NorthWet

You would be the "Eric" on my answering machine? (Only got one message, BTW.) Sorry, I was gone all day Sunday... took one kid to the airport, reinstall another at college in Ellensburg, stuck in post-game traffic. (I am also a Luddite when it comes to caller ID... don't have it, don't want it. Pushed Telco to do their jobs for over 10 years; they then started selling call lists to telemarketers, and offered CallerID as the "solution" to the problem that they created. I have little issue with the trades-folk, just everybody above them. End rant.) Again, sorry for the PITA. Let me know what I can do to make it up to you. Pat

Shawn, thank you for the bigger inbox, but I don't deserve the donor status. The people just feel happy right now... they will BE happy (hopefully) in a few days. TTFN! Pat

Not right off hand... just lived through it. Octane used to be stated as either "Motor" or "Research" Octane. Then around the first energy circus... er, crisis in the early 70's they made a "new" number which was (M+R)/2... an average of the two numbers. Usually ended up with gas of poorer quality being labeled with a higher octane number.

kind of replied to your PM... now I need to go take a nap before my second shift of the day... to be followed 3 hours later by tomorrows first shift...

Regarding octane, are we talking the same rating system? The USA adopted a screwy system in the 70's.

OK, OK already! Made some more room, but hurry, 'cuz it's going fast! :-p Snowstormer, got your PM re tranny. I'll throw it in and try to find the shifter soonest.

I hadn't heard of the dual-range 4EAT, though that doesn't mean much. Any chance that you could drop one in the post for me???

RPM... about 8000 of them. 9000 would be better.

The 4EAT 4-speed auto can be swapped in. Drops the RPM to the low-to-mid 2000s at cruise. Your engine will run almost forever at 3200rpm, though.

I found some suitable ones at Home Depot in the plumbing section. Not Nitrile or Viton, but what do you expect for 25cents???

I agree, although this is just based on my instinct. It seems to me that the stock heat shielding would mitigate most of this problem, and enhanced shielding would all but eliminate it. One or two inches of airspace would not make as much difference as properly designed heat shielding. My opinion is that the radiated heat would only raise the head exterior temp a few tens of degrees, relatively insignificant... assuming good coolant flow. I have some other thoughts, and plan on starting a thread and asking for some info from you folks with more "history" with the problem.

HEY! It's cool and all, but... ...You are *KILLING* by business!!! How am I is supposed to eat??? Oh, that's right.... I do it for free. :-\ Ne-ver-mind.

Axles: Auto and Manual have diufferent spline count (23v25,IIRC). Diff: Auto is a 3.70 ratio, and "normal" manuals are 3.90. Auto Transmission: Governor has a couple things that can go wrong, so it depends on what was repaired/replaced before. An obvious problem is a stripped ("apple-cored") driven gear. Replacement is needed, uncertain how long replacement will last. The other problem is gummed up governor valving; this is an easy fix, requiring that the valve mechanism be disassembled, edges deburred, sliding parts polished and cleaned *meticulously* and reassembled. Dirty/burnt ATF will cause governor problems. Governor problems are easy enough to evaluate and repair. Another common problem is ruptured vacuum diaphram. White smoke, ATF loss, overheated ATF because of lowered level, burnt ATF gums up governor... Doesn't reduce your options... sorry.

My tangential questions were about the cause of cracking, probably the main worry we all have about power increases in the EA82T. Where I was going was that if the castings are the same (except for final machining of holes and threads) then the likely cause of the cracking is fairly situational... things are different on the passenger-side (LHD markets) of the engine. Some have suggested cooling passage issues or oil passage for turbos, etc, but a member was recently talking about how poor the stock fuel distribution rail is, possibly causing overly lean conditions in the passenger-side. So, in answer to your question, *IF* the cooling is optimized, and *IF*the fuel mixture is even and proper, IMHO there is no big reason why a non-turbo EA82 couldn't put out the "magic" 100bhp/liter (180HP). A turbo should be able to make at least 50% more.

$71/hr shop rate is about par. Shop has to cover overhead, like paying the people who actually do the work, Lease/Mortgage, Insurance, boat payment, vacation home...

Oil line boss is in both castings? (I'm too lazy to walk 10 yards to look )

Silly question, have to leave so no time to research and will forget by the time I get home... Are left and right heads interchangeable? In other words, is the casting the same and just situational diferences that cause the cracking?

HaHaHaHaHaHaHaHa!!! I could get one near to you... PA, maybe VA depending on the regional members. They might be willing to arrange shipping the rest of the way.

Well, just shoehorn a 'Cuda engine into your GL. I'm sure you will get noise. SSCCCRRAAPPPEEEE!!!

It might not help you now, but I plan on trying my hand making a couple of my own soon (Feb?). If you haven't found something good by then, let me know. The question you should ask yourself, Alan, is: Do you want power or a noise maker? "Free-flow" and "reasonably quiet" are not opposites.

I think someone was arranging with mudrat... XSNRG? Can't remember, too few brain cells. And I was going to give this a bump the other day, but got distrac... OOOHHHH!!! Shiney!!! ..uh, sorry. I was going to type some inane drivvel about remembering that this is about the '73 and your buddies, not the delivery boy. This is a car party, so do car party food and stuff. Soon, very soon!!! Looks like I get to borrow a 4x4 Explorer for the trip. WOOT! A radio!

My current plan had been to come back through Ohio/Missouri and head towards Reno... but it looks like I will be making a delivery to the Twin Cities area in MN, so SD might not be too far(ther) out of the way.

For future reference (like when reassembling): I do something similar, but less likely to get a metric combo wrench in my forehead (bad things happen to good people ). I use a length of chain between pp bolt and stud (or bolt in hole).

He knows how much the waiver cost... after dealing with emissions for several days I don't believe he was a happy camper. (I've been there, too.) That "new" O2 sensor (installed recently by another mech) that S.Sea guy pulled out did not look anything like new. And, amazingly, a brand-new-out-of-the-box Bosch O2 sensor worked wonders! He did seem VERY happy with this S. Seattle guy, who, BTW, can issue waivers.

Isn't the compressor an "on demand" thing? That is, the system should try to satisfy its needs from the tank, but when tank pressure is too low the compressor cycles on. If so, this would indicate that the system pressure is too low, or the pressure sensor is bad. If the sensor is ok and the pressure is low, either compressor is not working right or there is a leak. The fly in my reasoning is, what happens when the strut/shock does not reach its height? Does the system freak? Miscellaneous ramblings... more time to think tonight during my hours of mind-numbing labor.