NorthWet

Do you think that there is any/much interest in an electronic replacement? Shouldn't be too hard to do. Pat

I am definitely in for the fronts, probably for others but don't have time to think at the moment...

First things first... QUIT USING ALUMINUM!!! Copper has approx twice the heat transfer rate as does aluminum (or if you want to turn it around, aluminum has twice the resistance to thermal flow as does copper). Factor in density and its effects, and copper works even better. Copper also does not form a thermally insulative "skin" over time as does aluminum. Go to your local neighborhood private radiator shop and see about having a custom radiator built: Staggered row, straight fins (and of course it will be copper/brass). This style radiator will provide more rows in less thickness, the tubes peirce the fin plates so that they contact the complete circumference of the tubes instead of just part of the side, and the fins themselves are thicker and better louvered than standard radiators. This is the style that these shopes build for race cars, and the cost should be around $300 (more or less depending on your local cost of living). Best radiator money can buy... unless you go silver, or diamond processing gets better. Cpt. Copper

You didn't mention if it was a 3-speed or a 4-speed auto tranny. The 3-speed (aka 3AT) is pretty much like Trogdor said. The 4-speed (aka 4EAT) is a different beast. With either, you may have a blown shaft seal causing the leak. If it is a 3AT, again, follow Trogdor's advice and check the vacuum modulator and its hose. Our 3AT ruptured the diaphram on its vacuum modulator, sucked several quarts of ATF into the engine (prev owner), ran low on fluid and burned the fluid, and gummed up the governor valve.

Stock timing is usually a compromise on the conservative side. So, no, I am not really advocating it, just think that people should think about why they are doing it instead of assuming that more is better. A carburetor with a single 10"...er, 254mm, barrel wouldn't work well on an EA-series engine, and neither will 120deg of ignition advance. There is a balance,a sweet-spot, somewheres. More is not always better.

The turbo in and of itself is not much of a problem... it is the lack of low end torque caused by the low CR that annoys most people. The turbo just does its thing to make life more fun in the upper half of the rev range. Turbos also are pretty dirt simple to deal with. And as far as replacing MPFI with a carbureted engine, it is not much of a problem (mostly ditching unneeded stuff) but will make it impossible for you to pass emissions testing. (Yes, Miles, he gets to deal with that.) Regarding CRs, the pistons determine that, with the turbos being dished and the carbs being flat(?). If you put the turbo heads on a carb block you would have the carb CR and MPFI. If you put the carb heads onto the turbo block you would get a dog. If the tranny is the problem then it probably just needs some maintenance: Fluid change, check vacuum modulator for diaphram rupture, clean-up the governor. If need be, I think I know where to find an AT for it, interim or long term. Remember, you have others near by to help you get this going.

How many angels DO fit on the head of a pin? Translation: I imagine that the surface variation of ANYTHING that you attach to the surfacing surface will have a greater variation than the surface's flatness spec. The particles on the emery cloth, not to mention the backing itself, almost certainly has a greater variation. As someone said, the lapping process should tend to even things out anyways...

What the resistance in the high-voltage circuit does is affect the peak voltage, how quickly the voltage is reached, and how long a sparking voltage is achieved. The wire resistance, in series with the coil inductance forms an RL circuit; RL circuits have a time constant that causes the discharged energy to increase at a slower rate, peak at a lower value, decrease at a slower rate, and thus spread the discharged energy over a greater timespan. From an EMI point of view, what this does is make the radiated EMI of lesser strength, lesser "frequency", and spreads it over a longer period of time. No short, sharp shocks. (Sorry Pink Floyd.) From the spark plugs' point of view, the energy is potentially ( ) spread out over a greater time frame with a lower peak, which might make the plugs last longer... but the maximum firing power is also reduced, so they are more prone to misfire.

For those interested, the type of glass you want to use is plate-glass (as in "plate-glass window"). It is thicker, flatter and smoother than regular float-glass that you would use in residential windows. I also have seen it done before, and if I recall a friend used that method to clean up my EA81 head once upon a time. This method can be used for other flattening tasks, and if you need a smoother surface you can get various grinding and lapping compounds.

I have mentioned it elsewhere, but will do so again for tuning neophytes: Advancing the timing does not necessarily increase power. Given any combination of static conditions (engine design) and dynamic conditions (temp, A/F ratio, RPM, fuel quality, etc) there is an optimal ignition timing, and advancing the ignition beyond this point will reduce developed power. As a corollary, the better the engine design, the less ignition advance is required. The more advance you need to add, the less potential the engine has for making power.

Looks that way to me.

In what way "figured out"? As in stock dimensions of stock bushing (doesn't sound likely, you being you), or what style of bushing to use as a replacement, or ??? The T/C rod on my Datsun (similar to the brake reaction rod on the subes, just pointed the other way) had several styles of replacement made for it. One was an aluminum cup (ball socket?) that went against the frame bracket and a delrin hemisphere to ride in the socket. Should also be some PU stock-style replacements. Heim joints are a little harsh... If I am way off base, just ignore me... as usual. ALMOST forgot: Great work! I have been planning on building my own bushings, and/or making control arms that would fit some popular app like a WRX...

Ummm... if the knock sensor and controller are working OK, you should not notice any real pinging. Anybody know for sure what the knock sensor controller's strategy is? As in, does it retard the spark in big hunks or little hunks, frequently or infrequently ("wait a moment and see"). BTW, it is actually possible to advance the timing beyond where the engine will ping. Accidently did that to a car once.

Thanks craven, you beat me to it! Thanks for the plug. Pat

I agree with calebz... but then I probably have a different view of rust then people in your region. I look to see how much moss is growing on the car, not how many rust holes it has. If the moss in the rain gutters is over 3 inches high, then you know it has been sitting for a couple of years.

Fairfield area, IIRC. Drove past the base signs quite a bit commuting between Silicon Valley and Dog's Country.

Maybe part luck, maybe part good engineering and quality control. I haven't heard of an engine out of Nippon that required selective bearing sizing because of production variances, unlike my 'merican V8. (Hard to buy a set of "some this size, other this size, and one a little bit bigger".) ...just a thought...

NOT an expert, and haven't looked at any of mine, but I think that is a pump-killer. I also have my doubts that your removing could have broken it (unless you were using a prybar). Unless I miss my lazy-a** guess, that is the mounting flange on the shaft-bearing housing (not what it is really called I am sure, but should be descriptive). Unless you strong-armed this to get it out, there may be even more internal damage that got you the broken flange. Just my 2 cents, and ignore it if somone with more knowledge (or ambition ) tells you otherwise.

I do not see any reason why you couldn't, other than needing to fabricate new levers/linkage/trim. The one lever goes to separate actuators on the tranny. Once upon a time I pulled my rear axles so that I could use the low range for rush hour traffic... crawl isn't just for mud! I am pretty sure that the two functions are linked for user "convenience" rather than necessity.

Is that a Z20/22/24? FI or carb? Got a Z20 in my 510... hmmm...

8500 miles driving a Ford Exploder towing a Subaru. One leg, towing a Legacy with its tow dolly ON TOP OF a car trailer... 5000+lbs ... through the Rockies/Wasatch/Sierra Nevadas. Got home and into my T-wagon, and I was in heaven.

Any engine that uses torque-to-yield bolts should not be retorqued and the bolts should not be reused. The clamping force will not be right. These bolts are torque once, throw away.

More than one. Pat ("Patrick" only if I am in trouble.)

I am not familiar with CA rules, but will help with OR and WA info. Is the guy you talked with the property owner? Was the car owner a renter/tenant? If both are true, there is usually a provision for the property owner to file a "landlord lien" or similar, which allows him to legally dispose of the car. There should be paperwork that he can get from, and file with, DMV. Once this paperwork is filed, there might be a requirement for him to try and contact the previous owner, but this is kind of similar to the "Public Notices" that you see in the paper: More a legal formality than an actual need to contact owner. Once all of this is done, and maybe some more paperwork, DMV should be able to issue you a clean title. One possible fly in the ointment here is that CA has tried to encourage people to scrap older vehicles, and this attitude might make this procedure different or nonexistant in CA. Good luck. No Subaru deserves to rot or get crushed because someone abandoned it. Pat

"What do YOU care what other people think?" (Title of a book by a Nobel Laureate in Physics) "The girls go by, dressed up for each other." (Line from a Van Morrison song) "You can't please everyone, so you got to please yourself." (Line form a Ricky Nelson song) Pick one of the above or one of your own. If you look for approval or affirmation form others, you are likely to be disappointed. Determine whose opinions are trustworthy and really matter to you, and take counsel from them. If you listen to everybody, then you will find that most people don't give a tinker's cuss about YOU or what you do; people who race have an ego, and that ego usually focuses their thoughts towards themselves. Shadow has no vested interest in beating you on the track (as far as I know), and his advice sounds pretty solid to me. TTFN! Pat