zmarrott

The engine is an ea81, not an ea82, and apologies, vague questions and poor wording is what happens half asleep at 130 in the morning. The direct questions i was refering to more go with my brat when i swap the carb. Im more looking for troubleshooting help right now. There are a few questionable vacuum system routings, but no leaks and they ran before so, not so worried about those right now. Loyale, how much of an effect could old gas have? Ive run some old gas before, but never felt anything close to whats happening now. Aa well i know that my throttle cable is at least opening far enough to open the secondary on the carb, so that shouldnt be an issue at all. And naru, i will definitely try dropping the headers and see what i get.

I know this topic has come up countless times, but i never seem to fully get the answers i need when browsing existing posts. Never mind my brat that im planning on putting my rebuilt weber on sometime this winter. Currently im trying to get my 88 gl running right. When i purchased it, it already was running a weber (the same one thats gonna go on my brat), but somewhere in its past the stock turbo ea82 got sloppily swapped to a n/a ea81. I was desperate for a car at that time and couldnt pass up this car. No idea what happed to the ea82, but thats what i got. Few months later it blew head gaskets. The temp sensor was never hooked up, so over heated probably lots of times. Did the head gaskets in a hotel parking lot, but it wouldnt run, so i had to take a bus home. Fast forward a year to today. Found out the original reason it didnt run was bad coil wire. Thats replaced, wiring on engine fixed including remp sensor and I have a brand new 32/36 weber w/manual choke bolted to the intake (old one had all gaskets deteriorate, and new carb was faster). We got it running, but oh my is she under powered. My craptachi brat pulls at least 5 or more times harder than this. I dont know if the lifters are just being weird and not opening my valves (fluids not drained when head gaskets done, so fluids mixed), if im too rich or lean, its just weird. I have new plug, wires, coil, disty pieces. Throttle doesnt seem to want to hold one position very well, even with the addition of another throttle return spring, and is very slow to rev up. I did turn in the idle mix screw till its just over 2 turns out, but that didnt help much. Any tips or pointers on setting up a new weber will be much appreciated. Doesnt need to be perfect, just run run for 2000 miles and i can fully rebuild it properly

Still mulling over how I'm gonna get that head off. My uncle suggested soaking the thing in pb blaster after I've got the engine out, then tack welding a nut to the stud and turning out the stud. Not sure how well that will work though. I've snapped a few bolts that were packed with rust, but those were also much smaller than the head studs. Another thought I had was after I've got the engine on the stand, attach a jig of sorts to all the accessory bolts on the head that sticks out in line with the cylinders, then use that to beat on to hit the head straight off vs hitting the head itself perpendicular to the studs

Loss for words.. I go to put the pushrods and rockers back in, and of course the head I can't get off has coolant gush out of the bolt holes when I push the bolts in. I don't know what to do now cuz I don't have the money to have a shop take the head off

I assume a nice fine grit, but what specifically would you recommend? Also, among the rusted bits included was the large vac line to the item in the included picture. What is it?

If I wasn't in such a time crunch, I'd spend the time to get that head off, but I still can't get it to move. I think the center stud being filled with rust is what's causing this. I've had other bolts be stuck due to the hole being packed with rust, but this being a stud, I don't have a good way to twist it to start moving the rust. Gonna cross my fingers and reassemble the engine. Is there a good way I can scrub the head surface clean? I've never had much luck with plastic scrapers as the just get marred on every stuck thing on the surface. Milling isn't an option right now due to my time crunch and lack of funding.

So basically I can trash that hose and plug it. Gonna do as much emission delete as I can while this far into my engine. My question now, is it have one head off, and I can see some damage to the gasket, so that's easy, but the other head will not budge any way I try. I've taken my small sledge with a punch and given it a few sharp whacks in non critical spots, full over head swings from my deadblow hammer, and sticking my sledge handle in the exhaust port and trying to pull it off. All to no effect. There's even still coolant filled up to the level of the intake port on this side, so I obviously haven't even budged it at all. One thing I noticed is that the center head bolt seems to have a bunch of rust around it filling the excess space in its hole. The rust is also dry, so it's been pretty much hermetically sealed in the head for 30 years. Do I need to pull this head off if it appears to not be the one that leaked coolant to the oil? I'm also afraid that if I leave it, I may have another problem come up before Im back to my other car at the end if the summer.

Update: got the line off with a few whacks on a firm bite with vise grips. On teardown I just have to drop the exhaust and then the heads come off. Still would love to use this as a perfect opportunity to remove surplus hoses and such from the engine. I'm not worried about passing and inspection as I'm out of my home state, and as soon as I get back its getting vintage registration

Almost overheated the other day, and come to find out having fixed my coolant leak caused a head gasket to blow between coolant and oil. My car being from Connecticut is very rusty and can be difficult to remove parts without breaking them. As I'm stripping the engine, I'm currious what if any parts I can remove or bypass to clean it up a bit. My first issue I've come across with teardown is this little I think coolant line going from the intake to the right side head. I can't get it to turn. I soaked the nut in pb blaster last night with no apparent effect. Since the heads are i thought supposed to be interchangeable, I'm currious if I can just remove this entirely.

In the past I've had harness shorting issues and random blown fuses for head lights, so what I did was bypass the stock harness for the headlights, only reusing the relays for the new headlight harness I put together. I've also done an H4 headlight conversion. What id like to do now is integrate the stock light switches into my system to clean up my dash a bit. At the moment I have a pair of switches at the flat spot under the wiper switch for my headlights that I need to fix the mounting. I've identified the connector in the dash for the headlights switch, but not where the high beam wires are. Wires on the harness side of the connector are: Red Red w/yellow Red w/white Red w/green Black I'm wanting to know what each wire is in the connector I found and where the high beam wires are.

In the past I've had harness shorting issues and random blown fuses for head lights, so what I did was bypass the stock harness for the headlights, only reusing the relays for the new headlight harness I put together. I've also done an H4 headlight conversion. What id like to do now is integrate the stock light switches into my system to clean up my dash a bit. At the moment I have a pair of switches at the flat spot under the wiper switch for my headlights that I need to fix the mounting. I've identified the connector in the dash for the headlights switch, but not where the high beam wires are. Wires on the harness side of the connector are: Red Red w/yellow Red w/white Red w/green Black I'm wanting to know what each wire is in the connector I found and where the high beam wires are.

i ran empty in my brat a week or two ago and after that it was always sputtering under load. replaced the filters and pump and no more fuel issue. i had the original pump and i believe filters (car was treated like crap before me), so it didnt surprise me at all that running it empty fouled up something. you probably just got a worse case of what i had, so id bet at least a new pump, or somehow cleaning out your current pump will help. got mine for about $55 at orielys. for the no spark, coil as you said is my first place to look. the soda can coils ive seen can go bad quick sometimes. worst case senario the pick-up coil or something in the distributor whent bad so its not telling the ignition coil to fire correctly.

ive never heard of a disty cap gasket and i just pulled off my 3 or month old one to look and its just plastic cap to metal disty. no gasket or rubber buffer of sorts. may be different if you have a different ignition system. i have hitachi which the disty cap is held on by 2 spring clips vs the other type which is 2 screws.either way, as far as i know theres no gasket needed for the cap

heard back from the guy today. looks like i may not be able to see the car in person, but possibly the next best thing: supposedly there is a whole book on this exact conversion. he told me that its a 3 cylinder kabota and it can get about 100 mpg city and 75 highway(55-60 mph). unfortunately i might not be able to update further for a while as im about to leave the state for work for a few months, but ill do my best to learn more.

before i know i had fuel coming from both, so maybe mine is different?. i do know that the accelerator kicked fuel through the secondary when the throttle was punched, didnt need high rpm. not 100% sure if it was constan though

IT DIED!!! FACK! this morning on my way to work i noticed that my car sounded quieter than normal; less of the usual muffler-less popping. now this evening coming home from work, it was slow to get up to freeway speed, then i slowly noticed i wasnt holding speed, and was actually flooring it and slowing down. i pulled off and i couldnt even hear the car idling apart from my noisy as all hell water pump pulley. it could hold idle mostly fine, apart from being really quiet, but i couldnt hardly rev up at all. maybe 2000 rpm before it plateaued like it was delivering the most fuel it could. i pulled off the air box, and saw that the rear jet in the carb has zero fuel coming out of it even when i punch the throttle, but the jet under the choke flap appears to be flowing fine. pulled the fuel line off the side of the carb and cranked it, and it has fuel pressure (not very much, though most of my experience is with fuel injected cars so i may just be wrong). im thinking its clogged somehow, or something is stuck inside and ive never taken apart a carb, so this area is where my knowledge ends. what im curious is, can i just blast carb cleaner through the fuel inlet on the carb to see if it can clear it up, or if it really needs to be rebuilt. i havent gotten a chance to check for rebuild kit availability in my area, so im not sure how long that may take to get. also, for possibly getting a rebuild kit, the ones ive found specify a specific carb # and have multiple kits listed. where do i look to find which carb i have? all i know its its a hitachi carb.also how long should a first time carb rebuild take? ive got a decent amount of personal mechanical experience plus i work at a dealership (ford, unfortunately, but still lots of knowledgeable people) where i may be able to get some good help.

lug pattern has nothing to do with offset. offset is gonna vary between most cars. for instance i can find 6x140 pattern nissan wheels that have a near identical offset to the stock 4x140 wagon wheel rims off my car and i can find same lug pattern with a ton more offset to where id have limited turning but its the same rim size. 6x140 is id think your only option if your gonna redrill. no room for any other pattern to properly fit on the hubs. anything other than that youll need an adapter plate

just replace the starter. i had starting issues for a long time of only hearing a click and i kept getting told, its the switch not the starter cuz a starter needs lots of use to go bad. i also have push button start as my key ignition looks like it got hit my a meat grinder...anyways, after replacing the starter a few months ago, ive had zero starter related issues. you can get them from your local parts store for a decent price.

i got a engine gasket kit from oreilys when i did it but you can find them on ebay too. mine was about $60 i think and had everything you need to do the heads plus a few more. head, valve cover, intake, carb, egr, exhaust, oil filler, and a bunch of other stuff i dont remember. and id have to dig my extra engine head out from the depths under my bed, but if i remember right, theres no freeze plug or any under the valve covers

ive only ever dropped the transmission to get in there, but as Downwash77 and crazyhorse001 said, they pull just the engine, leaving the trans in the car.

if your seeing water on the dipstick, i would suspect head gasket is your only bet. anything on the intake doesnt have the ability to get into the oil i dont think. head gaskets on the ea81 are very easy to do, at least compared to current engine head gaskets. i was lucky and had experience with a head gasket on my dohc saturn, so push rod was a piece of cake. though if you do end up pulling the heads, dont be a dumbass like i was. drain the fluids, so you dont flood your lifters with coolant, and make extra sure the pushrods are seated properly on the lifters and rocker arms. if theyre not youll bend them, then have to make one motor just a parts motor. if your doing it with the engine out of the vehicle, it should be very simple and straight forward. less than a days work and youll have the engine running again. give 'er love and she'll love ya back and run forever

so i went in and its the managers father that is the supposed current owner, even the manager isnt sure if he still owns the car. also found out that its a brat, which just makes it that much better lol. theyre gonna contact the owner who originally did the swap to try and track down the car for me. if i do end up finding the car, i will be taking pictures of as much as theyll let me. as for the perfomance of it with such an engine, im gonna presume its very slow, but very powerful. ill update soon when i find out more

Ive had to get into the bell housing on two of my subarus,and if you dont have a engine hoist, about your only option is getting a friend, unless you feel comfortable holding the weight of the transmission less than a foot above your chest and are crafty with a jack, and dropping the transmission. Or you just do what my mom did, and use a tree to swap the motor on my grandmas truck. Dont ask how she managed that cuz i have no idea lol. I have also heard that its easier to pull the engine out and leave the transmission in the car, but again it falls on lack of engine hoist in my case. Disassembly front eh bottom is fairly straight forward. starter comes off, clutch and hill hold cables, wiring harness from top of transmission, speedo cable, and the exhaust headers if your exhaust is clean enough you can unbolt the joint behind the transmission to, or like mine the bolts were rusted together so i just wedged the exhaust out of my way. You can pull the axles entirely, or pull the roll pins and slide them off as the trans drops out as i did. Takes a little more coordination upon reassembly, but with a friend helping i think it may save a little time. Trans is held in by the cross member under it by 4 bolts to the body, and to the engine by 5 (i think) bolts, 2 of which are also for the starter. dont remember if the ea82 body has the sway bar under the trans too, or if thats just the ea81 body. if it is, just a simple few bolts and it falls off. when installing the new clutch, hopefully it comes with a centering tool, and make sure the disc is facing the correct way. It should be printed somewhere on it 'flywheel side' or something to that effect. From there, 3crows pretty much has you covered for what to look for in the bell housing. reassembly, as usual, is reversed from disassembly. time frame for this way of going at it is probably and hour or so for disassembly, and maybe about the same if not a bit more for reassembly, granted you dont run into any 'jesus' bolts or stripped or broken bolts. *jesus bolt being defined as a bolt that you just pushed with all your might and with a heavy grunt have now lifted the car off the jack stands and it still wont budge, and you cant help but go "Jesus!" If you have access to air tools, you hopefully wont have said problem lol.

While in Oreilys looking for a water pump for Grumpy Car, one of the guys working there mentioned that someone he knows swapped a Kabota tractor deisel into an 80s subaru and that it mated right up to the subaru transmission. He didnt know much specifics about the car, but thinks his manager owns it now. Ill be going back in tomorrow to find out more, as im very intrigued with this idea. Has anyone heard of this or something similar being done?

k. after a few days of use with the engine sprayed off, i can see i am leaking for all 5 locations; valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, and front crank seal. also, yesterday after work the car had another hell of a time starting. was about 40f out and it did the same crap as the morning i started this post. what makes it even more confusing is it started just fine yesterday morning (and this morning for that matter) when it was well below freezing when using my standard stomp the gas twice then crank. also it was hesitant today when i went to start it at lunch, though not as bad as yesterday. its doing this now only after i turned the mixture screw all the way down, but it doesnt run as well when warm at any other setting of the mixture. im gonna rebuild my carb when i get the chance, but what might be a good temporary fix till i can do that?