Subeast-EA81

OK, so i had a guy who works at an import performance shop come have a look because i am completely stumped, it ran for 1 minute and we both deduced that the turbo seals where out,... so i called my friend that owns the car, found out that he used Cheep conventional oil in the car when he did the tune up, he also said that the car ran fine for a day or so then stated acting up. so now i will be in search of a new turbo!! (will post add in wanted forum)

i used some bumper and trim paint on the ones on my 84 wagon, just scuff it up with some scotch-bite and shoot it! the beauty is than you can shine it up with amor-all on any trim dressing. i did the same on the wheels so when i blacked the tires i would hit the wheels and they would shine like new!

sorry for the dry spell fellas, we had the sickness blow through the house, so i haven't been able to tinker with it, and on top of that my Explorer took a dump so i had to fix that first! I'll update when i get back out in the next day or two

yeah he did the cap and rotor, would the rotor sinning out of sync cause it to run inconsistently? just a thought. How do you know the little tid bit of knowledge?

no clue as of yet on the timing, ill check it wensday when i get back from out of town

no i haven't checked the gap, it seems to be more serious than that to me, but i could be wrong.

Ok, checked all the hoses and clamps, their tight. here is the newest data -idle is choppy -with foot on floor it will run up to 1000rpms -pumping the throttle gets you 2000rpms -has typical top end clatter -after holding my foot on the floor at 2000rpms the turbo and down pipe turned cherry red in under a minute -unplug MAF, car dies -unplug TPS, car idles up 200 rpms -after i saw the cherry red turbo i shut the car off and herd bubbling noise from right side head. -comp check 120,120,120,175. -even with bad battery, car starts easy -wires, plugs all correct -vac lines all hooked up -runs the same with down pipe off (not a blocked cat) what should the fuel pressure be? i guess i should run a pressure check, with the hot turbo and what not, it must be running lean right? i got all the tools and the know how, i just need pointed in the right direction, this is my first turbo wagon to work on. plenty of ea81's some 82's under the belt and a EJ25, but no turbo business.

keep the ideas coming! i haven't checked the timing, he says that he didn't adjust it, everything looks good at first glance other that the ability to just idle. filter is going the right way, checked that! ill have a look when i get home from work.

i'll have a look tomorrow and re post

not that im aware of but i can have a look, damaged MAF? ill do a resistance test.

my buddy wants me to un-doo what he did, 88 turbo wagon. he did a tune up (plugs, wires, fuel filter, oil and filter) he took my advice and used Genuine Subaru parts. Now the car will only idle, and do none else. at WOT it will only rev to 1000rpms slowly, and it idles @ 500. all his work checks out as far as getting the plug wires in the right spot. manual trans. any ideas? I cant find my book.

i got a good timing belt that i just pulled from my 98, i think it only has 5k on it (i replaced it when i did my oil pump, just because) you pay shipping, you can have it! don't want to see a good OBW go bad.

you can close all valves, just rotate all cams so that they don't have any tension on them, that's when the valves are closed, when i say no tension, i mean that the cam pulleys will rotate effortlessly. the trick is to rotate them correctly.

which pulley? if its an intake pulley, you can remove the intake manifold and use a flexible neck LED inspection light and see the valves quite well, also while doing the belt you can rotate the cams to that all valves are closed and listen with a piece of hose down thw intake port, you will hear air bleed past the valve (this is all done with the timing belt and intake manifold off) i have done this on my 98 OBW, works good.

hope this helps, this is the diagram for the heated mirrors on my 98 OBW

sounds like i need to work on my verbage alittle

so, during my recent timing belt/everything but a major over haul! i realized that i failed to purchase a Chilton's book, so some time spent online i found this site called Alldatadiy.com, its the same information that the dealers use, so for 20 bucks a year i have everything i need, including expanded parts views, step by step procedures , and factory part numbers to use at the parts store,I'm not just talking about the big parts, I'm talking every little part! just thought i would pass that info along, and if anyone has a 1998 OBW i can also pass along information from the site if you need,

thanks guys, im keeping track of the thred, while working on the car, gotta love a little technology in the shop! everything seems to be lining up fine, it was definatly a tooth off, the guy who did it before me used paint pens, not the factory specs, it's really obvious

OK so i got it all tore apart, and this is what i found,..., Timing belt has already been replaced, heads have cometic gaskets installed, newer oil pump with tight screws, however the timing looks like it was off one tooth on the left intake cam, (all marks lined up except that one!) is it possible for the EJ25 to run like this? i have a new belt and will re-time it according to the factory service data I'm just trying to make sure I'm not crazy:banana: nipper: called Subaru in Vancouver, got factory wires, they look so much better then the bendins. hopefully that will help a bit.

yes the plugs are NGK, wires are beldin super conductor, as far as when it comes to doing the timing belt and all that before mentioned service you describe gary, would it be easiest to pull the engine and put it on a stand? i know that on my old 84 waggon it was a prety quick task to have it out if you have a friend to help.

i guess i might be mistaken on what i see then, i guess what I'm making reference to is the breathers on both valve covers (leaking oil) i did the air filter when i did the plugs, any ideas on the knock? its very light at a low idle, and there is mild clatter at 5-6000 Rpm's, but no different that a EA81 at 5000. could it be the plate on the back of the oil pump?

Well my 98 OBW is up for service, plagued with a low rough idle and a bit of a light knock due to the low idle, plus a leaking power steering pump,... I was thinking of replacing both PCV's, pulling the intake manifold and TB, cleaning it with the appropriate cleaner, i already did new plugs and wires, any more ideas?

Ok, this just popped into my head, how many Subaru nuts play paint ball besides myself?

well given that i checked that timing belt before i took a 300 mile trip, it still says subaru on it and is covered in oil, i think its just time to pull my engine out and go through it, there is oil and dirt 1/8 inch on the inside of the cover tells me that its been a while since its been changed and the front seal is out

i guess my next question is, does the new head gaskets take care of the head gasket problem? if so then ill pull the 2.5 out and rebuild it, however if i still have to live in fear that someday a head gasket will give prematurly, then ill go to a 2.2 and boost it slightly.