NorthWet

Wow...just...WOW!

Just to clarify (or confuse), the ATF fill/check tube is down by the distributor cap. The final drive fill/check tube is near the pitch-stopper, high up on the side of the final drive. Dextron III in the ATF, good hypoid gear lube in the final drive. If you have ATF in the final drive, it is likely 1 of 2 things: First, someone put ATF into the final drive. Second, you have lost a seal on the input tube beteewn the tranny and final drive sections. Both are common, but the first would be preferable to have happen. I have "flushed" the system by draining the pan, refilling, then disconnecting the cooler return hose near the radiator/cooler and running the engine to drain what is in the system. I then refill and repeat until the fluid looks relatively clean. Might take 2 to 3 gallons.

OK, I will pyle-on, too, but this will be my last plea for sanity: Subaru put an automatic behind the SVX'x EG33 for a reason, and that reason was that none of their MT trannys in 92 could handle the power. Get a clutch that will hold, and that tranny won't. An FT single-ratio tranny is uncommon. Sad to see one die when it could live happily forever behind my EA82. Good luck with your quest.

Sound good. The only thing i could suggest is dropping down to 65 or 60 to see if it is worthwhile, and I suspect that you have already considered this and dealt with it.

Thanks for anchoring this with a fact. So, the OP's ignition is electronic. Conclusion: The capacitor is for non-critical RFI/EMI suppression. The only way that I can see this capacitor causing problems is if it shorts to ground. Removing it completely would eliminate this fault. (Perhaps, the dissenter might be referring to experience in some vehicle that had points-style ignition, Or the mechanic is less than honest/reliable/well/informed)

Not to go off-topic, but you might just consider going with a tranny that fits an EJ/EZ and use its clutch.

Capn_r was being awfully nice, because he gave information before suggesting SEARCH; others are a little crankier about using SEARCH. Don't take it personally, as every new member seems to get harangued about this. I have trouble with SEARCH, and I have written a few search engines...

My lack of knowledge, so all ok.

Yeah, I thought of that blown fuse thing, too... Life is just a strange thing, and sometimes odd questions are asked. I would be one to get snared up by saying too much after a fender-bender... its just me. But something serious, a fatality, and someone might wonder about the non-ABS-style skid marks. Likelihood? Like you said, pretty much zero. (But, I once got asked, while standing next to my upside down Renault, why there weren't any skid marks... so sometimes it happens. ) Perhaps my comment should be seen more as a Board/poster CYA, or a caveat to the OP to be circumspect about the work-around.

I disagree with pretty much everything said on the included post, except for the value of cleaning a leaky injector. I am not wanting to start an argument, I just don't want others to get the impression that this is inarguable fact.

Replacement *TACH*??? just a typo?

Could it be we are confusing apples with oranges? As in: Electronic distributor, non-required RFI suppression. Mechanical/Points distributor, needed points-arc suppression.

I have little recent dealings with carbs, so definitely listen to others with current experience.

Not much to adjust, really. My first thought was that the carb float might be set wrong (too high), causing fuel to slosh nto the carb throat. Other thought was that the scews that mount the carb's top might be loose. Another possibility, unsupported by anything that you mentioned, is that the choke is not "coming off", so that when you slowed off of the highway it closed down and chocked the engine. All of these should have been accompanied by the smell of unburnt fuel. And, never underestimate the bad timing of t-belts breaking.

No functional issues, but your insurance company might have issues. Just a "C.Y.A." thought.

Having a single injector, I would expect that improper function would show up first as drivability issues (e.g. - poor idle, poor midrange response, poor full-throttle running). Beyond that, I like GG's response.

Even the EA82 clocks used a crystal for timing, so I would expect the later ones to also use this method. I would expect that the probable cause is a crystal that was out-of-spec at time of manufacture. Options seem to be to replace the clock, or locate a replacement crystal and R&R the one on your clock... (The second option was mentioned for the masochists amongst us.)

Hot-wire MAF, so possibility that the MAF might be damaged, but mine looks like it could hold up to a lot... in fact, it did. This summer I had an intake backfire (cross-mixed plug wires...) that actually blew the maf away from the vehicle (I was messing with ether, and had the airbox loose. The MAF survived and is still working. Maybe the IAC has stuff that would not like an overpressure... Haven't opened one up to see. Pretty much everything else would have hoses for "fuses".

Nag, nag, nag: Backfire can blow loose the PCV fittings into the intake, and that big emissions-test plug on same. End-of-nag.

Ground clearance. Or drive a rear-engine/rear-drive car like a (real) VW bug. Physics is getting the best of you.

Hmmmmm... While tinkering on the XT with the engine running, I heard the fuel pump making unhappy noises: Probably aeration tpe of noises. Didn't fell in the mood to crawl under the car just that minute (see aforementioned domestic reasons). Hopefully tomorrow I will feel better able to handle crawling in the mud. BTW.... bump

Edit: Duh... I reread Shawn's post better.... :endEdit

Yes. Recently, in another thread, a member stated that MilesFox's video showed the use of a regular, rubber o-ring rather than the Subaru rubberized metal washer/gasket. (I have not followed up to verify that statement.) If it is true, MilesFox may have had a reason that I do not know. Previous "wisdom" has said that only the proper gasket shoud be used, and my experience with installing a rubber o-ring instead has supported this in my mind. (Plus, I have about 20 of the "official" gaskets, so I am more likely to use them.) Edit: My internet bandwidth is poor, so discourages me from watching video streams. :endEdit

Remember that they are NOT proper o-rings, but rubberized metal gaskets.

I would be concerned about the quality of any pump that came with debris between the seal lip and the pump shaft. Coolant coming out of the weep hole is not a good sign, as that indicates possible coolant contamination of the pump's bearing.