NorthWet

Can't fit a socket on the nut side due to interference with the brake backing plate. (Well, maybe the socket but not the tool to turn the socket.) Both impact and augmented breaker-bar w/ 6-pt impact socket has been used on the bolt head. This should be the same link/bolt/attachment as a Legacy; I am surprised that it is such an issue for me (on 2 different vehicles!) and hasn't been mentioned before on bearing/hub work.

Bump... Certainly some of you have removed the rear hub/knuckle on your Legacy or Imp, right?

Not sure about parts interchangeability, but IIRC the Mustang was pretty much just a rebodied Fairlane 500.

Just to be clear, the reference to wheels from chevy/toy/et al was for their 6-lug wheels, which use a similar bolt-hole circle to our 140mm. Either the wheels can be redrilled to 4-lug, or the hubs can be redrilled and studed/threaded for 6-lug.

Possibly a failing fuel pump. A pressure gauge could help. Compression/fuel/spark... which one is inadequate? Probably not compression. Do you know if you have spark when it is refusing to start? I would think that if the CPS was flaking that you wouldn't have spark when it refuses to start (might not have fuel delivery, either). An injector-signal tester ("noid") could let you tell if the injectors were being told to inject. Are you getting any "Check Engine" codes?

It is not so much a mechanical issue as a chemical/physics issue. The silicone fluid is a non-Newtonian fluid, something whose viscosity increases when exposed to shear forces. When movement is slow (shear force is minimal), the long chains of the molecules can slip past each other; when movement is faster and the shear force is higher, the molecules snag on each other and remain entangled making them seem more "solid". My understanding (subject to me being wrong ) of the issue in the VC is that slippage/shear forces cause the silicone fluid to heap up, and starts to chemically alter the fluid permanently. (My guess is that the silicone molecules polymerize with each other, forming a big cross-linked mess.) My guess with your situation is that you have something going on that causes excessive slippage between the front and rear outputs of the VC, causing it to heat excessively. Mismatched tires are the most obvious culprit, but also the one that you are likely to have already checked and ruled out. Any form of towing with 2-wheels on the ground (again, pretty obvious). Final drives could be mismatched, but improbable if you have owned the car since new.

What the tech probably tested was the compressor clutch's electromagnet. If this is shorted or open, the compressor won't engage. It is hard for me to imagine anyone checking the resistance of the clutch electromagnet by taking the measurement anywhere other than at the compressor's connector ("other" including the low-pressure switch in the circuit), but anything is possible. Even with the clutch replaced, the front seal on the compressor might be toast if it has been several years since the compressor was last run. Its been 30 years since I worked on auto A/C, but back then our shop was charged about $50 for front seals. A new front seal and clutch might be quite a bit more than a good used compressor. Going to another mechanic for a second opinion sounds like a good idea regardless.

(Ed, sorry that on my last post I missed you asking the pertinent question...) Just like the manuals, the automatics should not be run on pavement in 4WD. With an automatic with worn transfer clutch, you might get away with it on rain-slick roads. But a rebuilt unit should not tolerate being in 4WD on dry pavement. That could VERY easily be causing your noises.

We got a little OT and OCD with the whole ratio thing, and looks like we forgot a question (or 2?): Under what condition(s) did you have your 3AT in 4WD when you heard the growling?

Regarding the splitter, early on I had dismissed using one and promptly forgot why (just knowing it wouldn't be useful was enough to remember ). The reason is that it is a flange-nut, and I have not considered a splitter to be useful on this type of nut (though this may be false thinking as I have never tried it). The bushing is fine, no need to destroy it. It just flexes when 200+ft-lbs is applied to it...

On my 92 (sorry, my latest-model exemplar), it looks like it is possible to loosen up the panel from the top, probably getting enough room through gentle bending of the panel to get at the mechanism.

I have all sorts of implements of destruction, including nut splitters and cutoff saws. I have thought of cutting off the nut, the bolt head, or both. My concern with doing something like that which is irreversible is that if the bolt shank is stuck in the bushing that I may be unable to shift it out. (No room on the backingplate side to remove the bolt remnants or too drift the remnants out the other way.)

92 SVX (AWD), trying to swap a rear knuckle to "fix" a failing rear bearing in my wife's DD. (I have a project car available, and cash-flow mitigates against replacing bearing at this time.) Trying to break loose the nut-and-bolt that connects the trailing link to the rear knuckle has been a total PITA. On my project/donor car, it took me a week of "penetrant soak/heat/soak, repeat daily" to get the darn bolt to break loose. My 1/2" impact (admittedly mediocre) did little except mangle the bolt head, and my 12-point box-end wrench started to round the nut. Finally, after a week, my 2' breaker-bar and some choice words finally got the bolt to loosen. I am 1-1/2 weeks into the same routine on (what was) my wife's DD. These are PNW, non-rusty vehicles. The long bolts on the transverse links came out like they were installed yesterday. Everything else breaks free pretty as you please. BUT... There is no room to fit a socket on the trailing link's nut, so I am resigned to torque it loose from the bolt head. Nice rubber bushing, so that whole assemble moves/twists as you try to apply torque, causing socket to try and twist sideways off of the bolt head. ARRGGHH!!!! All the horror stories that I have read about working on Legacy-class rear knuckles have only mentioned that long bolt. What am I missing, what do I need to do to break loose that silly trailing-link bolt???

On an 82 Brat, I had to remove the fender. It might have been possible without removing the bumper, but it didn't seem that way.

I don't know how the hatch trim looks on that Legacy, but if you can climb into the back and pop loose the trim panel, you should be able to get at the insides of the mechanism. Depending on the problem (such as latch/striker misalignment), you still may be unable to open the hatch. Does the hatch latch handle "feel" normal?

Well, I was REALLY hoping to give Turbone a :-p by taking a pic of Christine's diff sticker, but it is too crusty to read and she is the only NA 3AT I have. So, I guess that I will have to trust Rob more than my memory. (Gosh, I HATE when that happens!!! )

I forgot about that one...Thanks.

Regarding whether the head is cracked, although most anything is possible, the MPFI heads usually crack into the exhaust port (a crack appears in the "divider" section between the two exhaust runners that feed the port) or between the valve seats if the ubiquitous crack there runs too deep. Cracking between the coolant jacket and the oil passages seems a little unusual; I would suspect the other head gasket first. You can have the head(s) pressure tested to check for cracks. It is somewhat pricey in my part of the world (and by my cheap standards): 10 years ago, I was quoted US$65 per head for pressure testing. But it should tell you if the heads are usable. What is bad with the turbo engine? If the heads are still serviceable, you can swap those onto the NA MPFI block. You would need to block the coolant and oil lines for the turbo, but otherwise should work.

Unless my mind skipped over mention of it being a turbo, I believe it should be a 3.9 ratio. Oh, also, you should probably pull the top (fill) plug first, as it may not want to come out. If you pull the drain first and can't remove the fill plug, things get a little complicated. (Guess how I know?!)

The MFPI heads/intakes are different from the carb and SPFI versions. The MFPI, in both turbo and NA forms, use dual intake ports. (You can't squirt fuel into a siamesed intake port once per cycle and expect 2 sequentially firing cylinders to get the right mixture.) So, the MPFI engine/heads/intake are interchangeable, allowing for the lower compression of the turbo pistons and the extra drilled/tapped oil and coolant passages in the turbo's non-distributor side head.

Please bear with me a minute. Let's please look at What we know: Your original post mentioned noises while turning and that you suspected the rear end and/or LSD. Subaru offered/offers both clutch-type and viscous-type limited-slip-differentials. These LSDs were available in the type of rear differential that you posted (an R160, BTW). LSD-equipped rear-end units can make odd noises and cause weird sensations from the rear end of the car while turning. A failing open differential can also cause weird noises and sensations. Your Legacy uses an all-wheel-drive system that connects power to the rear wheels using a AT-style clutch-pack that is known to have all sorts of issues (plate binding, drum grooving, control-solenoid failing) that can also cause rear-end/rear-wheel issues while cornering. No indication from you that, to your knowledge, the R160 rear-end unit or the transmission have been changed. If the final drive ratio in the front and rear final-drives do not match, much trouble can occur. What I think that we know: There is no external evidence that this R160 rear-end unit contains an LSD. Not terribly important in and of itself, as (apart from the probability that it is just a semantics issue) someone may have installed one anyways (a popular mod), or the cover may be from a different rear-end unit (not a likely scenario). Given the information that you have provided, your car did not leave the factory with that R160 rear-end unit under it. (Or, at least, not that cover.) What I don't know: What is actually going on. We are diagnosing from a distance, relying on information and responses from you so that we can try to help you. I can't speak for others, but I have neither the time nor inclination to play "tease the newcomer". I will make time to help someone who needs help but is not practiced at supplying information that we may need. (Others may vary...) If the R160 contains an LSD. If having an LSD matters to your problem. If the R160 really has a 3.900 final-drive ratio. If it is really a 3.900 ratio, whether the transmission's final drive ratio matches. If the transmission is or is not currently in FWD mode via the FWD fuse. If the "POWER" light on the dash blinks when you first start the car. (If it blinks 21 times, the transmission electricals have a problem.) So: In my opinion, what we don't know as of yet is greater than what we do know. Any information/clarification that you can provide will help us help you. Personal attacks in lieu of information do not help you. It turns everybody off except those that enjoy flaming. Good luck.

Kind of my thought, too. Part throttle pinging might be because of too little EGR occurring. Another thought: How did you set/check your ignition timing? Did you connect the green diagnostic connectors next to the wiper motor? (And remember to disconnect them afterwards?) And what did you set the timing to? If the pinging occurs only during cornering (particularly left sweepers), it could be a PCV issue. You didn't mention special conditions, so I am assuming that this does not apply.

The CB has the advantage of not requiring cell towers, power to the towers, landlines from the towers, and the functioning of the cell companies. Self-contained, only needs others with receivers... and smokey is always listening if you have trouble.

Heat, penetrant oil, and patience??? It is amazing what a week of patience can accomplish. If not that virtuous, it looks like some rebuilt calipers come with the bracket and pins.

The "or Loyale" covers you. No biggie, just trying to make a distinction between pre-Legacy and the Legacy-and-beyond vehicles.