old sub freak

it should be near your right foot if you are sitting in the drivers front seat.look up to the right of the gas pedel.you might need to remove the defrost tube to see it better. you can open it with some plyers ect to get the fuild flowing through the heater care. kind looks like a siringe? with a steel rod coming out of it. it could be the heater core is plugged.after you have it warmed up feel the small 1 inch heater hoses that go through the fire wall.they should both be warm.if not something is pluged or held shut like the temp switch we talked about. anyway good luck.not a good time to be without heat......bummer,Todd:banana:

hey Markus,thank you,very good job on the pictures.although i don't really don't like to draw attion to myself....haha ..i have had the thrasher sience 1995,the speedodometer broke in 96 with 247,000 miles on it.i would guess its got over 400,000 but thats a guess. you wouldn't think so by looking at it.....i love it!!!.anyway thanks again,i love to show it off. Happy Trails,Todd:banana: i guess this is my life in car form....

yes the "other way". is to use a dremmal tool and open up the plastic caseing on the drivers side of the heater core area. hunker down and look in from the drivers side at the area where the heater hoses go into the heater core. i just cut away enough plastic so as to pull the old heater core out,kinda like pulling out a tape deck or radio(hope this is all making sence) once you have the old core out make sure there is no sharp edges ect that could put a hole in your new core(the last time i got one from napa it was around $80 bucks i think).once you have the new one in place some zip tyes and some calking will hold it in place.i have replaced 3 or 4 heater cores this way.like you said who wants to pull or split the dash(those enginerers!!!) so again i hope this makes sence and works well for you.happy trails,todd:banana:

i too have been in the same spot.i ended up driving around with the pin out and if fiannly broke loose.what a affair though. drive for a block or so and check it out.good luck.they can be a bugger! todd

i say amen on the tire size as well.i have bought a subaru wagon with a "bad"tranny.only to notice different size tires.i put on new tires all the same size and it fixed the bad tranny.as far shifting out of 4x4 just go in a straight line for a short time and it should pop right out.the differnt size or even tread style can make shifting in or out very hard. good luck,todd

cool,thanks ,todd:banana:

hey gd,thats cool.does it matter what they look like inside.i compared 2 of them and the stuff inside the dist. were different. just 2 ways to do the same thing? thanks todd

so i limped it home.my daughter had brought down a "vented"dist.with 2 lines on the vacume advance.i didn't want to screw things up so i chanced it.i looked around my place and i have a few like that,vented and 2 lines on vacume advance.are they interchangable with non vented with one line on the vacume advance? any advice would be cool.thanks todd

thanks gd,i'll check it out,todd

i checked for play by trying to rock the shaft around,it seemed good.could this still be messed up even though the bushings seem ok? todd thanks guys!

thats sounds like a easy fix. thanks for the comfermation.todd:cool:

so here i am 100 miles from home[at my inlaws]and my dist.is jumpimg all over beond 3000rmp's its a 86 1800 overhead cam ,,,carberated 4 dr.4x4.in the past if any, ea81 dist did that i just oiled the dist bearings and bam its fixed.so i oiled mine and its still jumping around and craping out in higher rpms.any ideas? i'm having my daughter bring down a different distributor just as a stab in the dark.any thoughts would be cool.thanks,todd the old guy:confused:

hey folks, can a 84 brat pass emissions in los angles with a weber and a 1800 ohv.the motors tight. i have heard that you just turn in the air mixture in as far as you can and have it still idle.sounds to easy.any thoughts. see you this weekend.todd

john prine, dan hicks and his hot licks, commander cody and his lost planet airmen,david bromberg and yoko ono[yea right]i do like "stoned ruffneck' music.we have a record player in the shop.fun to see what can be had at goodwill for 99 cents rock on toddw/northern alinence?

hey general, thanks for the info. i was close but no cigar. take care, todd

on my friends 84 brat[ea81] had heads milled. now to adjust non adjustable valves. its been years since i did this, tighten all the way down, set 15 min., tighten till contact and 1/2 turn tighter? right?? any info would be cool .thanks todd ,see you at hood river

hey dr. i,m not biased. its just over the years i've seen trouble w/turbos. and yes lack of maintence probley had a part of it. i'm just asking around before i think of geting it. i'm good w/1978-1988,s i just don't want to get in over my head,with electronic power steering,air bags ect. it all sounds so advanced. anyway take care todd

r/x 6 or xt/6? anyway i got a chance to pick up a 2dr.coupe type w/a flat 6 ,are they a good machine like the nonturbo e81/e82 flat 4's. i heard there kind of touchy,frail?so are they tough, well built? true/false. todd

so how hard is it to get rid of air bags? i'm looking at one. are those 6's as strong as the e81,e82's? i heard there a lot of headaches. true or false toddhttp://community.webshots.com/user/todds173

hey isra, try this http://community.webshots.com/user/todds173 i'm still learning this. stuff take care todd

hey israbrat.nice turn out. hers 2 of my subarus check em out. could i drive them over there?http://communitywebshots.com/user/todds173 take care todd

hey mr. b, how about the international brotherhood of subaru FREAKS!!take a look todd http://community.webshots.com/user/todds173

hey rinatm, i finally got my pic on line.hope you can c them .take care over there todd

hey man, first thing i would check out would be the oil sending unit. they are known to read low w/age.try a new one[$25,30] bucks.resealing the pump $12 kit perty basice, now to pull the thing!!!!on a earlyer link[thread]we talked in depth about extration. they can be easy or<>?#$$%! pull of front pully ,then the 4 bolts. GENTLY pull up/down on oil filter,wd40ect. i use a small pry bar small wood block[as a shim, don't pry on the :plate they can brake off the "ears"i pry the horisontal"bolt afair"[over flow valve?] on front of pump ,with shim on block ketch the tip of bolt affair with your pry bar again rock oil filter up/down while putting presure on the single bolt on the front.take your time and "woory"it out.they seen to come out easer w/the motor hot.it can take 10 min or hours. some times i only got movement out while pushing down on filter.take your time its a main leak area.you'llbe glad when all the new seals are in.no more leaks good luck todd

hey bb, i should have explaned more. you shouldn't pry between the "plate" and the block.{i learned the hard way} i use a small pry bar ,a block of wood[for a shim] and pry off the "horisontal cap bolt afair "[over flow valve?"]on the front of pump while pulling up/down on the oil filter. use wd40 ect and baby it off. i've even filed the "plug" to make it easyer to install.tape off holes in pump so no filings get in.its worth the work .the seals are usualy hard and break in your hand. as long as you didn't break off one of the "ears", clean up any nicks so it fits flush.and you could get by. good luck todd