steve56

Need to clean up a set of sohc heads. Looking for advise on best tool for job. Ease of use is my criteria. Dont want to struggle. Company 23 has a nice compressor, but it only works on dohc heads.

The surface the cams ride on look and feel smooth. I can see some imperfections with a magnifying glass. Can the surface be touched up with anything, like emory cloth? Just came back from machine shop. No damage to cam surface area. Says I could clean cam suface area up with green pad. Put heads in tub with a little dawn dishwashing detergent and water then rinse and blow dry.

Thanks. Its a Torx Plus 45. Got one from my Subaru mechanic friend.

There are two diffrent bolts to remove the upper cam cover. I have the drive bit for the smaller bolt. What is the drive bit for larger bolt?

Yes its VVT. Thanks for the advise.

Have ej25 with spun bearing. Metal shavings in oil pan. Should I take the heads apart to check for metal shavings in cam bearing before reusing heads, or can the heads just be cleaned with soapy water before re use.

Yes I just swapped in the engine. Also I posted it as an 07 Legacy by accident. Its acutually an 05 Legacy. Is there a solution to the issue ?

Yes. Its electronic throttle body. Does disconnecting the battery for 30 miutes really reset the ecu. I never understood the resetting of ecu. I thought the ecu program was saved in memory even with the battery disconnected.

I did a Jdm 2.0 swap into a 2007 Legacy. Didn't attatch coolant lines running into throttle body. Engine having a problem holdinga low idle. Do the coolant lines have any effect on idle. What are their purpose. OOps make that a 2005 Legaacy not 2007 Legacy.

I did a Jdm 2.0 swap into a 2007 Legacy. Didn't attatch coolant lines running into throttle body. Engine having a problem holdinga low idle. Do the coolant lines have any effect on idle. What are their purpose.

Thanks for the procedure. I knew it had to be simple, just couldn't figure it out.

The one 10m bolt that seems to fasten the overflow tank to radiator is lower than the top of tank. No room to get socket or other wrench on it. The older style overflow tanks have two 10m bolts that are easily assessable. How do I get the 06 tank off .

Thanks. I knew it was something other than a metal structure that the hinge bolt turned in to. Is the captured nut attached to something in the hood. I know it must be held in there by something. Interstingly the bolt is just barely stripped on the end but the captured nut seems to be complelely threadless. Can the capture nut be tapped out for a next size larger hinge bolt.

I don't think the bolt hole is in a solid piece of metal, so it may not be a normal helecoil/ time cert application. Don't know though, because Ive never stripped a hood hinge bolt hole.

Removed hood on 04 OBW. When reinstalling the hood, one of the four hood hinge bolt holes in the hood stripped, so can't tighten hood hinge bolt. What's the best proceedure to repair the bolt hole in the hood?

Think I found problem. There was some questionable wiring from an aftermarket stereo that was causing the positive battery cable terminal not to be making good contact with the positive battery post. I think it was from a now missing amp. Disconnected the amp wire and the headlight problem went away. This young guy had thousands in receipts for chasis lowering, stereo,tires ect. Then over revved and blew the motor on car with just 80k miles.Sometimes youth is wasted on the young.

Yes I recently swapped in a jdm 2.0 and the alt. belt does squeal a bit on start up. I will check for voltage drop. Thanks. Ive got several Imprezas with spun bearings that I'm doing engine swaps on, so I'm having some fun with cels and wiring.

Recenly bought a 2006 OBW that has been lowered. When steering wheel is turned all the way to either side the lights flicker. Anyone experience that situation.Don't think there is a headlight circuit wire pinching when fully turned. Doesn't seem to happen whed front is on jack stands. My only thought is excessesve draw on alternator by power steering pump when wheels are fully turned. What a mess. Im also looking for a solution to raise the car back up. Looks like the springs are adjustable.

Heres a Wikipedia article on Subarus variable valve timing system. Active valve control system From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia The active valve control system (AVCS) is an automobile variable valve timing technology used by Subaru. It varies the timing of the intake valves by using hydraulic oil pressure to rotate the camshaft in order to provide optimal air flow in and out of the engine. The system is closed loop using camshaft sensors, crankshaft sensors, air flow meter, throttle position as well as oxygen sensors and/or Air-Fuel ratio sensors in order to calculate engine load. The ECU is programmed to operate control valves that adjust the delivery of the hydraulic pressure in order to move the camshaft into the position that will provide the engine with the best performance while minding emissions standards. AVCS is used on the Version 7 and up EJ207 engines, the EJ255 and EJ257, the second generation EZ30D (2005+ in the USA Market) found in the Legacy Outback, Legacy 3.0R and the B9 Tribeca. A Dual AVCS system utilizes both the intake and exhaust camshafts on the EZ36 found in the 2008 Tribeca and on the 2008+ STi EJ257 (W25 heads). Dual AVCS is present on the new FA20 engines in the 2015+ WRX and BRZ, though they actuate with a different method than those of the older engines. Dual AVCS is also found on Japanese Spec engines, although a complete list of the engines with Dual AVCS has yet to be compiled. AVCS[edit]The implementation of AVCS is quite different from AVLS. The latter just changes which cam is operating one of the two valves. In AVCS, the engine computer (ECU) can command a solenoid which advances or retards the camshaft rotation by up to 35 degrees. By retarding the cams at idle or very low engine loads, you achieve a smoother, easier idle. From idle through medium engine loads, AVCS advances the intake valves to begin opening during the last part of the exhaust stroke, when the exhaust valves are still slightly open. Some of the pressure created during the exhaust stroke flows into the intake manifold, having the effect of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). The intake valves also close earlier during the intake stroke. This helps with engine efficiency and fuel economy. At very high engine loads, AVCS advances the intake valves further to open even sooner during the exhaust stroke. This produces a scavenging effect – that is, intake airflow helps clear the cylinder of exhaust gas. It also closes the intake valves sooner on the compression stroke. This results in improved volumetric efficiency and helps to generate higher power output

All I can speak to is my ej25 to ej20 swap on the 2005 OBW. That was my first jdm 2.0 swap. The company that sold me the jdm ej20 has been importing jdm engines for many years and knows what is a direct swap and what is more trouble. I recall them saying one of the reasons an 2006 jdm 2.0 wouldn't work for me was because it had variable valve timing and my 05 OBWs ej25 didnt. They didnt go any further in explaining the differences like oil pan size,knock sensor ect. I have seen other disscusions that say if you swap in jdm 2.0 engine with variablle valve timing into a Subaru that doesn't have it you would also have to swap the heads. To know for sure whats going on, Google Foreign Engines Inc. in Lynwood Wa. and give them a call. They can tell you exactly about the compatability of the jdm engine you are installing.

Yes as Adventure Subaru suggested it was the crank pulley. I had already swapped in the drivers side cam pulley from the Ej25, but got in a hurry and forgot to check to see if the crank sprockets were the same.I believe the 2006 ej25 has variable valve timing, so that would be programed into your ecm. If your ej20 doesn't have variable valve timing your going to have a compatability problem. The 2005 jdm ej 20 was a direct swap into my 2005 OBW. You always need to use your original intake with its wiring harness.

Yes, I've been fighting that toothed idler pulley for years. The strange thing is I've just walked away, come back, and it goes right on. Have done many engine swaps and head gaskets, but r and r of the t-belt always gives me trouble.The problem makes no logical sense to me.

Given the milage, if its an engine oil leak, it most likely coming from a seal or valve cover gasket. If its leaking coolant its most likely the head gasket. Seals and valve cover gaskets are relatively inexpensive repairs.

Thanks fo taking the time to do a comprehensive explanation of the procedure. I will use it i on next T-belt. Ive never seen any Subaru T-bellt done without either putting the lower toothed and smooth pulleys or the tensioner back on after the t-belt was installed.

Check out South Main Auto on YouTube, Eric O is a very knowlegable mechanic who understands Subarus.