zmarrott

I believe i found the cause finally. I was poking at any temperature sensors cause it atarted acting up more than normal since i drove to a cold area. Bumped the main harness connectors behind the right side of the block and it instantly started running correct. Ive noticed zero issues since.

Do you have a picture of it?

New knock sensor cuz it threw a code shprtly after i bought the car last year. Placed at the proper angle. Same as everything else, no affect on the issue. Some things have steadied it some, like the new pcv valve, but most have had little or no actual affect on the core idle isse

Hose from iacv to vacuum is new. Iacv is brand new and clean. No change for old vs new iacv. New battery as of december. Havent done a test on my alternator. Voltages from sensors looks stable. Only time we saw a bad signal voltage was on the old front o2 sensor

For over a year now ive been chasing my idle issue on my car. When sitting at temp idling, it will hunt between roughly 1100 to 600 rpm. Occasionally will stumble and have very little power for a split second when i accelerate from a stop. When desceling in gear it will jerk sometimes and other times give no engine braking force. Intake has been smoked multiple times and no leaks except for very small bit before the throttle body around the airbox. Cold start is commonly at 2000rpm amd will stay there for a few minutes until the engine gets near temp. Sometimes the cold start will be at upwards of 2600 rpm too. Things ive done in the past year to try to correct this issue include, new iacv, new tps, new spark plugs and wires, valves adjusted, pcv leaks fixed, broken airbox replaced, new front o2 sensor, cleaned throttle body. Most recent was the TPS and recleaned the throttle body about a week ago. The spec on the tps is to read 0.5 v at closed throttle. My car being non adjustable on the tps sits at 0.6 v. It seemed to run fine when i first put the sensor on and test drove while watching the scanner data, but now has gotten worse again. Throttle plate has been adjusted as far closed as possible too. Any ideas/tips on what could be my issue?

So i already understand the programing process for keyfobs to my car, but im wanting to change the remote. Id like to get a key/remote single piece, like some of the newer subarus have, vs the key and remote are 2 separate pieces on my keychain. Has anyone done this before or know of a key/remote that works with 3rd gen legacy/outbacks? Im not worried about genuine oem at all, just want to know if its possible

Much appreciate the info guys. Wheels and adjustable coilovers is how ill go then after i of course replace all the worn out bushings lol. What brand coilovers would everyone suggest?

Id like to change how my legacy sits, but im not a big fan of spacers or hub adapters like that because they cause extra stress which id like to avoid. My legacy has very worn out suspension, plus it sits the wheels about 3-4 cm tucked under the fender. I ive read somewhere that the outbacks have a taller suspension and ive seen they have a bit of a fender flare on them which makes me wonder if they also have a wider stance. As a personal preference, i like the wheels to sit even with the edge of the fender, so my thought would be if i were to get a full outback suspension setup and then just lower it to where i like, then i could possibly get the stance i like without undue stress from spacers. Any input is appreciated

Ok found it. I had tried wiggling the battery terminals but not the wires on the terminals. My positive terminal cracked causing the side that feeds the fuse box to be lose. Tightened it down and a chunk of the terminal fell off lol

Ok i stopped at home for lunch and just smacked the knee board really hard and power came back on.

Im at work currently so cant do anything at the moment but battety terminals are tight and havent been moved in about 5 months. In my mind, battery or alternator wouldnt cause such an audible click like a really loud relay in my dash when the power fails. Ill be doing diag on it tonight when its cool out but i just want to get as much info as i can before hand

So it first happened yesterday when i got to work. Ill commonly shut the engine off but leave the radio on for a few minutes, but this time i heard a pop in the speakers and all power in the vehicle was gone. Lights, horn, radio, dash, nothing had power. It started working again after a few min of me just visually checking the vattery and all my major engine bay fuses. Tried to drive it to work today and it started fine but i got maybe 20 ft and power started flickering with a click in the dash. Got it back parked and it did the same thing when i shut it off, all power gone. So i had to drive the brat to work (sarcastic 'oh no') but where in the dash can kill all electrical in the car? I can do electrical diag some but bad wires are a pain

168k miles. As for use history of car, no idea. Ive had the car for 2 weeks. Bought it from a girl whos selling point was that its a reliable car which to me means she neglected maintenance thinking it didnt need to be done. Though it is a very clean specimen for 16 years old so im assuming mostly city and higheay use. How hard is inner tie rods? Ive done outer on a few vehicles but never inner

I picked up a 2001 legacy gt limited recently, and of all the little issues it has my steering is the most annoying and worrying. At speed on the freeway theres about a 5-10° deadzone in the steering which makes for a slightly sketchy drive at 90. Also while going over any not smooth surface (cattleguard, dirt road, speedbump etc.) I can hear something shaking in the front end. I jacked it up and did a look and it appears that all my bushings are good. Nothing looked very worn nor could i shake any components with the exception of the tie rods. Could just tie rod ends cause such an issue? Or might it be in the rack itself. I also checked the steering joint under the brake booster and it appears solid enough. I manually tried twisting the shaft in the engine bay while leaning on the wheel and it seemed to act exactly like the steering wheel itself; worryingly large dead zone. Any history of the steering racks having a lot of slop in them? Any input on this would be greatly appreciated

On the strut replacements, anyone have any input on the quality of sensen products? Oreilys has front monroe complete struts but not rear, but i can find both front and rear sensen complete struts at autozone. And id rather not have to wait 1-2 months for them to ship if i order from amazon

Forester2002s, thats the plan. Replacing the full strut and spring assemblys, not just the shock portion. I had an 88 gl that was doing the same thing but way worse but just never got around to doing it.

Rooster2, its honestly the first time ive been excited to buy a car lol. Nearly tge exact car ive been wanting, early 2000's legacy, manual with i was hoping the h6, but that seems uncommon in the sedans. Anyways, general maintenance is simple. I like to 'reset' the maintenance cycles for the simple stuff whenever i get a car. Probably after that, the first big thig ill to is struts all around. The car is leaning back weird. Front has like 4 inches clear above the tire to the arch and the back has less than 2 inches clear and it feels bouncy like the shocks are going out. Easy fix and not worried about alignment because its off a bit already. grossgary; torque bind? Im not sure i know what that is. Acting like a 4wd instead of awd im guessing?

pull the sensors from their housing in the knuckles too see if theyre dirty or have foreign objects in there and aroung the tone rings. My friends car had a wheel bearing go bad and it exploded grease and bearing pieces into the tone ring making the car randomly engage abs while braking. No abs light or code either

So im purchasing a 2001 Legacy GT Limited on monday and im currious what common issues there may be to look out for. Its a manual 5spd with about 168k. I understand the 2.5 is known for head gasket issues, but beyond that im not sure. My subaru experience is mostly with the older 80's models

Should be pretty simple. Fronts are same for 2wd and 4wd. Gotta pull off the axel nut, then the 4 bolts holding the hub to the brake rotor. Then just take a small sledge and hit the axel in. Youll see when the hub is free of the splines. Rears are easier on both with slight difference 2wd vs 4wd. 4wd, take off the axel nut and hit the axel out then wiggle off the drum. 2wd should be similar, but i dont remember exactly, its just not an axel and you dont hit the spindle out. Shouldnt need to replace anything either unless you notice anything damaged. Also id suggest a punch of sorts or be carefull when hitting out the axels so not to mar the threads on the end

Had a similar issue with my 88 gl running a mutt ea81. Had a old disty with mechanical points failing. If you have mechanical points, try to get a condenser with it. Looks like half a AA batery on a wire. Replaced the points and it fired up just fine. Coil is another very likely issue if electrical. Next would be to check fuel delivery as already stated

Sorry, edited the last one pretty late. Found bent valves after adjusting them properly. Head gaskets are brand new. Leaving the car to a friend

So little update. Fixed poor cooling, we pulled the rocker convers and valves apear to be functioning right. Ran a compression test, and huge issue. Cylinders 1 and 4 have about 150 psi. cylinders 2 and 3 have zero. Adhusted the valves properly this time and same story. Bent valves. Giving car to a friend here in houston

Checked the plugs and one of them had less than a mm of gap. Pulled it out to match the others. Now have maybe 2 times the power, but still not full. Got a few miles toward home depot and it over heated, which im pretty sure is due to a clogged thermostat. Heading to get a new thermostat now

Well dropping the exhaust had no effect. Starting fluid seemed to help a bit, but only when its about to stall which seems like normal for any car. Currently working on installing the cooling fan so i dont overheating