theflystyle

if its anything like the legacys its located in the engine compartment driver side. it is between the break fluid canister and the windshield fluid canister. is a cup looking thing with one fuel inlet and one outlet. in this picture it is silver but then again i dont know about the bajas exactly

i forgot to mention that i did check the refrigerant caps and did not see anything at all.. they were all dry as for the help i live on campus at mason ( in the dorms ) and would really appreciate it if i could get someone that knows their stuff to take a look at it before i take it to a shop. blazer is ridiculously close and if possible whens the soonest i could swing by and get you to look at it?? grossgary your about 40ish or so mins from me but its good to know that there are people in the area that are willing to help. i really appreciate it all

this forum is a life saver.. thanks nipper for the info and i will at least walk in with more knowledge of the situation. hopefully this will be a reasonable price to have fixed.. ( poor college student lol)

first i wanna say thanks for the many quick responses!! btw the car is a 94 legacy l with over 150k i opened the hood and noticed the compressor was not turning.. the belt running to it looks almost new and when turned by hand the unit turns freely. i did some searching trying to find out exactly what a "clutch" in regards to the ac compressor but am ending up a little confused. is it the front of the compressor? i saw a thread with a posting of a "clutch" here if you want to see which picture im talking about. LINK sorry for being such a newbie but im a youngin

hopefully this is a stupid question with an easy answer... my ac has gone out with the start of summer and its hard to tell why. i have one of those crappy charge canisters with the pressure readout which says i am in the yellow (not overly dangerous yet) and all the connections which the haynes say to check to make sure they are cold are not (such as the ones going to the firewall near the passenger side. the fans and everything run when the ac is turned on so that isnt a prob. i drove to two places from work today to get some ideas on prices, etc merchant - 50 just to inspect, 130-200 for vaccum and recharge midas - 20 to inspect, 90 to recharge before i bite the dollars on this one i would like some ideas and suggestions. i tried the search but came up short. on a side note, if anyone has any recomendations for places to take that would be great. I live in fairfax, va

guys... 35mpg is not out of the question. i get that on highway, sometimes a little more. but then again mine is a 2.2l fwd and not an awd

interesting read thanks for the input nipper!! it was quick

I am currently tire shopping for a good All Season tire. During my search I have narrowed it down to three tires in which I will end up choosing from. One thing I did notice was the weight varies anywhere from 21lbs to over 25lbs per tire. I tried to find some info about how a lighter or heavier tire may effect mileage and any other aspect but came up a little short. PS ( I am 90% sure I will be going with the P Zero Nero M+S which if you would like to know weighs the 21lbs. -Ali

i have fwd 94 legacy l... nothing fancy but try to keep well maintained. when filling up with pure hwy driving ive hit the highest of 32mpg... but this is my first time ever emptying out the tank

so i went home and quess what i did... i ran outa gas at an amazing 448 miles??? not so bad with a mix of city and mostly highway.. averages to about 29ish mpg which is really good in my opinion. finally saw the low fuel light thanks to the instructions by josh. just grounded the connector peice and the yellow box began to glow. side note. the needle kinda stopped under the line of E for quite a while and was there a while before the light turned on. makes the entire guage seem very conservative in my opinion.

thanks for the pics and info josh... i got a 94 so the procedures should be the same. next time im at my parents house i will be sure to test it out mechanically. if i get impatient i might just run the car till it stops.. thanks again

where exactly is this connector r22 located??

check for uneven wear on the rotors... also you might consider doing a complete brake overhaul (sounds bad but is easy) you can order a brake rebuild kit from 1stsubaruparts and it comes with the rubber peices, and seals for your brakes.. it will make a huge difference with a change in pads and rotors (if needed) DONT FORGET TO BLEED BRAKES PROPERLY

i know i should bring a gallon along with me one day and see where i go kaput, but never got around to it as well. does the low fuel light come on when the car starts and the other lights on the dash light up??

i have a 94 legacy l... the manual says its a 15 gal capacity tank but never have filled up more then 11ish or so. i have never seen the low fuel light and hit the e with usually around 300 or so miles.. (been averaging 32ish for hwy) i would love to find out if my light works

is it just me or are your rotors a little off?? the gashes look deep to me

its on a remote start key chain with 3 keys total counting the one in question.. as far as options go, i think i will try the lubricant first since its the cheapest.. then go for the replacement if last resort (in school, away from home so hard to do) thanks for the replies and help guys!! -ali

this may be a stupid question but i have to ask for a while now (couple months) ive been having trouble turning my key. it seems that i have to sit there for a while playing with the key in the ignition in order to get it to turn. i tried a spare key i dont use that often and the same situation. any ideas??? ali

that hatch looks better, but i wonder whats under the hood... civics must be in fear

PROBLEM FIXED... for now? hey guys thanks for all the help first off... and today was a bit of trial and error with the suggestions that were given to me here. I jumped started my car and then removed the positive battery terminal connection and the car was still running. I then headed over to advance to have them test my battery. They tried to pull the amps on it but the meter was giving a range from -.01 to -.05. I had the reciepts from the battery i just bought 2 months ago and they did a exchange no problem. (should have seen the look on his face with my grounding kit lol) I then installed the new battery expecting no problems what so ever. Well the car would start but not with my key, it would only start with my remote start. This was not normal so I called my bud from work since he has the same remote start and he said this happens on occasion from the battery terminal having buildup and corrosion on it. He said just clean it off and tighten down everything and your car should work. Next thing I know the car starts, runs and no dimming of the headlamps or anything!! I just did this all today so I can by no means say this was the definate cure, but I will go out on a limb and say the battery died so young since the corrosion on the terminal was keeping the alternator from fully charging the battery. But thanks again to all and if I have any future problems youll be hearing about them. -ali

i did a quick check for all the cables and everything.. but dont you guys think its weird that the lights and dash work (meaning lights etc) but as soon as i go to turn the car over everything cuts off... till tomorrow when i can check some stuff well see

i really like the replies.. im a little skep about taking it to an advance auto parts since the person most likely is a kid like me with the possibility of knowing nothing. im gonna get a volt meter but i was wondering where on the alternator to test... im assuming that when testing the battery, i will have nothing connected but instead just test the raw leads and expect 12v... im also gonna try the disconnect idea when the car is running to eliminate the alt...

Here is a little update... I was in the car checking the fuses inside and in the engine compartment... All the fuses were fine and while messing around I noticed another possible "symptom". When I recently place my key in the ignition and do not start the car, the lights inside the dash light up and the beeping occurs if the doors open, etc.. Then as soon as I try to turn the key to start the car everything cuts off immediatley.. I dont yet have a way to take the car to get the alternator tested, etc but i really appreciate all your help from everyone...

maybe i should have mentioned it before, but its a 1994 legacy l... but do you really think the battery already could be dead, like mention its only 2 months old... i dont have a meter of any sort so i would have to go to advance to get something tested.... but are there any things i can do to check around on my own until i can go somewhere?? thanks again

Hey guys, Well heres the story... The car wont start. I dont get the usual ticking when trying to turn over the car with the key, but instead its just completely dead. The car will only start if I get it jump started and while driving, if I hit the brakes the lights (inside and headlights) dim. I have no clue what it may be, but after some searching for some of the symptoms there could be things such as a bad alternator, blown fuse, or dead battery. Keep in mind I just purchased a battery less then 2 months ago. Any advice or help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks