zmarrott

took a good look under the engine and to find where every leak is coming from I sprayed off the whole underside with 2 spray bottles worth of degreaser then a pressure wash rinse off and it looks like it may actually be from the front crank seal. hopefully that doesn't require anything like splitting the block does it?

not sure the exact locations of the leaks except that the whole bottom of the engine is wet with oil up to the valve covers and around the oil pump. id bet it is the original pump, as the car didn't have the best childhood before I got it. rusty as all hell, and a good amount of body damage on the passenger side along with dry rotting hoses all over.

is there much of a problem when pulling the oil pump? ive read other threads mentioning that it is very very easy to warp the pump and cause leaks upon reassembly, and from what I can see in my area, I have very limited access to a new one and I don't really have the money to fork $200 to my local Subaru dealer to get me a new one. Pulling the oil pan is something ive been planning to do as well as the rocker covers, been leaking from all 3 as well as the oil pump from what I can see.

i pulled off the airbox to get a good look at the carb yesterday, and to me it looks like theres something wrong with the choke. when cold its fully shut, and opposite when at temp. no movement from the throttle or playing with the linkages, and the plastic housing that has a wire going into it for the choke is not tight at all. the bracket that is supposed to be screwed on to hold it has one screw that's been replaced by a now broken pop rivet. also i played with the mixture screw till it felt more responsive, which also happened to be with the screw all the way in. and it did start fine this morning except for the oil pressure. as for oil, ive been running high mileage 10w30 and high mileage fram filters. before, my oil pressure would usually go i think just above 50 on cold start and when at temp, the idle was around 25 psi. and it seems to fluctuate more, though i may just be noticing it more than normal. my uncle suggested running 5w30 for an oil change to see if it would clear the oil pressure spike on startup, cuz we were thinking maybe some gunk got knocked loose and got caught in an oil passage.

EDIT: just went to start it after it sat for a few hours, and same problem. However this time I noticed I have very high oil pressure. almost in the red of the pressure gauge. where should I go from here?

so this morning for the first time since I figured out how to start my car in cold, I had one hell of a time getting it running. as I found out a few months ago, I have to pretty much prime the engine by stepping on the gas twice before cranking and itll fire right up. however this morning after doing the same thing, it just kept cranking with out firing. tried stepping on the gas while it was cranking, and nothing. after a minute of this it finally fired, but was only holding about 500 rpm idle. that's not so unusual, as ive seen it do this idle before. when I tried to bring up the rpm, it killed it right away. start it back up, same low idle. now I can bring it up to about 1000 before it dies. try again, and it goes to about 2000 before it wants to die. I held the rpm at about 1700 for a few minutes before I saw the temp needle move, and after that it seemed fine. im guessing my carb somehow threw it self out of wack, as ive had it be hesitant to rev up when cold like the mixture is off a bit. any ideas or consensus on my idea of whats wrong? and if it is the carb, where is the mixture screw? I believe I have the hitachi carb.

Wow just reasized how cocky that last comment made me sound. I really didnt like that dealership lol. Ill take a look at the fuse box after work

Just took a road trip to rescue my '85 from storage. Averaged 17 mpg while towing it the 400 miles and made a lot of road trains lol. Both cars are also filled with stuff from the same storage unit. Total weight was probably just over 7000 lbs

Lol i was pissed when they told me that they pretty much did nothing, then they thought wrong that they might find a new harness (as if. I could have told them that). Luckily they at least the peace of mind to not charge me for their incompatence. And to be clear, am i checking the fuse box by the knee board, or behind the battery?

So previously i had some headlight and blinker issues, and after taking 'grumpy car', as ive dubbed it, to a subaru dealer, they told me theres a short in the wiring harness and didnt fix anything. Yet somehow havent had blinker problems since. Anyways fastforward 3 months to now, my headlights completely stopped working, along with the horn, hazards (blinkers still functional), cooling fans and memory power for the dash clock. Did a fuse blow or a wire come loose or hopefully not some carestrophic short? From what ive seen any fuses i know of are still good, so im a little baffled

Just looks like fuel, or smells too? Either way if theres liquids in there, pressure got back up the wrong way from the cylinders. As far as head gasket apart from the misplaced fluids, i would think not. Anytime ive had a head gasket blow, the car was still running and i felt a big difference in power. Suddenly off with now big shudder or power drop sounds more electrical to me. Id first pull the plugs to see how dirty they are and if theyre wet with oil/coolant (indicating either head gasket or if your really unlicky something much worse like piston rings). Next double check all ignition components are properly installed connected and have no noticable damage. When cranking does it sound normal?

Im pretty sure the small blue one is the oil filler tube gasket. Looks very similar to the one on my ea81 i did. Other one may just be a same thing on a different engine

For the headlights, if it is a bad connection in the switch, i presume just snaging a switch from a similar year gl should fix it. If its a relay, where would i find the relay in the car? I know theres a set of 3 relays next to the fusible links, one of which clicks when the highbeams come on, yet can all be removed and it still works like 'normal'.

So i finally made the road trip to rescue my lovely crusty beast from the inevitable doom of rotting in a connecticut parking lot. As of now i have 3 electrical issues im having trouble finding much info on: first off my head lights. Parking lamps work but low beams do not. Tried hooking in new lamps but still only high beams turn them on. Second is my left turn signal. Sometimes its fine, and sometimes the front one doesnt turn on. Ive even had it change while the signal was on. Loose/corroded wire? Not really sure where to look. Lastly is my ignition switch. Previous owner hooked up a dual pole on-off-on style toggle stitch and push button as the ignition. Works fine except i cant just turn on accessory. Its either all or nothing. Does anyone have a diagram as to how i could rewire the ignition to have a just accessory position as well?

where would i look for an FSM? i dont know what year the engine is

yep. really hate leaving my car. if i could i would pull the engine and rebuild it. ill get it from my friend sometime in the future after im back on my feet. in the mean time ill get my other two subies brought to my home state. gotta put some tlc into my brat and other gl

while my engine is a mutt, it does still have the do not adjust stickers. i figured it being 30 years old might give reason to adjust. unfortunately though ive reach a point where i have to financially give up for now. im leaving the car to my friend who is 60 miles away while i catch a bus home 1400 miles away

even with my wrong procedure, im thinking somehow a few lifters went bad? could that cause the issue? and could the just suddely go bad like that? it ran before i pulled the heads to do the head gaskets, but now its can barely run at all

one method mentioned in the HTKYSA is to mark where each spark plug wire comes out of the disty on the side, and hand spin the engine till the rotor botton is at a mark. each one is roughly TDC for its corresponding cylinder. does exact TDC matter for valve adjstments? i would think it only has to be somewhere within the compression/ignition strokes when both valves are fully closed. edit: so upon reading a bit deeper it did say to not gap hydraulic. so now how do i adjust them back? or do i just put the adjustment somewhere in the middle and let the hydrolic lifters do the work?

ive been fighting my engine for nearly a week now. problem after problem, fix after fix, and my latest issue is valve adjustment. on the passenger side i got them adjusted as per HTKYSA: .010 on intake valves and .014 on exhaust valves. they all had to be run back pretty far to get the cleaeance to open enough. but on the drivers side i could only adjust the from intake valve to the proper clearance and just barely at that. had to turn it out all the way till the pushrod cup was about hitting the rocker arm. the other three i couldnt even get any clearance with the cups firmly against the rocker arms. anyone know of what could cause my valve clearance issue? car souns like im only running on 2 cylinders. engine is an 84-85 ish i believe with hydrolic lifters. not sure the year cuz its not original to the car.

did you disconnect the battery before attempting? if not you may have shorted something durring the installation. make sure to check all your fuses. ive blown more than a few by playing with wires with the battery installed. however if you did remove the battery, then i would think you may have crossed something or grounded the wrong wire which could causes strange electrical issues. take a look at this page if the loyale is the one your usrname refers to: http://www.modifiedlife.com/1993-subaru-loyale-car-stereo-wire-diagram/ ive gone to that site on a few occasions while setting up stereos in my cars

bump for more numbers? non original ea81 hydro in my 88 gl sn: 684238

i got the car running after getting the new pushrods and pretty much quadruple checking they were all in properly before trying to turn the engine. made sure i could hand turn it fully then oil change and new coolant. took about 10 minutes to cook out all the coolant that was sitting in the exhaust. gotta do a valve adjustment though. has some trouble staying running.

so my pushrods are smooth the full length, which if your right, jono, means its hydrolic lifters. the picture from rockauto appeared to be the same, which they should be here sometime tomorrow. this is a picture of one of my bent ones. id clean the carbon off if i had the time and money to properly rebuild the engine, which i will do sometime in the future, but cant at the moment

i have no idea which lifters i have, and the engine is not the original in the car, so i dont know when it was made. would my old pushrods be able to offer up which type of lifters i have? engine is in the car, so i cant get a good enough look at the lifters themselves