NorthWet

I will point out that there is no performance gain to be had by a change, and a probable performance loss will occur, and then leave you to your chosen path.

One side is picking up oil clinging to the dipstick tube/channel. The low side will be the actual level.

I do not believe that there is any force/distance spec for the belts. The adjustment specification is for a certain amount of tension of the cam pulley (IIRC, 10 ft-lbs), and while applying that tension allow the tensioner to take up any slack, then retighten the tensioner. Although recommended, no special tool is required: You can do as Milesfox suggests (all good advice) or you can probably just apply tension with your hand gripping the cam pulley.

One thing I forgot to ask is whether or not your car is a manual tranny or automatic. Automatics require a radiator with a tranny cooler; most aftermarket radiators just include the cooler regardless of tranny type. Otherwise, it should fit but probably will need some attention to the lower hose. Hopefully, the radiator is inexpensive. You can get a new one (last time I checked) for around $100. Used ones can be a bit of a "throw of the dice". The radiators tend to plug up; not hard to check if it is in a running car, but tough if the radiator is already pulled.

OP's car is an automatic. The transfer function is performed by a clutchpack similar to ones used in other parts of the automatic. IIRC, manuals use helical-cut gears for its transfer function. Mismatch in tires or mismatched final drive ratios (your tranny is a 3.70 ratio, so your rear diff should match, but someone may have replaced it in the past with a 3.90). As mentioned, it might also be rear driveshaft u-joints issues. RE: Crankcase ventilation filter - I am not 100% positive, but your engine would not have or need one. On your carb'd ones, the vent was inside the air housing but not in filtered air. On the FI-models (including turbos), filtering the air is done at the fender and well before the vent.

This may not be accurate. I do not recall anyone mentioning that the LSD was removed from the orderable-options on a Loyale. Since a turbo Loyale was offered in 1990, I would expect that some Loyales could have had them. That being said, it is unlikely to have come from a Loyale, especially a 1994. If it is an LSD unit, it is almost certainly (>99%) a 3.70 final drive ratio. If you went with a D/R (which is most likely a 3.90 ratio), you would need to do some work to swap the LSD unit into a 3.90 final-drive unit.

+1, plus what body style? "GL" is a trim level, and was used through different engine-series and body styles. The EA81 engine-series use radiators of different size and fitment then the EA82 engine-series. Certain body styles within an engine-series (e.g. - XT) use a different radiator. The Loyale is mostly a renamed EA82 sedan/wagon, with minor differences mostly in the wagon's rear sheetmetal and windows. IIRC, the radiator is ALMOST the same as the pre-Loyale EA82-engined sedans and wagons. (PHEW!) Again IIRC, the difference is the shape/angle of the lower radiator outlet, manageable by buying the radiator hose to match the radiator.

For those not "blessed" with being in the PNW, for the last week the TV News has been warning the Puget Sound region of the impending "Snow-tastrophe" (copyright pending ). After 3 days of being "on alert", I have about an inch of snow. I am in an area that typically gets snow before most of the region, and typically some of the higher accumulations. And I have about an inch... My Subarus are envious!

+100!!! Do not force. Nothing but bad can come of that. As markjw was requesting, more information would help us figure this out. Why were belts being replaced? (Regular maintenance, belt break, OTHER WORK BEING DONE...) What other work might you have done? Sounds like the crank turns, just not beyond a certain point. If true, is the "certain point" in about the same place both directions, or is it significantly different? If it is about the same place, I would look for a bolt protruding and snagging on something. Since the front of the engine is "open" and exposed, it is probably the back of the engine; this would indicate Torque Converter bolts on an auto, possibly clutch/PP issues on a manual, or somebody dropped a bolt/object into a sparkplug hole or into the timing/view port in the bell housing. If there is a significant difference in stopping points, it might be engine internals (like a rod or piston); unlikely if the engine was running ok when you started this. So... information, please.

A nice, low power drill... don't do what I did. Silly me, what I had handy was my impact wrench. BAD idea. I snapped the pump shaft. Replaced the oil pump from my spares. Do remember to change the filter.

Resolved in a duplicate thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=997057

I am having trouble envisioning the damage. Pics or similar would help me. (Hopefully, someone who is sharper tonight might respond.) I have had a new t-belt die within a 1000mi or so. No apparent cause, probably a flaw. It shredded rather than shed teeth. Probably not a sticking cam... not a commonly reported problem. More common are seized idlers or tensioners; if either make any noise when spun they proabably need attetnion. It might be the oil pump seizing, but not any reports of those that I can remember. If the tensioners were no tensioned and/or retensioned properly, you could get some damage that way (but it might also sound like an airplane landing in your engine compartment).

Oh! So many possibilities, so few hours to type... First, just one O2 sensor, typically screwed into the downpipe near the turbo outlet. What do you know of the car's history? Why dd the Turbo need replacing? Doing the Hi-tension side of the ignition was a good start. Are you sure that you got all the plug wires going to the proper cylinders? (Have to ask...) Did you try to adjust the ignition timing? Special procedure... Did you check the timing belts? Is it possible that the non-distributor side belt is broken? Or that both belts were worked on and not aligned properly? (Both of these are VERY common issues.) How old is the gas? I personally have not had problems with 2-year old gas, but others have. Injectors may be dirty/plugged... I have not personally had this issue. Possibility of vacuum leaks? Are all of the hoses connected properly (or at least as far as you can tell)? Try spraying some carb cleaner around likely vacuum leak spots and see if idle changes. There is a Coolant Thermo Sensor (CTS) that is tucked behind the intake manifold on the US-passenger side of the throttle body, and this tends to have connector/wiring corrosion iissues. If it isn't giving you problems now, it will in the future. This ought to give you a few places to look and think about.

Find a FMIC that you like, look at where it could be mounted, go back and find one that might fit and you kind of like. Hope that it fits in a semi-legal and non-RroadWarrior fashion, try to figure out how to get the hoses to and from it, pay through the nose for the silicone hoses that you will likely need. Once that you have it put together, wait for the boost to build. Hold on, its coming... and probably be disappointed by the performance after the lag has finally ended. I don't think that too many people go this route because it is less practical than other ways. What might be practical for a fire-breathing stoplight racer might not be for a moderately powered (being a little generous here) economy engine with a small turbo producing low boost pressures. Others might be more encouraging, but the first couple of steps that I listed (prior to that lag stuff) will probably still occur. I think that FMIC are a tough fit on these cars, but hen, I might just not be creative enough.

+1 on the breakage issue.

Year and model of your vehicle would be really helpful, and I would find it helpful if you clarified what you meant by "spindle". Are you trying to remove the axle from the front hub/knuckle, or maybe trying to remove the frunt hub/knuckle from the car, with or without strut. Sorry to answer a request with a request, but we need some help to help you.

BTW, on the 4-cylinder version (not positive about the 6-, but should be the same), the negative battery cable attaches to the top starter bolt. IIRC, it bolts to a very small bracket that the bolt passes through.

Don't forget purchase of the adapter plate. Still, an ok way to get by.

Like an FWD 4EAT? Really nice highway gearing... probably get pretty good mileage out of that. Numchux, sorry for hijacking your reasoned thought and corrupting it with slushbox thoughts.

I don't know, but I would probably just make sure I changed it once in a while. Clean ATF will do miracles... IMHO, a tranny cooler might be a better way to spend money. Or just change the fluid more often. (notice a theme?) I am serious, though, about cleaning/reworking the governor valve. Probably more 3ATs "die" from that then anything else. And I have a theory that the damaged gears that they get are often related to the valve itself being dirty, thus not sliding as it was designed and that leads to imbalance and wobbling of the whole valve assembly, causing gear engagement issues.

Do some PM on the 3AT - fluid change/flush and cleanup the governor valve - and it could go almost forever. Or it might just seem like forever...

Not that it was much of a contest, Rob. I know that you suffer from CRS.

I call, "King of the Search!" Woo-hoo! Look at me!

If your car is sitting still (not moving, parked), can you put the tranny into 3rd? If so, probably synchros; if not (after several attempts, since their are some variables involved) it is likely something else.

The helical teeth are supposed to be even top to bottom, not saddle-shaped as that example was showing. RE: chain-saw fumes - I had to stop cause the dang elephants said that I was disrupting their tea-party. Stupid elephants; it was obviously coffee.