Subeast-EA81

Thats what i was thinking,... the question being.... getting the vacuum cans arranged so that they function correctly. Should just be another 4wd vac can and a couple of duty solenoids right? i want the 2LOW for situations like sitting in traffic and what not.

So I'm coming up on my Dual range Swap, done the research, looks rather straight forward. Getting the trans from a junk yard so i was planning on making my own linkage for the low range. Question is can i keep the push button vacuum actuator to select 2wd/4wd and just fab a second lever for Low range? (plus there some custom cup holders where the extra shiftier would go)

I'll be heading up from the vancouver area Friday night

Hey all, got a 2008 WRX, has lost the entire bottom end due to a casting flaw in the webbing. Im looking for a short block and wanted to know what everyones experience is with different vendors and which is best. Thanks in advance!

Hey i know that Guy!,.. i have converted my Car to a side exit exhaust behind the drivers side rear door, larger pipe and it sounds much better the my earlier you tube clip

Thanks fellas, this isn't my first rodeo by any means, but when it comes to an internal noise i have never trusted my gut, as for the oil and pressure and what not, the oil is fresh along with a bosch filter, up to proper lever and running about 40 lbs at an idle warm. I did replace 6 of the 8 HVLA's when i pulled the engine for top end overhaul, so maybe one of the two that did test good might be on the blink. Ill update when i decide to dive in (dive in I.E remove cam towers and check, file and massage where needed)

Just in case anyone asks, i did search, and am certain HLA noise is what i think, just need some reassurance (Daily driver = Fix on weekend = limited time to repair)

Sounds like HLA Noise, bouncing ideas around before i dive in. Your Thoughts? http://youtu.be/tklkP5Ooysg

Nice Car, almost identical to mine, except i dont have a black hood. Sweet car though.

Relays under the dash for sure. You can accidentally have a relay make contact under mechanical shock conditions (i.e. closing the door) and depending on how the relay is oriented, and wired will depend on which function it will operate. for example if the conditions are right it could cause the doors to unlock or vise versa. And as for the length of run and suspected amp draw which most solenoids are are in the mA range, and if it more then that, its only for a short burst, not much time to overheat a wire if its just slightly undersized. hope this helps.

dont worry about those covers, i took mine off after i rebuilt the engine, been in snow, mud, and haven't had any issues, plus if you get a leaky crank or cam seal they will just collect all the oil and get it on the belts which is no buenos. i would rather have i leak down on the ground the get on the belts. just my 2 cents.

Sounds to me like you have a wheel bearing issue on the right side (think about the transfer of load to that side while cornering) In regards to the bearings them selfs i +1 on sealed bearings, make sure you get a Good brand like Timken SKF, or FAG. These are industrial Bearings and require no Seals (if you order them sealed that is), so i personally wouldn't bother with getting new seals. Furthermore keep in mind that these are press in press out bearings, so unless you have a press at home you may need a machine shop to install them, (or a couple Sockets, and a Drift) i'll advise against that method as you need to get them in there straight, but it can be done. since you will be removing the knuckle for this job its best to evaluate the remaining components that Rugby stated in addition to the axle assembly as well (commonly referred to as CV Joints). Thats my 2 cents hope it helps

Went coverless long time ago, never going back!

The tick you describe is most commonly a collapsed hydraulic valve lash adjuster (commonly referred to as a “HLA”) this little device takes up any lash at all the valves in the engine, using oil pressure and a “shock absorber” like function. If one collapses, which it sounds like it did, then it will bottom out and fail to transfer the energy from the cam to the valve stem, thusly not allowing the valve to open fully, hence the performance loss and rough idle. I would suggest evaluating your oil pressure, and if its within spec, then plan on replacing the HLA’s. Other members feel free to correct me, but that’s my 2 cents. Good luck.

Thanks all, the block cleans up nice with a brass wire cup on a dremel tool! than,.. polish!

Full top end overhaul, rebuilt the heads, resealed, new hoses ect,..ect,... and replaced the cracked and nasty intake.

Could have been a loose connection. A loose connection will increase the resistance, which in turn will generate heat at the connection. That may be what has happened here, at least thats what it looks like to me.

Sorry about that Presslab, i guess more coffee is in order when writing replys first thing in the morning. I gracefull reasign my thanks accordingly no hard fealings i hope.

Thanks to all who helped with info, I checked everything just to find the evap line from the fuel tank was full of gas (confirmed by lightly blowing compressed air into it with the gas cap off) Charcoal can was full too (thanks @presslab) so I drained the gas tank down below whatever level the evap line enters the tank and capped it off, as-well as the charcoal can after getting the gas out of it. Now the car runs like a dream. My only question is what is the down fall of not having a functional evap system other than emisions?

So i may be dealing with low fuel pressure? that would explain the backfiring through the intake due to a lean condition would it not? Aside from the obvious fuel filter change, what other components might i question? furthermore what should the cranking pressure be? Thanks again all for the input.

So here is the latest, I got home, and had left the gas cap off all night hoping it would vent out, anyways tested the fuel pressure both prime and standing, hooked the vacuum gauge up, retarded the timing to factory (had a mark on the disty) bypassed the vac line from the charcoal canister,… and,… Nothing. Cranks normaly until it pops out the intake then all vacuum disappears (what little you get when cranking) and the engine takes on a lack of compression or unbalanced cylinder sound. Turn the Key off, wait a minute and try again, the starting sounds we are all used to return until the next pop (backfire thought the intake). Work Done – Checked cleaned and re-gapped plugs, removed the injector and cleaned it, resealed the t-body, reset the timing, cycled power to the ecm. Initial prime fuel PSI=20~ Standing=12-15 Cranking=10-12. I don’t think I slipped a T-belt as they are both new, and the fact the after setting the natural sounds of the engine return. Any thoughts? Stuck EGR? I know its getting fuel as the throttle plate is damp with fuel after fiddling with it. I’ll review the FSM prior to be and see if anything jumps out at me.

Is a 91 SPFI, and info is apreciated, that way i can tackle it when i get home.

Did a search, didn’t find much info on this issue, so here goes. That past two times I have filled up, the car seems to get some sort of vapor lock, bear in kind this is only when I fill it up, I use only non-ethanol premium due to the advanced timing. The first time it did it I was able to nurse it along until it cleared up, however yesterday I had to get towed home from the gas station. My assumption is that it is vapor lock, but I may be wrong. I know I will need to check fuel pressure tonight when I get home. Anything else I should be looking for? The car will idle around 2000rpms (lean?) but lack all power.

Well the majority of the checks and fixes lead me to think its time to take it to the bench and disassemble. or retrofit the CAT 150 amp alternator i have been kicking around since it was new. If i end up wedging the cat one in there, i'll have to post up pics, ill try disassembling the one thats in there and fiddling with it first as thats how i operate. The 289 has been a good meter for sure, supose if i wanted to be realy nerdy i could use the 434 and check the waveform, but thats over kill

thanks for the link, i have addressed most of those concerns, other then a more in depth look at the voltage regulator. I assumed it was good as i didnt see any AC voltage coming from the alternator, i may be wrong