NorthWet

That should be it. Differences are on the distributor and the intake manifold.

Also, sometimes the spacer in the hub between the inner and outer bearings can droop down and get in the way.

The belts themselves are simple. The only difficult/time-consuming part might be getting access. Vehicles with an engine driven fan can take some time and patience to remove the radiator. Removing the timing covers can be frustrating because the bolts corrode in the captive nuts in the plastic covers, and then just spin the nuts instead of backing out. You can keep it simple and just replace the belts, or do some PM while you are at it. (TB idler/tensioners, water pump, reseal the oil pump.) Belts are not aligned using TDC, but using a set of 3 scribed lines on the flywheel. Some manuals forget to mention that the cam alignment marks need to be 180deg apart when you are done. (They forget/gloss-over the need to rotate the crank 360deg before setting the second belts alignment.) Recheck when you think that you are done because it is easy to be one tooth off.

Car year and model would be helpful. In my 88 XT manual (EA82-engined car) does not specifically give current ratings, but it does give wire cross-sectional area for the links, and current ratings for those areas. Current ratings are different for usage in the engine compartment versus elsewhere on the car: Black: 1.25 sq-mm = 10A or 21A ("engine-wiring" or "other location") Green: 0.5 sq-mm = 6A or 12A Red: 0.85 sq-mm = 8A or 16A

Unless you have far more time than money, I would replace it. On a slightly different topic, the thread repair kits on the EA81/82 are uncommon and expensive ($70-ish for Helicoil when I was looking recently). 11Mx1.25 thread. Good luck.

A bolt that may surprise you on difficulty to remove is the trailing link bolt. On my SVX, I spent around 3-4 weeks PB soak and heat soak, and I STILL had to cut if off. No room to get decent sockets on one side of it. Good luck.

Do as GD said. Life will be good... and quieter. (I forgot about the darn ASVs... none of mine has that wonderful device.)

"Cooling has been optimized by using separate engine cooling circuitry for the block and the head, resulting in improvements in fuel efficiency and output characteristics." Sounds to me like they may have dry-decked this engine. (At least as far as coolant. No mention about oiling.) Between (possibly) no block-to-head passages, smaller bores, and MLM HGs, maybe the head gaskets will be a non-issue. As far as chain vs toothed-belt, my personal experience with late-60's/early-70's Datsuns and Toyotas was that 200k was common life for their chain systems, and even then the chain was usually serviceable but the sliding-surface (non-rotating) tensioner was worn out. Even if toothed-belts have equivalent life, I still have a problem with the accepted failure mode (sudden breakage) and the significant internal damage that also is accepted. Fail-soft versus fail-hard would be my preference. Proper maintenance *should* prevent hard failures, but even new belts can have flaws and break. "Smoke and mirrors" sounds about right. Too much complexity for your average trip to the store. Something breaks, the repair estimate might get people thinking "total"...

A question that may seem dumb, but I couldn't quickly find the answer in your other threads... and IMHO it needs to be asked. I am under the impression that you removed (and maybe replaced) your timing belt(s). If this is correct, are you sure that you got the timing marks correctly aligned when the belts were reinstalled?

Thanks, I missed the "flat tow" part. My comment was more for a tow dolly situation.

It's OK, Rob. After the last few months, I am the LAST one to throw stones at mis-typing/-speaking. I just figured that the Parts Stores get confused enough without us adding to their day.

I think Turbone meant Perma-torque.:-\ Also, something you may not know about (yet!) are oil passage seals between the head and cam-case. They may look like o-rings, may have even been replaced by o-rings, but they are special rubber-covered metal seals. Better yet, I have not heard of them being included in any aftermarket gasket set.

More to the point on the 4wd automatics, the rear-transfer function is performed by a clutch pack, where half the plates will be rotating with the rear wheels and the other half will be affected by plate drag w/o lubricant... maybe turning some, maybe not. Speed and distance matter, but I have abused a 3AT at 55mph for 40 miles and it still worked.

Bad news: 90 FSM: "The hub and bearing are combined as a unit and cannot be disassembled." So, although you can remove the hub from the spindle, it looks like all you can do is replace the hub.

The torque converter is not bolted to the transmission input shafts, so it is possible just to pull the engine forward and pull the TC off the input shafts. You may get the inner shaft pulling out with the TC; just push it back into the transmission (it's splines will need to be reseated into the transmission later.) WARNING: It can be a real pain to get the torque converter to reseat on its shafts, so PLEASE ask how to do it before you try to re-mate engine and tranny. Failure to reseat the TC properly will cause severe damage to the transmission. You may be able to unfreeze the engine with some patience and the use of penetrating oil and the starting motor... it also might break the pistons, but if things are that bad then the engine is probably toast anyway.

It has been a while since I have dealt with the EA81's torsion-bar rear suspension (mostly deal with the later coil-over stuff), but I would suggest 2 possibilities. The first is bad wheel bearings. It sounds like you would have already checked for something like this, but thought that it was worth mentioning. The second is a bent outer plate of the control arm, the part that spans between the torsion bar and the main control arm/bearing housing. This would seem to be the only part of the control arm that could conceivably get tweaked. Other than those, something severely wrong with the control arm's inner pivot/bushing is my only other thought.

I usually end up at Kitsap Way or Silverdale. I'll need some more bands soon, so good local info to know.

Which Bremerton NAPA store did you go to?

Vehicle model and year would be helpful.. :-\

Out of the engine from the thermostat (rt-side of engine, as viewed from passenger compartment) through the radiator to the waterpump on left-side of engine.

Last time I went looking locally for boot bands, came up empty at NAPA and C/S/K/O'Reillys. AutoZone came through for me, and their 2-band kit was less than 3 bucks. The quality was not the greatest, but it didn't require the band tool (which neither NAPA or O'reillys had seemed to have heard about). My issue was needing boot/bands for an SVX, which none of the 3 parts places showed available any closer than Illinois or Indiana.

Finally disassembled the engine enough to have a good look, and it tums out I spun rear-most rod bearing. Munched the crank journal, so I guess no quick-and-dirty fix with this short-block. Well, I have its pistons, and I have a good turbo short block, so I guess it is piston swap time. BTW, This is the first time that I have messed with the internals of the short-block, and although I did not see any direction on how to remove pistons (or rods) without spitting the case, it is possible and not all that hard.

The local yards that I have been to are on Highway 3 between Gorst and Belfair. There is (was? been a year) one near Poulsbo off of Bond Rd, IIRC. Most of the yards around here seem to have "flexible pricing", somewhere between "your dressed like one of us" and "can you grab your ankles?":rolleyes: Also supposed to be 1 or 2 places in Port Orchard. Otherwise, I make trips to Tacoma PAP. I have a 110v MIG (currently out of wire and gas) and a 30yrold 220v stick welder. I haven't had enough practice to even maintain my mediocre welding abilities.

Warning bells going off in my head! How many wheel-lugs does each wheel have, 4 or 5? If only 4, it is not a Legacy and the previous responders would almost certainly have different recommendations. (There are other ways to tell if it is a pre-Legacy car, but this seemed simplest.)

The Loyale wagon has some differences from pre-Loyale (rear quarter-panel/window and the rear hatch), but I haven't heard of any differences for the sedans.