NorthWet

Might have the MAF for you. Came from moosens a couple of months ago. Ask Paul if the one he sent with me will work.

The best way to scan would be to unbind the pages so that they lie perfectly flat on the scan bed. It is possible to rebind the manuals afterwards, but...

I'll put myself in as Tailend-Charlie for 1600 pistons. Also interested in exhaust flanges (with a bit of stub left) from EA82 and/or EJ22. Also EJ22 pulleys and/or timing case parts.

Sounds unlikely that you would get external, engine compartment steam off of a blown HG. I would check intake gasket and hoses. If blown HG, much more likely to get steam out exhuast and/or water in oil. BTW, I have noticed over the years that if the coolant level is low then the temp gauge can read normal until engine is severely overheated, because sender unit isn't getting any real water flow over it. It will start reading hot only when the steam starts hitting it.

Does Subaru still sell FSMs for Loyale and earlier models? If not, it might be interesting to explore sacrificing a copy of each in order to make manuals on CD/DVD. I might be game to do the work.

I'm not talking about cable adjustment. I am referring to excess "stiction" in the cable, possibly contributed to by poor routing of the cable. I am assuming that the pressure plate clamping force (spring rate) in the XT is roughly equivalent to that of my 82 wagon, my 87-and-up twagons, and my 88 SPFI. If the PPs are reoughly the same, and the release arm and its pivot (lever ratio) is the same, and the pedal-box geometry is roughly the same, then the pedal effort should also be roughly the same... not different by a factor of 4x of so.

I had a thought regarding slipping new-ish clutches, complained about particularly on EA82(t)s: How many people that have slipping problems have a stiff clutch pedal? I had taken it for granted that Subaru clutches were stiff to operate until my recent purchase of an XT. The XT has a pedal force similar to Datsuns and Toyotas that I have driven, which are very light (1/4 the effort of my twagons). Is the difference in stiffness because of cable/actuator friction/binding? If so, this works both ways: It will reduce the clamping force of the pressure plate because it is equivalent to someone "riding" the clutch pedal. Just a thought...

As others have oft said, "A leaky Subaru is a rust-free Subaru." My personal feeling is that a good condition Hitachi is as good as a good condition Weber. The Hitachi fits, hooks into existing lines and wiring, etc. Unless you go to better manifolding (intake and exhaust) and probably cam work, a better/bigger carb is not going to offer much. A new Weber IS better than a tired Hitachi, though. I don't have quick access to vacuum diagram for your car (though I can get it), but others do. And it should be on a sticker on the bottom side of your hood. This site is great. I have benefited greatly from the collective knpwledge of the members. Just be wary of anybody who says that they "had a problem that is exactly like" yours; they are unlikely to know your "exact" problem.

Typically, the aluminum "TURBO" plenum pops loose from its rubber and clamps. Take a look at both turbo outlet and TB inlet.

I ran across cylinder o-ringing back during my first go-round with turbos... back in the mid-70s. Most people then either went dry-deck or used separate o-rings for the water/oil passages. They were also doing it mostly with castiron blocks/heads (usually in the head, IIRC), and using copper wire (better crush).

Does your client run without standard HG or HG w/o-ring? If without, does he/she run a dry deck or o-ring the oil/water passages?

Oddcomp is running it, and I believe shadow also knows tech stuff. I have MegaSquirt pages bookmarked... somewheres. MegaSquirt is the fuel management portion of the system, and uses a Motorola 68000-series micro as its processor. It does not use the MAF, but rather a MAP sensor onboard. Very tunable/configurable. EDIS is an adaptation of the Ford Electronic Distributorless Ignition System. It uses a crank-mounted reluctor ring and sensor to trigger a coil-pack (one coil output per cylinder) in a wasted-spark manner. MS and its variants are offered in kit form (around $200), and some people are marketing turnkey systems (2-3 times as much).

Your wagon came with an EA82-series engine. It has overhead cams, while the "earlier" (though they were also in a different body style at the same time as your EA82 wagon) EA81 uses pushrods to operate the valves. The EA82 was offered in a few minor variants, so it is useful to USMB folk to know if yours has a carburetor, SPFI (Single Point Fuel Injection - aka throttle body FI), MPFI (Multi-Point FI), or turbo. Welcome. You have found a very nice group of people.

To get "raw data". If it were after the catalyst, the results would be affected by the redox products of the catalyst(s). What you want for A/F ratio control is what comes out of the ports. Granted, the difference would be minor, but there you are.

Sorry, no update yet. Between being home only 3 hours between each shift (buddy, you are cutting into my sleep time! ) during the week and last weekend's PAP specials, I haven't done a darn thing yet. I am hopeful for this weekend.

I doubt that it is the clutch disk backwards. The difference in spline length (the "offset" if you will) is near an inch... I don't htink that you could have even started the PP bolts if the disk was backwards. I have used engine/tranny bolts to pull the two together, but not as the "only" way to do it... I never forced it. Is this on your EA81 engine with EA82 tranny? I think that others have said recently that there are throwout bearing compatabulity issues. Might be wrong here...

Setting the record straight: Ed did NOT, in fact, do any cussing. This was poetic license being taken by someone who has so little sense as to manhandle an engine and tranny together in a wheelbarrow, push said wheelbarrow a couple hundred yards across a dirt yard, up a ramp, and into a building, then LIFT the engine/tranny together... ... just to save $30. :-\ Ed was a prefect gentleman. Well, nearly perfect. And Ed was the one that got the EA81 radiator. I just lifted it with my stuff as an attempt to partially repay his help... and to see if I could do it. The SPFI was the one near the Legacy automatic. The Ej22 engine was the one in the 5-speed AWD near the back. I had gone back to yank the tranny (thinking encore of my earlier EA82 lift) but someone had already grabbed the tranny. But that left only the exhaust bolts and engine mount to undo, so why not? Sleep time, so type at you later!

I closed down the Everett PAP today. Ed, if you thought the 4EAT was a feat, you should have seen me lift an SPFI with attached D/R 5 speed. Didn't lift it much, but did do so. The "all you can carry" thing was kind of stupid, and resulted in bizarre sights (and not just of me.) Someone cut a Saturn body in two, stood each half on its cut end, and lifted them from the inside. I'm tired, I'm sore, and I have to go to work in a couple minutes.

Ed, what prompted you to resurrect this thread? (I'm interested due to my sticky in MarketPlace.)

If nobody answers first, I will check later. BTW, if you are home and bored, I am making one last trip to Everett PAP. Leaving now. Pat

No direct experience (yet), but from what I have read here the damage is not usually immediate, especially for short distance tows. Problems often appear several months later, which makes it hard to get tow companies to take responsibility. Do you know if they used the rear wheel dollies? They do that almost exclusively around here if they don't use a flatbed. If so, no worries.

Realistically, the Holley 390cfm didn't give much, if any, more oomph than the 2bbl off of an '80 Nissan 2liter. The Holley looked cool and sounded cool when the secondaries opened, but kept having things vibrate off... like a primary aux venturi! I would stick with a good condition 2bbl or EFI.

Mule - n.: Sterile crossbreed of horse and a**... I mean, donkey.

For several years, I ran a Holly 390 cfm 4bbl on my L20B Datsun engine. It ran beautifully until the carb died due to vibration. Not a cheap carb, though.

Finally got to meet edrach. Super guy. Ed hung around after he grabbed his stuff and helped me pull an EJ22, the 4EAT, and most of the front suspension off of the Legacy. He did more than half of the wrenching, at least half of the lifting, and all of the swearing. Things came apart easier after we found the bolt that we had overlooked. I think that Ed stayed and helped just to see if I could lift all of the cr*p that I wanted. We used a tie-down to wrap up both strut/brake assemblies, one control arm, starter, tranny xmember, and a bag of parts and bolts. We then set an EA81 radiator on top of that, I lifted the bundle, and paid the $30. Next came the 4EAT, and then the EJ22. After Ed left, I went back to see what else I could scrounge. I decided that I should grab the intake system and accessories for the EJ22 (the one I grabbed didn't have any), got some small odds and ends for my T-wagons. I was torn between 2 SPFI engines: One was ready to lift but looked like it had been sitting for a long time, and the other looked better but was still attached to stuff. Also looked at a D/R 5-speed. In the end, just got the intake and stuff 'cuz I ran out of time. Oh, to help my kharma, I told the people behind me in line that they could put their taillight and fender on my pile to be lifted... they had prev suggested that I just lift the wheelbarrow instead of trying to tie up all of the little stuff. They saved me a hassle, I saved them $30. (They gave me $7 bucks anyway. ) Thinking about playing hookey tomorrow. Might be nice to grab that EJ 5-speed, and ... and ... I don't think that my wife will let me, since I am spending our Brat-fund money. BIG thanks again to Ed. Sorry about not stopping by on my trip home, but I wanted to hit Fry's before it closed to see if it stocked resistors for my clock repairs; some success, I think