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NorthWet

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Everything posted by NorthWet

  1. AAAAHHHHGGGG!!! What happens beyond the first major obstruction to pressure waves (e.g. muffler/catcon) DOES NOT effect scavenging. Scavenging effect is caused by positive/negative pressure waves being reflected from transitions in the pipe and appearing at the valve at times that will positively influence air flow at the valve. The first major obstruction is like a dampener to the pulses, and by the time the pulse tries to make two transits of the obstruction it has no real effect... not to mention that its timing will be so wrong as to be harmful. Although there MAY be something to gas velocity, it would exist in the primary/secondary exhaust tubing, and really is just not letting the velocity change significantly from what is seen at the exhaust port... as a change in velocity would be caused by a change in passage crossection/area, which in turn would cause a major pulse reflection node.
  2. Having once owned an older British car (58 Triumph), I can tell you that the Jag will be a blast to drive, but you will still need the Subaru to go get Jag parts.
  3. Let's see... ... and hour and a half to drive down... ... 2 hours to pull the engine quietly in the dark... ... and an hour and a half back... ... Home in time for cornflakes!!!! Priceless! MwuHaHaHaHA
  4. Front: 20½" Rear : 19 '87 twagon with 185/70 tires. 70lb of cargo in it.
  5. "There but for the grace..." This is especially poignant for me, since just last week I was talking with a lady from MADD who had brought an accident demo to the school. The car on the trailer was a newer Honda that had gotten center-punched just like Laura's Brat, but the Honda had gotten it in the driver's door. Three souls in the car, only the front passenger survived. The damage to the impact area looks as same as could be, almost a perfect imprint of the striking car's front end. I am amazed that anyone could come out of that kind of accident and still be able to IM someone. Laura, I hope that you are reasonably OK, and that if not that you get better soon. Follow the doctor's advice, as some of the damage might take a day or two to start hurting and might take along time to get rid of totally. And what a horrible thing to happen to what looked like a beautiful vehicle. Take care, and get well. Pat P.S. - Thanks, WJM.
  6. Check with 86subaru (near Dayton) or Alleyboy (near Columbus). They are a lot closer and have a pretty good handle on local parts.
  7. Nothing occurs in a vacuum... except astronomical things. Any change to the exhaust system does not really do much good unless you make complimentary changes to the intake and the valve timing. It is all a connected system. In general, if you want more low end torque, go with longer (and narrower), primary pipes on the exhaust, longer/narower intake runners, smaller carburetor primary throat (if carbed), and a more conservative cam (or at least adjust its base timing). All of these will shift the torque curve lower, and kill the power on the top end. Doing just some of the above will shift the torque curve lower, but will also likely lower the peak and make it lower at other odd places. And still kill the top end. In general, your best bet is to make sure that the ignition and fuel system is perfoming optimally. You can do pretty much anything after the catalyst/muffler to reduce backpressure (which, despite what others say, no engine needs to work right).
  8. You trying to take the fun out of this? If I answer this then who will continue to post??? Actually, I forgot this little detail when I started this. Thanks for reminding me (and yes, I had looked at this already). Currently: a) kingbodole: Stating the obvious monstaru: What is he talking about, what is he on, and why isn't he sharing? c) northguy: A lesson in counting d) XSNRG: Using logic, and questioning my ablility to observe an event not directly observable from where I was. e) Turbone: Being a killjoy and asking an obvious question Anybody else?
  9. Ok, I will split the difference here. To run in 4WD, you really should have (need) 4 matching tires of same brand/style. To run in 2WD only, this is not much of an issue. BUT... Tires that are nominally the same size aren't always actually the same size. I needed to put some tires on the front of my wagon that still had some tread, and "borrowed" a pair from one of my other projects. Same nominal size, but height is different by 1/2-1 inch. Put the car into 4WD on a rain drenched highway and went into immediate bind at freeway speed. And just because the sizes match and/or you are running in 2WD does not mean that mixing is OK. Same wagon, same tire setup, the handiling is just plain squirrely. The front tires have a harder compound and less lateral stability; they spin on drive pavement and "hunt" into every groove and irregularity on the road. Meanwhile, the Michelins in back behave properly, which is no good with the fronts going there own way. My nightly drive home with sub-freezing tires on an oddly-grooved two-lane is quite exciting. So, Jim, yes you can do it, and as long as you know what to expect YOU will do OK. I wouldn't recommend this for an inexperienced or less competent driver; too many chances to end up in a ditch if something else happens.
  10. I am only about 75% sure... I was in the driver's seat. I just (this afternoon) used my remote starter, and nothing came out (after running for 10 minutes Wednesday to move it and sitting since then). After clearing any possible fluid, i did a compression test.
  11. How else do you fix bad old Subarus but to use bad old Subaru parts??? Isn't there a marsupial that fills that niche? OH, sorry, I was thinking Tasmanian... natural mistake. So, so far we have: a) kingbodole: Stating the obvious monstaru: What is he talking about, what is he on, and why isn't he sharing? c) northguy: A lesson in counting NEXT!
  12. I have spent too many hours working recently, so thought I would start something silly, so: Guess why my XT has water in the cylinder. Ok, so this isn't much of a game, since there are really just 2 main causes. But then again, maybe I am being optimistic that even 2 people will respond! Ok, 88 XT MFPI (spider manifold), 5-speed. Bought Christmas Eve, PO said that former BF said that HG was blown. Drove it 70 miles home with some heating up (radiator is 2/3 plugged, running the heater brought the temp to normal). Later, drove 320 mile trip over Cascade passes. Sub-freezing morning (coolant had very little anti-freeze), started it up with difficulty (possible water in cyls then), got on freeway onramp to the accompaniment(sp) of a THICK cloud of something behind me (before sunrise, couldn't tell color but could guess). Temp climbed dramatically. Parked it, came back that afternoon, aded water and limped it back home. Three weeks later, pulled passenger side plugs and cranked, with 2 spouts of water from the plug holes. I am about to tear into it and thought I would se who would be the first to correctly guess what I will find. Maybe I will send the winner the appropriate bad gasket/part...
  13. The crystal ball is very cloudy... it is clearing now... and it says... Check the ECU codes. My WAG is the MPFI's coolant thermosensor.
  14. They are all pretty much the same. There are some body differences (wagon's rear-side windows, the tailgate window and its mounting), but mechanically and electrically they are the same. The Loyales, from what I have read and figured out, were "entry-level" Subarus after the Legacy line was introduced. As such, they have little standard equipment and weren't usually optioned well ("might as well buy a Legacy"). I have both (now, all three!), and haven't found a major difference yet. (The clock connectors are different, but that is it so far.) Fear not!
  15. AT should be 23 spline, MT should be 25. Others will be happy to tell you if I am wrong. Otherwise, take a look first.
  16. The wire/connector damage that I am talking about really isn't a problem with wire guage... more of a problem with connector and, I believe, tension on the wire. On the latter, I don't think that Subaru allowed enough slack in the line, so there is a little too much tension pulling at the connector and the wire going into the connector (especially as the wire jiggles over bumps), generating a bad electrical connection and resulting in higher than anticipated resistance, resulting in overheating. eponodyne, your problem is probably just the age old one of the electrical traces acoss the glass being broken somewhere. Sometimes when the glass is fogged and the break isn't total, you can see where the break is by looking for a spot of cleared glass on the otherwise nonworking line. Or you can take a volt meter and look for where the voltage disappears/reappears on each trace. As mentioned, you can get conductive-ink pens to fix this problem, and prevent it by not letting cargo, etc, touch the rear glass.
  17. There have been a couple of locals-to-me that have done it. And, practically speaking, the very common crossover-pipe fracture ends up giving a low-to-non-boost engine. It will feel a litle weak, especially compared to a standard XT6, but i suspect that it will still have enough oomph to get out of its own way. Other than down on power, I wouldn't expect any other problems.
  18. The numbers that I have seen before are around 1.5-6HP depending on size, etc. So minimum electric motor is equiv to starter motor... If you still want to use that much electricity, maybe a motor like they use in carting would work.
  19. Listen to hooziewhatsit... if I had seen this first it is exactly what I would suggest. The wagons seem to have a common problem of this connector burning and pulling apart. So far I am 2 for 2 on this problem, and I expect to be 3 for 3 now. The connector is under the large plastic trim panel on the tailgate (like you were going in to check on the lock/latch mechanism) and is secured to a portion of the tailgate near the lock/latch mechanism (near center/center, but off to driver's side a little). After a fuse, this is the next place that I would look.
  20. Direct replacement. As long as you can unbolt the old (can be issues getting clearance) and replace with new it is pretty easy. Brake line is connected through a flange on the strut tube, so either brake line has to be disconnected (messy, and have to bleed) or flange can be doctored a little with a hacksaw to allow line to slip through. (I prefer the latter, but I did it because it makes future maintenance easier.)
  21. I understand that stock APC doesn't control timing, but knowing the way you like to hack things (and your kids, too, from what I hear!) I thought you might have done something there.
  22. I agree that the FSM resistance specs are there to determine if OE wires are failing. The EMI issue has to do with FCC regulations. The real issue with the wires being good or not is how long before insulator breakdown, and how long before conductor failure. These are things that only time will tell.
  23. Aluminum is evil! See my post on your other thread about fans, etc. Aluminum is used because it is cheaper than copper, not because it is better. Really, aluminum is the wrong way to go for anything that needs thermal transfer.
  24. With or without APC? And if with, controlling boost or timing or both?
  25. Same plugs my Datsun runs... same plugs my Honda 350 ran 30 years ago. Another reason to love NGKs.
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