theflystyle

might not be subaru specific, but i have had good sucess with cartalk.com read reviews and etc by your location

sorry to hear about your accident, i didnt know... i do hope you get all your strength and health back.

nothing wrong with junkyard rotors from a wrecked subie if you wanna go cheap lol.. but +1 on the tirerack, i got the brembo from them and loved them. i just wish i remembered what pads ive been using for all this time

ill take the black ss

do the Isuzu Aska CX's from 90-94 interchange all parts with bc legacys? like lights, bumper, grille?

lots of people chance the oil frequently in a shorter time period to clean out whats impossible to get with just a single oil change. but if you want to remove the pan thats fine, but real messy and theres a magnet in there you can clean as well

well for the above, my passenger side is just as strong as my side.. i dont know what else you could check, thats odd

if its anything like my legacy, there are clips you push in on each side and the clip being depressed lets the nozzle come off (mind you i have a 94)

have you tried viagra?? just joking, might want to try to remove the little jets on the hood and see if something is clogged up in the sprayers.. or maybe some dirt got sent through the fluid tank and got stuck in the tubing as mentioned before.. i on the other hand have had the problem of trying to realign my sprayers after they moved (thinking from buffer while waxing)

imagine if you died...................... no roll cage? no experience? sheesh

the tank like durability of the ej22 is my choice.. but then again i have a bias

i just changed my plugs in the 94 leg, the driver side plugs are the hardest, and the one closest to the driver is the hardest (without the right angle sockets, etc) i found the best way to get to that without any angle sockets is from the front parallel to the plugs.

i really like that subie from ny....

they installed fine, and i just had to secure them (zip ties) so they wouldnt move around to much... but they were well worth it, while your down there think about checking your brakes, like a rebuild with gaskets, etc...

here is just an update which may sound a little wierd i got my muffer and attached pipe replaced since there was an exhaust leak from a recently broken end pipe (one of the two exhaust pips from muffler broke off from rust). after this was changed the overall running of the car improved (idle and such) and the noise from the car when cold and holding a higher rpm was reduced drastically. was this sound and feeling contributed from the problem with the exhaust?? i find it hard to believe, and ive noticed the rpms still remain high when cold, but the drop when shifting and etc is not as noticable as before i think because the sound that usually accompanying it has been removed. any thoughts? and thank for the info about the binding... which got me worried

well its good to hear that it may be normal, but it just might be the fact i have never had it "wait" so long until it warms up. also, to answer you question i change the trans oil only (never flushed) and i try to get it done at least every change every 6 months or so( like winter --> summer) the car use to be in a garage, but not anymore. thanks for the replies -ali

well not much bad to say about my car and i always called her a tank, but there is an issue that has started this past couple of weeks that has got me wondering whats going on first the car is a 94 legacy l auto tranny fwd.. when the car is first used the tranny doesnt seemm to like to shift into final gear. although i cruise along at about 60 on the interstate, my rpms are around 3. the car is clearly struggling and any push on the gas sends the rpms spinning up with no real acceleration. eventually the car lurches forward, the rps whine down to about 2500 or so and my speed stays the same. some side notes i routinely change all oils including tranny and diff (front). the colors are always very pink (tranny) and the diff is always clear with that distinguished smell. there are no smells comming from the car after driving on interstate with rpms at 3000 for 15 or so minutes. the fluid levels are all in check and i let the car warm up before driving (remote start). i have no idea as to what the problem may be, but any advice or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. (when i searched online i found information that said something about fluid that may not run throughout the tranny until a certain temp, etc. but i have driven this car in cold weather before without issue) thanks again -ali

depending on how far you want to travel.. ive had good experiences with AK auto in mclean va.... try cartalk.com for someone closer to you

nice write up, but i dont know if i like the idea of my lamps not being sealed anymore.. i wonder what it would be like if i painted them the same hunter green my car is ... that would be interesting if you do the corners, can you post some pics of the process, as well as the after shots... thanks!!

any write up?? im not quite sure how you painted the insides.. i wouldnt tint the sides unless you can match it exactly as the fronts (if that makes sense)

pot is for the piston on the caliper.. one "pot" is one piston... more pistons, more braking power..

badges would be cool

some people just gut the bottom of the air box completely and have an entire bottom of the filter exposed

what kinda wine lol btw, i have a set of jdm headlamps i will be selling that would fit your car

did they touch your coolant system?