NorthWet

Any recent work around the hub? Wheel bearing or axle work?

Manual or automatic trans?

I'm a little suspicious of the 93 turbo part. IIRC, the turbo was only offered in the Loyale in 90.

OP = Original Poster, the person who started the thread. Sorry for the shorthand. Many threads go astray due to people trying to tell the original poster that they are wrong, rather than either answering the question or not commenting at all.

A little research gave the following trail to follow: NGK's parts-number decode information: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinfo/spark_plugs/partnumberkey.pdf NGK's racing plugs table: http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/docs/racingspecs2010.pdf My suggestion is to take an NGK plug of a type that you want (e.g. - BKR5ES-11, decode it for thread size (14mm), hex size (5/8"), and reach (3/4"), and then use the racing plug table to find a similar physical plug in a racing style. (Heat range should be totally irrelevant for your purpose, as is gap identifier.) "Google" who has that plug, and go from there. Jegs has the R5672A-8, as well as others in that style. If you want a different brand, you can find similar decoder and racing/non-resistor charts for that brand, or use a cross-reference for the one you do have, such as: http://www.sparkplug-crossreference.com/convert/NGK_PN/R5672-8 Happy researching.

Wow... The OP does not want any information other than a P/N for a non-resistor plug. I would suggest that we all accept that and not argue the point.

My apologies. Original post referred to an EA81 swap.

My information may be totally INVALID. The XT is MPFI, not SPFI, so engine wiring may be different. I looked at an 89 SPFI GL, but it looks like it has a different style of sensor/connector.

I would listen to Miles before I listened to myself this morning (my brain is not all there yet). That being said... You can test out your wiring and gauge by grounding the connector's terminal for the gauge. (Top of the "T" in my XT manual.) IF this is the right connector, and IF the wiring and gauge work, then the gauge should indicate maximum reading. Edit: Is the wiring harness from the EA82 chassis or the Ea81 engine?

Edit: This information may be unrelated/invalid. I had "forgotten" that the XT is MPFI, not SPFI. :endEdit The 88 XT FSM shows the 2-prong sensor used for guage and "ECM". The spade connectors are arrayed in a "T"-shape, with the top of the T being for the guage.

Language issues can cause misunderstandings, so please inform us if something does not translate clearly or is confusing. Your English is superior to my understanding of your language. (Egypt, so I assume that you speak Arabic?) I can only speak one language, so I am impressed with your English. I am going to make assumptions (guess), and I need to know if they are correct or wrong. If my assumption is wrong, then my conclusion is not valid. Assumption #1: Engine starts and runs, but does not want to start when the engine temperature is cold. Conclusion : The carburetor is not supplying the correct amount of fuel when the engine is cold. Ignition is functioning, but the cold-start enrichment system ("choke") is not operating correctly. Assumption #2: Carburetor is not supplying sufficient fuel for a cold start. (The exhaust does not smell like fuel.) Conclusion : The choke plate is not closing. Either the choke plate is binding or the actuator is faulty. Assumption #3: Carburetor is supplying an excessive of fuel for a cold start. (The exhaust smells strongly of fuel.) Conclusion : The choke plate is closed more than the temperature requires. (The actuator is not correctly adjusted.) Does the engine have to comply with exhaust emission (air pollution control) regulations? What emission control equipment exists on the engine? I am most interested to know if there are large tubes (15-20mm diameter) that attach to the exhaust ports: if these are present, they may be the cause of backfire sounds. When I have more information I will be able to ask better questions.

Yes. The crankshaft bearing clearances on the EA82 are really tight. Too viscous of an oil won't flow enough volume into the bearing spaces, leading to metal-on-metal contact. I think that the knowledgeable consensus is to not run anything more viscous (hot) than 30W.

If this engine has USA-style exhaust-emissions controls, I think that those solenoid-vacuum valves are the "duty valves" for the computer-controlled carburetor. One of these valves allow air into the carburetor idle circuit to adjust the fuel/air ratio at idle, and the other valve allows air into the carburetor's "main" circuit to adjust the fuel/air ratio during partial-throttle operation. If these are not connected, the carburetor tubes where the hoses attach should be capped (covered/plugged).

Our local auto parts stores often have loaner tools. You might check that out. Or, if you are friendly with a machine shop, they might do it for a reasonable fee.

A) OP has requested info on how to separate the parts. It does not matter why. I have been on boths sides of this type of "discussion", and unless you know that it is a bad idea, seems best just to offer useful assistance. Parts need to be capable of being disassembled in order to be maintained. The axle between diff and hub is sold (new/remanufactured) without the stub-axle/spindle attached. Much easier to service when sitting on a bench, so great time to unsieze the parts. Back to the original question: Perhaps a bearing separator would work. (The type that looks like 2 guillotine blades with a neck-cutout.) These act by wedging the parts apart. You might need a piece of iron pipe-and-axle-nut on the stub side to push against. Something to pursue afterwards... Why is it eating rear bearings. This seems to be a VERY uncommon occurence.

Pretty sure the OP is talking about where the rear half-shaft ("axle") attaches to the stub-axle in the hub. I have no words of wisdom for the OP, other than there is a recent thread on a similar issue, except its at the rear diff end of the halfshaft. You might want to check-out that thread.

REALLY short-stroke, piston speed and piston feet-per-mile are pretty low. Good metallurgy in the cylinders, so wear is minimal. You nerves will wear out from the RPMs before the engine will. As stated, I have had no issues running at 80-85 in an 3AT equipped sedan. Change the tranny fluid regularly, and try to not overheat the fluid.

Do the wipers and radio share the same fuse on a 95? I think that they did on prev types (EA81/EA82). (BTW: Hi, Jim!)

Are you referring to the big o-rings under the camshaft end caps/carriers, of the little seals that go between head and cam-carrier case?

I see more rust than signs of oil... my West Coast eyes see nothing but minor weeping from the gaskets. (I hear that severe-Winter areas can have things rust regardless of the amount of oil on them, so consider my bias...) Anyway, what I see looks fine. More likely to cause a real leak by messing with it. I don't think that it is justified to dig into the engine just to replace the rubber-coated metal washers ("O-rings") between cam carrier and the head. I feel that if they haven't ever been disturbed, then they are probably doing just fine: the worst that the factory seals can do is weep a little, and then that weeping has to get past several millimeters of machined mating surface to escape into the oil-drainback area. There should be no significant loss of flow or pressure. To me, the REAL issue occurs when someone replaces them with rubber o-rings and they come adrift and jam into the oil passage. If already apart, then yes, replace with OEM (or similar rubber-coated metal) seal. (Probably better to have no seal than using an O-ring.) For ticking, look to oil pump (volume/pressure issues), the pump's mickey-mouse seal (output leakage of input sucking air), or HLAs that need repair/replace. Honestly, from these pics I don't see any leakage to be concerned about. Maybe I am missing oil getting into the t-belt area.

I assume that the shock-rod is just sliding down into the shock body. (Pretty much all of my strut-shocks are gas pressurized, so usually isn't much of a problem for me.) If this is the case, you might find some way of softly gripping the base of the rod at the shock body so that it doesn't slide in. No tried and true from me, but maybe a hose clamp around a shop rag might grip the rod enough, yet still be removable.

BWAhahahaha!!!! I. apparently, have NEVER posted on NASIOC! Takes a lot of prozzying to get from 0 to 25.

Overheating at low speed would point to non-functional fan: generally, the fan is irrelevant above about 35 mph. High speed overheating points to other things, like plugged radiator or worse. Turning on your heater to full heat/blower can help lower coolant temps.

They would both take oil suitable for a ring-and-pinion gear set, since the tranny also contains a "diff".

Do YOU think that it is leaking a lot? Mechanics are paid to fix things, and an oil-dampened spot on a differential or transmission might be a leak to him rather than seepage. Are you leaving puddles? Spots of oil? Is your oil level always low? As anti-environmental as it sounds, adding a quart of oil every week or two is much cheaper than trying to fix a laundry-list of little leaks. Sit back, take a breath, and consider your options. Cars with the 3AT are plenty fast. My 88 SPFI sedan easily cruised at 80-85mph, accelerated well, and climbed hills decently. They are much maligned, mostly by those that have not had one bolted to a properly running engine. Sometimes they quit shifting when left in "D", this is a known, common problem that can be fixed by mere mortals. If engine speed at 55 is well over 3000rpm, the tranny probably did not shift up into 3rd gear. If it is sluggish from a dead stop, it may not have downshifted into 1st. Try shifting manually through the gears to see if it acts differently. Speaking of properly running: I didn't see mention of a year, so not sure if it is a true Loyale, in which case it should have Single-Point Fuel Injection (SPFI) or if it is older and might have a carburetor. Lots of things can lead to lack of power, foremost is being out of tune. Are the ignition components in good shape? Is the ignition timing set properly? On an SPFI, someone might have left connected the green diagnostic connectors near the wiper motor; if they did, your spark timing will remain fixed, probably causing poor freeway performance... and contributing to overheating. Overheating: The radiators tend to clog on the EA82/Loyales. To test, when the engine is at operating temperature place your hand on the radiator fins and feel for warmth, moving hand top to bottom (or vice versa). Warm bands are where coolant is flowing, cold bands are where the tubes are clogged. Gives you a quick idea of how good/bad the flow is.. Don't panic.