short, open, blahh, blah, blah. The good news is that they are dirt simple switches and generally are easy to either repair or replace. It sounds like yours either stuck "closed" or the wire shorted to ground.

Folks, all I can say is.... Please take a Chemistry class, and pay particular attention to valances. What you are talking about with the "water-power" is worse than a perpetual motion machine, as you are planning on extracting 30+% of the energy during each use cycle. There is no magic to hydrogen, and it is being pushed because people think it is magic. It does not exist naturally in elemental form for very long because it is reactive, so there are no "stores" of it; it must be generated, usually by using some of our electrical capacity. Do we all remember how much spare electrical capacity we had a couple of years ago??? Due to the laws of physics, it takes more energy to generate hydrogen gas than it can release in our engines, so there is a net loss of energy in a hydrogen economy. Baccaruda, that was All-talk with the statically-adjustable cam sprockets.

Please follow Skip's advice and read the linked articles. ASV (Air Suction Valve) reeds are part of a one way valve between the intake and exhaust, used to introduce air into the exhaust for pollution control purposes. The reeds are thin, and eventually break, allowing exhaust flow into your intake system... a likely cause of the soot you see.

Exactly what I was thinking based on your title, and mostly because of Skip's help with Karin's problem. Might be able to verify by looking where the ASV hoses connect to the intake system and seeing if soot is between there and the carb.

Hey! Within 30 minutes of getting home I posted your answer. cut us some slack! I happen to have an FSM and a tranny sitting out of the car. Check your trhread for details. TTFN!

The vent appears to be on the differential section, about even with the most rearward bolt of the governor but just on the other side of the case's centerline. (Look where the ATF filler tube bolts to the tranny at the diff/main case joint, and the vent is just forward and above that.) I hope this helps.

That looks to me like the ASV (again, I am no expert on carb'd EA82s). According to my '85 FSM, the Cali version had only a driver's (left) side ASV, while the 49-state versions had variations that used ASVs on both heads. Some confusion might have occurred duriing your engine swap, so watch for mismatch issues. The black canister should be the silencer, which I believe is what Skip warned could/would get melted and cause FOD to your carburetor. Skip, thanks for the links. I had just seen Shawn's writeup last week, but couldn't remember who/where to recommend it to Karin.

Unless they changed the design from earlier, it only has a screen. Sometimes an inline filter is installed in the cooler hoses near the radiator. I would go with the governor cleanup first (no cost except your time), and I personally would disassemble it and debur/polish the sliding surfaces. BTW, I have lost a lot of confidence of late with "professionally" done things, so I am a little cynical and suspicious.

I have a young guy I work with who is very "in" to Japanese. If you want, I could have him look at it Tuesday night.

Not on the carb, but connected to the intake and the exhaust. Skip/others can tell you where to look on an EA82 (I don't have them), but if you look at your exhaust ports there should be one or more large (1" dia. ?) steel tubes that connect to the exhaust port area and travel upwards towards the air filter. Somewheres there should be a small-fist sized hunk of metal that is the reed valve housing. As I said, others know more...

Having recently looked at this, I have a little insight here... especially as I wanted to do something similar. Due to the design of the turbo on our cars, doing a variable inlet nozzle is difficult. An iris doesn't do much good, at least as I envision from your description, basically being perpendicular to the flow as a slide-throttle plate would be; this would merely act as an obstruction. Other mountings wouldn't work well with the turbo design. The inlet scroll decreases in cross section as it wraps around the housing, and the gas passage to the turbine blades is a slot on the inside of the scroll and along most of its length. The best way that I can see to provide any variable nozzle is to have a flexible "tongue" that can be extended into the scroll and pressed up against the slot, obstructing all but the end under low-flow conditions and retracting and exposing more of the slot as the flow increases. It would have to be thin to conform to the curvature of the scroll, but tough enough to handle the temperatures. As far as maintaining exhaust velocities prior to the turbo, I think that this is relatively unimportant, as the scroll provides the gas acceleration, relying on the heat and pressure to produce this acceleration. In fact the right side exhaust stub on the EA82T actually points back a little towards the left side port. Large pipes on the exhaust inlet side would promote lag by increasing volume which would take longer to be brought up to pressure needed by the turbo scroll. It would be nice to maintain velocities, but everything is made moot by half of the exhaust flow pointing backwards... $.02

No worries! I disagree with me at times. The carb on my Nissan engine uses a carb mounted solenoid to cut idle circuit during deceleration, but that doesn't mean that Subaru uses something similar. Skip's idea about the air valve is probably a good thing to check, and could definitely explain where the needed oxygen is getting in; only one of my Subes have these valves, so I didn't think of them. (I personally think that the mixture is still going rich, but opinions are like ***, we all have one. Some say that I have at least two! ) anyways, it should be easier to check the valve reeds than hunt down cause of rich mixture.

Are you sure it is a 3.70 ratio? Is this an auto or manual? I am pretty sure that my '87 manual twagon is a 3.90 (as you know, it is raining pretty hard right now so I am not going to lie in the mud to check ).