NorthWet

I doubt that mufflers will help, as it sounds like you have a classic case of running overrich mixture on overrun. this is caused by high vaccum conditions sucking excess fuel through the idle-circuit of the carb. Usually, cars have a dashpot or similar to keep the throttle from slamming closed when you suddenly get off of the gas. Some carbs also have an idle-circuit shutoff solenoid that takes care of this. I would look to see what your car is supposed to have and get it working. I blew up a muffler on my 510 due to this problem.

Around here, buy-back is around 10% of valuation. On really low-value (!!!) cars they will sometimes give it you for nothing or a nominal charge. They usually base it on how much they could get from a dismantler, and it sometimes costs the insurance company to have a dismantler take a low-value (!!!!) car.

*2nd edit* Is this an EA81 or an EA82? The following was assuming it was your EA81. *end edit* The computer uses feedback from the O2 sensor to vary the duty-cycle on one or two air-valve solenoids (dependent on carb model, IIRC) that bleed air into the jetting circuits of the carb. Essentially, without the ECU the carb will run a little rich, and with it working properly its bleed air will cause the carb to lean out. By varying the on/off times to the solenoid(s) the ECU can control the A/F ratio. On my 2-bbl Hitachi, the pair of solenoids is "USA drivers-side", and slightly rearward, of the carb. I would check for vacuum leaks and PCV operation, but its possible that the ECU has "passed on". Does the "code light" on the ECU (faces driver) turnon/blink? BTW, other than emissions and the usual problems of running slightly rich, disconnecting the ECU isn't damaging. Or, you can just disconnect the electrical connector(s) at the solenoids. *edit* How is the ignition system? Good NGKs and good plug wires? "proper" A/F ratio on your engine will put more stress on the ignition than the run-rich mode will. *end edit*

No gush of coolant? How quickly did the temp guage rise? "Really hot" should have given a gush, and it takes time to heat all of that water and aluminum, so the gauge shouldn't be quickly changing (i.e. 1-5 seconds to go from mid to hot is too quick, 10-30 seconds is more reasonable but still rather fast). If too quick, the sender/wiring/guage is probably malfunctioning. Just for grins and to be sure, I would replace the sender and check the visible wiring for worn insulation. It sounds encouraging that the engine was not too hot to touch, but that is kind of subjective. (It would be informative to me if I did it, but only you know you.) DON'T PANIC! (Sorry... a little Douglas Adams advice/humor.) Pat

Yes. My wife's 87 GL turbo-wagon was backed-over by a delivery truck about 2 years ago. The lift-gate on the truck buckled our hood and dented the tops of both front fenders (it hit just above the headlights/side-marker lights). This was $2500+ in damages, and the company valued the car at $850. (KB said $2200-2500, NADA said about the same.) Compare your damage to our hood and 2 removable fenders... I hope that I am wrong, but that doesn't seem realistic. You should look into whether or not you can buy it back, fix it to your satisfaction, and not get your title "branded" (unless you don't care if it is).

Did you have trouble taking them off a few weeks ago? And what kind of "different nuts" were put back on? Most exhaust manifold nuts, especially turbo and other high-heat, are a special alloy that tends not to rust and doesn't heat-weld or gall onto the studs. If you used plain ol' nuts from the hardware store you might have shot yourself in the foot. (I'm glad that *I* never did that! :rolleyes: )

Karin, the exhaust routing on Jim's turbo motor is significantly different from your carb'd motor's, at least until the midpipe (where the second cat lives). His pics might not be very illuminating. Jim, I would not worry too much about the heat shielding, except, as Miles warns, near the cv boot. I would be careful about "header wrap" as it tends to trap moisture/gunk and corrode the underlying pipe. (Maybe the current stuff is better than what was available in the 80's.) A good muffler (wo)man can do wonders, but I would ask them first as to which way works better for him/her. And are you having trouble with the turbo to downpipe nuts? Either way, penetrant oil, heat cycle, oil, heat... rinse, repeat. They are probably not tight, just corroded/galled/welded together. Patience is useful... or be ready to replace the studs. Good luck.

Hey Miles, forklifts tend to dig holes with their tires, and then you have to pull them out of the holes... lots harder than just a nice flat pull, and usually on soft ground to begin with. "Momentum" doesn't work terribly well when your moving car is 2000lbs and the stationary, stuck vehicle is 6000-12000lbs of cast iron on solid rubber wheels. It's obviously possible. But then again, its also possible to jump over 10 school busses in my sube. But I think that I will pass on both.

Ummmm... take a look at Emily's screen name... and read: CCR, Inc. Congrats, Emily. I am at least a little envious.

Funny that this came up right now: I just got my forklift certification, and they warned SPECIFICALLY against trying to use a car to pull our small 6000lb forklift out of a rut. Doesn't matter what gearing you have if the traction isn't there. Glad it worked for you, though.

mtnman has (had?) a 78 4WD that he has been trying to GIVE away and has had trouble getting takers. And...sorry, not up to another x-USA trip at the moment.

Sorry, I was a computer programmer so I still suffer from illiteracy. I just noticed this in your signature...

The REALLY ol' timers here in The States refer to it as bailing wire, as in, "It's held together with spit and bailing wire." Us younger ( ) kids prefer duct tape (aka "racer's tape").

Does your EA81T still have the automatic transmission? If so, could be ATF due to a bad vacuum modulator diaphram. If your oil pump is getting tired this may account for your oil pressure and maybe part of your hydraulic lifters not seeming to work. Also, could the "lots of blowby" just be because of the PCV system being marginal/plugged?

There are some pretty good buffer ICs out there. And the stock ECU uses neither conformal nor potting and they survive pretty well. I wouldn't get too worked up over it.

Miles was asking which is further from the engine centerline, the compressor or the alternator. If the alternator is further from the centerline (closer to fender) than the A/C compressor, then the A/C is "factory installed" and uses a certain set of parts. If the A/C compressor is outboard of the alternator then it is "dealer installed" and uses its certain set of parts. (Often (always?) the waterpump is different between dealer and factory A/C.)

The EJ is much heavier. I haven't weighed them yet, but there was a thread a couple of days ago discussing the weight of the EJ for shipping; guestimates were around 250-300 lbs (114-136Kg). I can easily lift an EA82 but have great difficulty with the EJ unless it is in a wheelbarrow (better handholds). (Oh, and I mean that I can lift them off of the ground or a bench, not up over my head. ) EA81s are even lighter and easier to lift and carry.

Info, please: a) Which engine Any other mods planned to go with this? C) Do you want to shift your power band up, down, or remain around the same RPM. In general, the fewer bends the better, the milder the bends the better, and maintaining a constant cross-section is important; all of these will halp limit unwanted pulse reflections. The length and cross-section of the primary pipe will help determine the power-band that the exhaust will work best at.

I don't think that that is an option as IIRC that is MRS. 86subaru's car! I would still keep a catcon on this, but just a high flow 3-way cat. I don't think the HP will increase as much as vanislru suggests unless your current catcons are clogged; unless you go to higher boost you should not see higher than original-stock HP. You probably would see less boost-lag, though. You might think about an intercooler, as it might give more real-world advantages.

I agree. NDs are pretty good, too. I've had bad experiences with almost every other brand over the last 30 years. I tried Champion' "copper core" then they first came out, and they had insulator breakdown after two weeks in my datsun! I have had similar experience with regular Champions, Autolites, and Bosch. Speaking of Bosch, I have tried their Platinums off and on for a couple decades and never seen any advantage to them; NGKs always made my cars run better. NGKs and NDs have never let me down.

It does not sound like an easy swap. An adapter plate is needed due to different bolt patterns and different bellhousing-to-clutch-surface dimensions (I have heard that the adapter plate needs to be 16mm to compensate). Do you know in what way it is dead? Is it an auto or manual? The auto seem to die one of two ways: Either "torque bind" or a blown seal. With the blown front seal it might be easier just to replace the seal than to try to mate the different engine and tranny.

Having just recently lifted both, I can tell you that there is a significant weight difference. I posted to your "wiring loom" thread with a question/idea that might help you get a loom.

Well, the mantra around here seems to be that every time the engine is out change the timing belts and reseal the oil-pump. Assuming that your oil guage is accurate (big assumption), I don't think that the indicated pressure is worrisome. Also, if you bumped, disturbed, or breathed-on the pressure sender before during or after the swap, or if you just have bad kharma, the sender could be way off. My car (formerly my wife's) has read oddly since its swap: It reads 0-5 when cold and -15 hot idle. :-\ The sender body has issues, and can be turned by hand...

I can't speak for others, but will anyways. I think the general reason for removing the hillholder is that it is not really needed for offroad, complicates the brake system, and poses another place of brake failure. Me, I like it. My wife liked it even more. If you plan on doing much city driving I would keep it and makei it work right. Very comforting to know it is there in case some fool climbs up your bumper on a hill.

Paul, is this really your birthday, or did someone just decide to see how many people they could sucker??? If it is true... * Today is Albert Einstein's birthday * Today is Pi-day - Math Nerds celebrate!!! Ya know how we feel about ya, ya big lug!