NorthWet

Post removed as unneeded and irrelevant. Any responses to this post were accurate and reasonable.

I am guessing, based on the fuel gauge, that TheLoyale was not going to be doing a "tonne" for much longer...

Please start a new thread. (Can't PM you, off-topic here.) Use a spark-plug thread-chaser as a tap. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=SER3379_0006401120

That picture shows a metal-mesh filter. Been there, done that (both too many times), and always annoyed that I bothered.

The "looking at valve cover design" was discussed recently, and my understanding is that it is not reliable. Please see this (especially post#6): http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=119303

Is that for each piston or for a set of 4 pistons?

Ok, thanks.

How did the rod fail? Something other then small-end failure? (I might have found out if I kept reading long enough, but I had trouble translating crazy-stupid NABISCO-ese .)

If one were to fit pistons designed for 23mm pins on a rod designed for 21mm pins, would it make more sense to bush the pistons or bore the rod? Also does anyone have a source for NA EJ20 pistons?

Did they do anything to the pressure plate to give it more holding power, or just give you a driven plate that might live longer while it slips?

+1

A VERY rough measurement of an ea82T piston gives pin centerline to crown of right around 33mm. FSM gives EA82 piston pin diameter as 21mm Can someone "remind" me how to change the original title from "EJ18" to EJ20" so that that it can more accurately reflect where this is going? Edit: Never mind... I figured it out.

Right off, it sounds like a misadjusted shifter cable. Edit: I misinterpreted the description, thinking the noise in park was accompanied by car movement (noise coming from partially engaged parking pawl). Next poster is more likely correct. endedit.

A couple questions: You did a reseal, which implies that you removed the timing belts, right? If so, the major cause of issues is not getting the t-belts on correctly, so please bear with me. Did you set the crankshaft so that the center of the 3 marks on the flywheel was next to the pointer on the flywheel-access "window"? With the 3 marks aligned, did you set the first belt with the dot on the cam pulley pointing straight up at its alignment mark on the cover?, Did you then rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees, align the 3 marks again, and install the other t-belt so its dot was pointing straight up at the alignment mark on its cover? Did you then have one cam dot up and the other cam dot down? Did you at any time remove the Distributor? If so, are you SURE that you put it in correctly, or could it be 180 (disty)deg off? If unsure about fuel, a little supplemental fuel supplied to the intake will help sort that out.

Crank position is unimportant until you get to the point of setting timing belts. This is a "non-interference" engine, which means that under no "normal" circumstance will the pistons and valves interfere with each other. The engine is great that way. You should be abe to carefull brush off the carbon and crud... more likely to damage the aluminum then the valveheads. If you have the valves disassembled from the heads, I would not get the wire brush near the vavleseat area.

What body style is it? This will help locate the various parts, including the controller. We might even be able to point you at threads similar to you that include diagnosing tips and resolutions. Why do you think Subaru was "smoking" something? It is a complicated system, but it is one that was Federally mandated in the US. It is actually pretty simple in concept: A motor that powers a "mousetrack" that moves the belt latch. A sensor at the front of the track that tells the controller if the "mouse" (latch) is all the way forwards. A sensor at the back/Latchpoint that tells the controller if the "mouse is all the way back in latching position. Door sensors that tell when the door is opened and closed. (I think that there are also seat sensors for when seats are occupied) A controller, that has the logic and the power relays that control the motor. Personally, I dislike them. An attempt to legislate intelligence. I am for proper seatttbelts and Darwinian thinning of the weak-minded.

Unless you are on a really tight budget, I would do them all. I don't think that there is a simple bench test that will tell how they will react in use.

The motor relays should be mounted on the control board. It is common for the solder joints on the relays, or the relays themselves, to go bad.

Although not ideal, the Ej pin bosses could be sleeved to fit the EA pins, or perhaps the EA rods could be bored. Pin position relative to crown might be harder to kludge.

I had heard of the Borgward connection back in the earl 1980's... IIRC, it was in an article/road test of a Subaru EA81 in Road & Track Magazine.

Well, it is a good place to start. Are you getting rebuilt HLAs from Mizpah, or going a different route? I would strongly urge you to get the Subaru oil-passage seals.

After nosing around, your IAC may be mostly a fast-idle-when-cold thing. The screw below it is probably the idle adjust. Try checkint out ths thread for some info (not much) on adjusting the idle screw: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=80868 You might also check the "IAC" (which might be mostly a heater element and a valve controlled by a bimetal spring) for electrical continuity. I don't have a resistance value for it.

You can't find it probably because I described it incorrectly. I think that I confused it with the SPFI unit. My apologies. I trudged through the mud to look at my 88 ea82t's intake. Th IAC is a vertical solenoid-like unit sticking straight up on the firewall side of the throttle-body, with 2 electrical wires sticking out the top. It looks like it gets its air from inside the TB's throat, immediately above the throttle plate. Not sure at the moment the best way to check it for leaks/proper operation. (Do not take the term "stupid" to be meant for you. You know that there are some things that you need to learn and you are trying to learn them. No student is stupid.)

You don't KNOW all of the TLAs and FLATs??? (Three-Letter-Acronyms and Four-Letter-Acronyms-Too.) FSM - Factory Service Manual. It is what the Dealer mechanics use, and is usually a multi-book set. IAC - Idle Air Control valve. An electrically-controlled idle-circuit that is attached to the throttle-body. CTS - Coolant Temperature Sensor. A 2-wire sensor that tells the ECU (computer) the coolant's temp. NOT the same as the sender for the temp gauge. TPS - Throttle Position Sensor. Attached to the end of the throttle-body's throttle shaft. On your engine, pretty much only tells ECU if throttle is closed, wide open, or anyplace inbetween. Ignorance is not a crime. We are all ignorant of something. Knowing something and ACTING stupid is a different matter. Keep asking questions and trying to learn, and helpful people will continue to help. Things will not always work right, and things will break. It is how we learn. Back on-topic... (Edit: The following description of the IAC is inaccurate. Look for proper information further down or elsewhere. endedit.) The IAC is attached to the side of the TB. There is a good-sized hose (pinky-sized?) running to it. This is the supply for the idle air. Remove the hose and cover where the hose attached to the IAC with your finger or whatever, and note what happens to the idle speed. Regarding the FSM, try checking out this webpage: http://www.finleyweb.net/JonsStuff/SubaruDocumentation.aspx

How great of a difference on pinbore and distance to piston deck?