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Everything posted by NorthWet
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Does the oil look kind of like a chocolate milkshake? All of it, and not just at dipstick or filler tube?
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Cam Carrier Removal Question
NorthWet replied to Deener's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
GD is pretty local to you, and probably has a really good handle on where to get tools for this job. McMasters is often mentioned, but I have no clue how broad of stuff they carry. -
85 Brat accelerator lag
NorthWet replied to toohey.michael's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Probably an accelerator pump issue on the carb. I seem to recall it is fairly common for the pump's seal to leak. A quick check would be to pull the air cleaner cover, look down the throat of the carburetor (preferably when the engine is off; singed eyebrows are SOOO last Millenium!), and work the throttle a few times to see if you can see gas squirt out of the pump nozzle. An alternate way to check is to start with a warm-ish engine, turn it off, pump the throttle pedal a dozen times or so, and see if the car starts normally. If it does, then the pump isn't working very well if at all. If the engine acts like you have flooded it with gas, then forget everything that I have typed and listen to someone else. -
Sassin' Frassin' Frickin' Frackin'.....
NorthWet replied to Scoobywagon's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Engine installed backwards? Next time, use a better mechanic. We never checked the lower hose for pressure/temp, did we? Top of my list would be thermostat... I don't remember touching it. Plugged radiator comes to mind, but the radiator worked with previous engine... (FWIW, I did HGs on an XT and it did some of this same weirdness. Didn't figure it out before I had to move on to my next crisis.) -
In need of a steering knuckle
NorthWet replied to keish's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
+1. Moog has been around for ages. I haven't heard of any names to stay away from. Have you noticed any issues with your front suspension, or was this all due to the recommendation of the technician? AFAIK, ball joint failures, although potentially catastrophic, are rare. The ball joints sloppiness usually annoy/scares people into replacing them far before they become structurally unsafe. -
Which timing are you off on, ignition or cam? I am assuming cam. Did you fix the timing issue yet? If not, do so.
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Cam Carrier Removal Question
NorthWet replied to Deener's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
+1 (on pretty much everything GD has told you). The engine is not all that heavy. With the heads off (a little less weight plus cylinders for handholds) I lift and carry mine around by myself. I can even mount it on my engine stand without help. Two capable people should be able to lift one out of the engine bay. Think twice (2 million times???) about using an ez-out. The likely scenario is a broken ez-out and either visiting a machine shop for expensive work or replacing the block. GD suggested left-hand drills for a REALLY good reason. Maybe add a little heat, penetrant oil and b-load of patience. -
problem found...help?
NorthWet replied to off-road-knight's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
It's Saturday night, and even Subaru Cultists go out on weekends. Give others some time. I had a similar experience, but it was with a non-turbo "spider" manifold. The freeze/core plug was an unusual size, so I just ended up tapping it for a standard pipe plug. -
I haven't ever had ball joints that caused this sort of issue, so I can't comment on that. However, I have experienced having a disconnected antiroll bar link (nut/bolt fell off due to poor recheck after maintenance). The AR bar being connected on one side and not the other induced asymmetrical response to engine torque squat/lift. The drift was very noticeable and rather unnerving.
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Not so much sticking as not fully releasing (improper cable adjustment or problem with clutch/flywheel specs).
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Reverse gears typically are not synchromesh. Does it matter how long you wait after pushing down the clutch? If the car is stationary and you push in the clutch and 10 seconds later it still grinds, then your clutch is probably dragging.
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In some jurisdictions, driving without a hood is illegal. IIRC, the usual reason is that it is considered hazardous to pedestrians... (I think that mostly you don't see it because people are vain, especially about their cars.) If the back of your car has space, you could probably put the old hood back there. The hoods on EA82 wagons fit in the back, but I haven't tried it with a NewGen. (yet.) That whole "roof rack" thing would make me far too nervous to ever try it. I would never truly believe that it was strapped down enough to prevent it from becoming a HUGE throwing star.
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One of our EA-series made an idle warbling-groan/squeal, and I think it also did it sometimes while at speed. I also seem to recall (hallucinate???) that it seemed worse in damp weather, which REALLY threw me. I never figured it out, but on the other hand nothing failed. I do not know the resolution. (Sold the car? Clutch replacement? "Orange smoke", aka magic?) My feeling was that it was a harmonic condition where some bearing, for lack of a better word, "stuttered" at certain speeds. If the TO bearing was lightly touching the PP fingers it might be trying to turn, and different speeds might invoke a harmonic response. If TO bearing, I would probably try loosening the clutch adjustment some (more freeplay) and see if it has any effect. (If the clips have slipped off TO or fork, this may not help.) If this doesn't change things, just for grins trying eliminating freeplay for a very short time and see if things change.
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ea82 turbo power; is it possible???
NorthWet replied to soobie_newbie67's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
My take here is that with your (relative) youth you have lots of enthusiasm but would benefit from gaining perspective. This is merely an observation and not a putdown; Perspective is a lifelong pursuit, often gained at the expense of enthusiasm. Your enthusiasm has you asking questions in ways that almost invite hecklers. My advice is ignore the heckles and look for the pearls of knowledge. Possible Pearls: Make sure that everything works RIGHT before making any changes. There is nothing more frustrating than trying to track down a problem when you don't know if it ever worked right. A cooling fault is the quickest path to a dead EA82. Maintain the cooling system, consider an oil cooler, and an intercooler on the turbo engine are recommended. Performance parts are practically nonexistent for this engine. The only (commonly) known source in the USA is Ram Engines: they modify the EA series for aircraft use. They have some interesting stuff, but it is VERY pricey. IIRC, Ram uses Wiseco forged pistons, so you may be able to source pistons from Wiseco (good luck). The bottom end (rods/crank/block) are generally considered strong enough for any likely power that would run through them. The only time I have heard of broken rods was when a bearing seized. The "head gasket" tends to be a weak point. (Opinions will differ as to why.) Unless this issue is addressed you will probably have blown HGs at some point in time. The turbo-side head tends to crack at the exhaust port. Most seem to think it is a casting-design flaw. (I differ.) Many think that the head can't "flow" worth a darn. In some ways they are right, in other ways it is relative and they lack perspective. An exhaust system that flows better is not that helpful. Pretty much every person that is new to engines thinks that this gizmo or that gizmo will transform their machine. The truth is more complex, as an engine is like an orchestra, where all of the parts need to act in concert. Exhaust changes really need intake and cam changes (at least) to see much benefit. GD can be overbearing and insulting. That does not mean that his information is wrong. Separate his opinions from his information; if his information is not relevant, ignore it. (Pretty much goes for anybody...) Just because I am typing this doesn't meant that any of it is true or relevant. I only think that I know what I am talking about, as everything is viewed from my perspective. (Pretty much goes for anybody...) I regularly have to pull my foot out of my mouth or my head out of my... well, you know where. Enough drivel... on to my opinions. IF you modify, you might want to make sure that the main/rod bearings are in good shape. Loose clearances have been accused of causing oil starvation to specific rod bearings, causing seizure and ventilated blocks. Also, make sure that your oil pump is at least resealed. There are at least 2 different castings for the turbo pistons, with the later one having more material (and presumably more strength) in the crown-to-skirt area. These MIGHT be less prone to collapsed ring lands that others have reported. They are also less costly than the $500-600 for a set of forged pistons. I have heard of nothing definitive about the superiority of Fel-Pro HGs over OEM. The one known advantage is that Fel-PRo says that you don't have to retorque the heads after a warmup cycle. (A pain with the engine installed and having to reseal the cam tower.) Many people torque the headbolts to higher than specified values, typically 65-75ft-lbs. The major risk here is pulling the threads out of the block. There are ways to minimize this risk. A few months ago I started a Thread hoping to gather information and opinion about weaknesses in the EA82 and how they might be dealt with. Might be worth looking through. Good luck, and remember that it is your car and your life. -
Eliminate the obvious: Put a gallon or two of gas in it. All of the next tier of possible causes are nowhere near as likely as lack of fuel. If you do not have easy access to more gasoline, try a replacement fuel such as starter fluid sprayed into the intake tract (but near the MAF).
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Rebuilding ea81 - which bearings/rings to buy?
NorthWet replied to nickolai's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Clevite has been around quite awhile. I did a quick search on eBay and only found undersized bearings. I bring this up just in case you overlooked sizing. -
A couple other sources: http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/R4AX-EL.html http://www.ukrtrans.biz/files/catalog/subaru-suzuki/R4AX-EL.pdf Transmission core is known as R4AX-EL and EC8. When I searched this time, Google did not return some of the sites that I have looked at before. Quite a few companies offer parts, kits and rebuild manuals for the 4EAT and M41/M41a (aka 3AT)
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Does the fan work on any of its speed settings? If so, then it could be the resistor pack that lives in the bottom of the blower housing. The individual resistor coils tend to break over time.
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Can I use a 1 to 5 ratio of E85 and Reg Gas?
NorthWet replied to machthree's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
From the Shell website: "Avgas 100 LL with lead content of less than 0.56 gm/ litre means that Shell Avgas is suitable for aircraft original certified to operate on Avgas 80/87." 100LL contains Tetra-Ethyl Lead, just nowhere near what the high octane rated, non-Low-Lead avgas uses. It was developed because the higher TEL content was causing excessive sparkplug fouling in certain engines. If you use avgas other than 82UL (essentially automotive unleaded without the additives), it will poison your catalytic converter. -
87 gl-10 turbo help
NorthWet replied to off-road-knight's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The distributor turns at 1/2 crankshaft speed, so the "0" mark will appear twice for every revolution of the rotor. Unless someone had pulled the distributor before you did, it was likely at the correct place before you touched it. As was previously suggested, check for spark. Plwase make sure that the spark seems "right" for the engine speed, as I have seen a case of the spark occurring 1/10th as often as it should, and it took several hours to realize that. Once you know that you have spark (and the distributor is set properly), you might try using an alternate fuel source (e.g. starting fluid) to see if it will fire. -
Can I use a 1 to 5 ratio of E85 and Reg Gas?
NorthWet replied to machthree's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Ethanol is commonly used as an oxygenator for gasoline. Oxygenated gasoline is commonly required (at least seasonally) on at least the US West Coast. Much/most Regular gasoline (on the US West Coast) already has up to 10% ethanol, and this mixture has been available for at least the last 20 years. I have used this mixture in my cars for at least the last 20 years. Other than slightly lower fuel mileage, no obvious problems have occurred. I do not know if an ethanol mixture (above what the OP probably is already using) will lower CO numbers on his emissions test. I also do not know whether E85 will mix properly with "E10" or if there will be some miscibility issues; I suspect not, otherwise "flexing" back and forth between E85 and non-E85 would be impractical. Avgas IS dyed. This is done to provide visual identification of what fuel is actually in the aircraft's tanks. Aircraft are certified to use particular fuels, and it is illegal (and dangerous) to use non-certificated fuel in an aircraft engine. (IIRC, 100LL is blue, 80 is red, and 100/130 is dyed green.)