NorthWet

Man, don't you EVER sleep? My excuse is that I just got home from one of my works. Bedtime, then junk yarding. The PIC family is interesting because they offer so many memory/IO options and use the same basic processor core. Prices start at couple of bucks and don't get much if any above $20. If I had to design my own MS, that is the way that I would go. Thinking about doing an EDIS using a PIC. Also thinking about an MS post-processor, so that I can do dual injectors, sequential injection, and propane supplement.

Hmmm... I carried a 3AT 4WD using a cam-buckle tie-down as a shoulder strap. I wonder if that would work for the 4EAT? Oh, that's right... my shoulder looked skinned and bruised for a month afterwards.

oddcomp, I second shadow's suggestion of going PIC. Almost dirt cheap, common, and pretty powerful. I have had some ideas on other stuff to do with them. But it might take me an hour or two to learn how to program it.

My wife's 87 Twagon has been losing coolant, so she wanted it FIXED! So, on Sunday afternoon I started removing stuff to get at the usual suspects around the intake. First casualty was the plastic PVC "tree" behind the TURBO plenum, followed closely by one of the PVC hoses attached to it... and another. The second PVC hose that broke went back to the case breather, and it broke again trying to take it off of the case end. I then broke one of the plastic tubing-nipples off of one of the solenoids, and while removing it to repair it, broke off the other nipple and both vac tubes that had attached to it. The small coolant tube that runs from the TB area to the t-stat area also broke at both ends. The turbo outflow tube was in surprisingly good shape for being regular heater hose; it looked like PO had changed it recently. Oh, almost forgot: The radiator inlet broke. Plastic header, the plastic for some reason split along its circumference, breaking off a ring of the last inch of the inlet. Three hours after sunset, unable to feel 3 of my left-hand fingers due to the cold, I was finally done. Well, almost, as I couldn't quite seat one of the the airbox latches as my fingers were numb and the rubber MAF-to-turbo to was as stiff as a board. Guess I should go back and finish that. And my wife wonders why I don't want to fix "minor" things on her daily driver when I only have a free hour or two.

Thanks for the directions. If I'm coming up, maybe I will just give you a holler so you can come and help me pull that heavy SOG. Anybody already look at the fluids on the Legacy 4EAT? Any recent reports as to which Legacy engines might still be worth grabbing? Thanks again, Ed.

Welcome! Skip and 85Sub4WD gave you some good info/suggestions, so I am going to go for the obvious. Make sure that you change out those spark plug leads. My EA82T had odd misfire at various spots sprinkled throughout its RPM range, prob wherever the mixture leaned a bit or ignition conditions became a little tough. The best troubleshooting advice that I ever got was from a book I read some 30 years ago: Always make sure that the ignition system is right before messing with the intake/carburetion. (Of course, this was back when things were simpler, carbs didn't have wires, and their were only one or two vacuum lines on the whole engine. ) Good luck!

I would be totally amazed if they ran leaded gas in Japan. And the issue with valve seats and leaded-vs-nonleaded gas is almost exclusive to cast iron heads running native metal (as cast) valve sets, as opposed to separate seat inserts. Cast iron seats do not hold up well without lead/lead-substitute. All that is needed for these cast iron heads to handle non-leaded gas well is to replace the seats with hardened seats. Since all of our Subaru engines are aluminum headed which require seat inserts, and I have not heard of a modern, aluminum-headed engine that didn't use hardened seats, I wouldn't worry about running unleaded. Also, think about the way Subaru does things. Does it make any sense to design/build an engine differently for their domestic market vs USA, at least in some minor detail such as material of their valve seats? I have not heard of any of us older-gen types that use JDMs having any trouble with valve seat wear.

Your 3AT may just need some maintenace/attention; are you sure it is dead? Several PAP JY in the area (to be reduced by one after this weekend), but kind of a crapshoot with a used one. Sevearl used JDM importers in the area... 2 years ago the turbo 3AT was going for about $400.

Pretty sure that I am not. In general, I resist accepting help. I am able bodied, if feeling middle-age more than I should have let myself. Just the thought of wrangling yet another 4EAT around (did that between Laramie and Olympia just last month) fills me with dread. But... is for my wife's new Leg, so love will conquer all. Assuming I can make it up to Everett. BTW, where is it (never been), and how best to get there from northbound I-5? I would also like to know what its hours are. Might be able to hit it Thursday.

Carrying it in a straight line I might manage with or without wheelbarrow/gumba, but lifting/dragging it out of the car might be harder. Might have to take the engine, too, just to make it easier!

When I first looked into this, my local machinist (who would have done the resurface/valve job) said no problem, that they just bolt it to a plate and plug the appropriate holes... $100/head!!! Total quote for pressure check, resurface, and valve job was over $500. JDM engine was $750, with 140k less miles and gen3 heads. Guess which way I went? You got $200 to throw around? I would just look for the infamous exhaust port crack (pretty obvious on the head I saw it on, due to coolant marks on sooty port), and if I did't see it slap it on and see if it works. If you want them pressure checked, look for an automotive machine shop. NAPA-type places might do it, but an independent might be more likely.

First, welcome to the USMB, and welcome to Subaru ownership. You live in a good place for help, as there are a bunch of us nearby. Second, what transmission does the car have: Manual or automatic? I am assuming an auto, since the manuals usually aren't referred to as "burned up". If it is an automatic, is it a 3-speed (aka 3AT) or a 4-speed (aka 4EAT)? The shift trim should say either PRND21 or PRND32. The 3AT has some common maintenance problems that make it look like the transmission is dead. It is sensitive to its fluid, and only runs well when full of clean, non-overheated fluid. (Be aware that there are 2 dipsticks on the trannies: The forward one, over the front axles, is for differential oil.) If it is low, it will not shift or move right. If the fluid is low, and if you fill it you get white smoke out of the exhuast, the vacuum modulator (controls gear "kickdown") may be ruptured; a $10-30 part. If the fluid level is OK, the "governor" might have a problem; the governor control shifting in the "D" position. The governor is a removable part that is gear driven off of the differential section, and the gear can wear out or the valve it soins can stick, either of which will cause weird, or no, shifting. Back to your original questions: Subarus are like Legos, in that parts are very interchangeable. No change of bellhousing is needed in going between any of the transmissions in an engine series. Converting to 4WD is doable, but takes a fair number of parts from a donor vehicle. Again, welcome.

Thanks. Sounds like it would cost me more to hire gumba to help me lift and carry the tranny than to actually buy it.

Actually, it isn't the engine that would worry me, but rather the electricals. I still wake up in a cold sweat due to nightmares of Lucas, The Prince Of Darkness!!!

Thanks, Ed. As hard as it might be to believe, I haven't been to any of the PAPs up here, and it has been so long since I have been in any similar JY that I have no idea of pricing. So, the stupid question... Got a good guess as to what they charge for a 4EAT out of a Legacy? How about engine for same (I figure that this is harder, because I imagine they still charge for every little accessory/manifold/etc)?

I have a guess, but it is just based on the posts that mentioned that wagon was there. If it was either of those two, I think it got a good home. Though I wish it had been mine...

Well, DUH! on me. 81's have studs, something I am envious of for my 82's. Too much 82 on the brain of late. I don't remember a problem. Either I had a workable socket or removed the offending obstruction... too many years, too few remaining braince... oops, there went another!

Miles, unless Jim put in an FT4WD (in which case we wouldn't be typing, would we?) he doesn't have a center diff. The front and rear are in lock-step. Your idea of diagonal sounds OK, especially in an emergency; I'll have to remember that one. However, the idea should only work right in a straight line; as soon as you turn, things should get worse then a front set/rear set setup. And the "slipping" only works if you are on something that will let you slip. I haven't tried this, so I won't say it wouldn't work, just that it sounds off. And am pretty sure that mis-typed tires (mixed brands/treads) would handle REALLY weird on the diagonal. Maybe I will go out and try it... Later, Miles! Pat

Oops! Forgot about you being nearby. Sorry about that, Miles.

Hmmm... my current-to-date experience with "off road" is driving down my dirt driveway. Not too many ops on the highway to ingest water through the snorkus, even in Watershington. Problem (water in cyl) continued during warm spell.

Money-sink? All cars are, really. I would own and drive one if I could. Long trips, probably OK... depends like anything else on the particular vehicle. Day-to-day flogger, probably not a good idea. Might be OK, as the Jag 6 was pretty mature by that time. The prob with maintenance is that parts might be hard to get and expensive, and a mechanic that will touch it might be worse.

What is so special about the socket for the headbolt? I only did an EA81 HG once, and that was 10 years ago, but didn't need anything exotic. IIRC, it was either an 8mm or 10mm allens socket (I had one for my wife's Colt and one for my Datsun), neither cost me more than $5-$10 from S-K. Is my memory failing me?

I thought that you had already posted your 3-door for sale. Was I dreaming, or maybe psycho... er, psychic???

Ok, I'm fat, so what does that have to do with it? Besides, I prefer cake... chocolate if you must know. Glad you asked. Might be, but "sub-freezing" here means about 29-30 degrees. Not everybody opens up their refrigerator to get warm. :-p Also, had been driven the evening before. I certainly hope not... Currently: a) kingbodole: Stating the obvious monstaru: What is he talking about, what is he on, and why isn't he sharing? c) northguy: A lesson in counting d) XSNRG: Using logic, and questioning my ablility to observe an event not directly observable from where I was. e) Turbone: Being a killjoy and asking an obvious question f) operose: Owner overeats and is fat. g) northguy: (Persistance!) Cracked block. Anybody else?

Skip and Ross seem to have covered most of the stuff, but I will make a pitch for civic responsibility. Totally removing evaporative emissions control (charcoal canister) will cause a tremendous increase in pollution and neglible (if any) effect on efficiency/performance. It will uncutter the engine compartment. The direct venting of gas vapors will quadruple/quintuple the total emissions from your car. Might be nicer to just simplify it rather than remove it. My green $.02