baccaruda

hmm, if you're going to have to cut a hole in the hood anyway, you might install a riser under the carb for more torque..

Hi Chris.. how did you get yours wired in? You drilled a hole in it and put it on backwards and left your wires alone? and your car is supposed to have the three wire setup, right? maybe it's not adjusted quite right? I can't say how mine works yet as I've not even taken the old engine out of the car yet.. but since the 3 wire turns backwards compared to how the 4 wire turns, i figured i'd let it turn backwards and switch the two wires that the middle one makes contact with in different throttle positions. Skip.. thanks for cluing me in on that. My car's FIS has one wire and is smaller; the XT engine's FIS has two wires, one to ground, and is bigger.. meaning that the smaller one is too short to fill the XT's FIS socket deeply enough and it's too small to even screw in. that's the problem.. I think I need to come up with a way to make the larger 2-wire FIS send the right stuff to my car.. any ideas?

hi skip... the part i'm trying to figure out now is what to do about this sensor that i've circled in the attached picture. it has some sort of vacuum function to it. my car's is smaller and has one wire out; the engine i'm putting IN the car is larger and has two wires out of it, one goes directly to ground. I'm not sure which sensor to use or what to do with it. i'm not even sure what the sensor is. since the two-wires setup just sends the other wire to ground should i just splice the two together into one wire to send out? i've got the throttle body sensor taken care of. they both do the same thing but they move different directions. so i've "trimmed" my TPS a little to allow stock mounting and i'll switch the two outer wires with each other to handle the differing direction problem. luckily i had a few extra TPSes and mystery sensors to dissect.

boink

well, it looks like i'm swapping tyrel's XT engine into my wagon RIGHT NOW. My wagon snapped a timing belt (strange, one of the things I WASN'T worried about dying) and with the bad cylinder, oil pump, and waterpump, it's easy to see why i'm doing the swap instead of changing a timing belt. The funnest part of all this will be changing the wiring harness, of course. The throttlebody on both cars has a brass hexagonal sensor; small with one wire on the GL10 and larger with two wires on the XT. Should I get an adapter to use my car's smaller sensor or choose a wire to use off of the 2 wire sensor? maybe ground the other one? Chris, how's it going with that flipped TPS trick? I'm looking at doing the same thing real quick here .. Would disconnecting one of the 4 wires out of the XT TPS make your car able to read it as the GL TPS? thanks...

moving the linkage connect tabs up an inch will give it a shorter throw too. easier to reach as well..

i dropped off my shifter at the machine shop today

i usually ground my coil wire to one of the 3 strut bolts in the tower.. it clips right on. unplugging the fuel pump under the car would be the easiest way i can think of to cut off the fuel. then try to start the car and let it run until it runs out of gas.. that way the system's empty and depressurized.. then ground the coil wire and remove the plugs. open the thottle by turning and holding the throttle cable receiver, then stick something in to block it and don't forget about it i think that 4 and C serve the same purpose. both involve unplugging the fuel delivery circuit. i think the coil powers the fuel pump relay? that's why i suggest unplugging the fuel pump as it's simple too. you can get a remote starter switch that you hook up under the hood.. i've yet to use one so get one with instructions good luck with your test

you might consider longer lugs too.. the pugs are thicker and don't afford the lugs as much grip on the studs. at least make sure you check on them..

you do now

thanks guys. skip, thanks for the push toward an a/f meter first.. i would intend that actually but since i had the fuel injector Q in mind now my brain spit it out. a lot of the ausubaru guys upsize their injectors but many of them put on bigger turbos as common practice too

sure. it'll be a while as i have multitudes of other distractions but i'll let everyone know

So i had this plan to use aerosol bedliner (the kind that's $8.00 a can) to toughen up the looks of my last wagon. I had some on the hood and fenders. I put that hood on my current wagon when I got it as it had an off color hood. The bedliner is now faded and is cracking in some spots. No biggie for me as I plan to change the hood again soon (dents and rock chips) but i thought it would be nice to let everyone know that the cheap stuff isn't really all that great. I saw that brian/subarujunkie was planning on putting it on his new Soobme brand rack and thought I'd pipe up.

heh. my travel schedules don't stick to themselves very well. wanna send me a $20 and i'll mail them to you? I'm kind of trying to get my fall cleaning done.

If I install larger injectors on an EA82T for more fuel at high boost, will they be giving more fuel all the time or just when needed? does the car send an on-off signal to it or will it progressively increase the amount until it's getting as much as needed?

you need the rear control arms and the sway bar and the 4 bracket assemblies.. if your car doesn't have rear disc brakes, the car you get the rear sway bar from definitely will and you should take the rear brake stuff too One size bigger in the rear will be more like a rear wheel drive car. I have XT6 bars front and rear in my wagon and it doesn't feel too front wheel drivey. Going to put a stock smallest one in the front and see what I think.

hook it up to a squirt gun. you can fit a small windshield washer tank in the fender. mount the squirter under the front of the car.

that's the spot. some are really hard to get out! I've used a metal coat hanger to make a punch thing out of before...

yes, he means composite singles to sealed quads. That thing Ed said about procrastination? It's true. I haven't put them in yet either :moon: My excuse is that I don't have the wiring figured out. My excuse for THAT is that I haven't taken the time yet. My excuse for THAT is that it's too hard. My excuse for THAT is that I'm full of crap. And THAT I have no excuse for I think you DID have a second set, Ed.

yeah, I have some black lugnuts here with Corky's name on them but they don't have Corky's address on them yet

how hard would it be to put new synchros in my 88 RX tranny? and maybe convert it to 3.9 while I'm at it?

I have a push button 4WD shifter from an XT (pistol grip! yeah!) that I'm going to install in my turbowagon.. I'll have the shift linkage moved up an inch to give it a shorter throw without shortening the shifter, and I'm going to hook up the center diff in my RX transmission to the push button in the shifter :cool:

i have an extra piece of glass for my wagon's sunroof Just In Case. If anyone needs one I see them all the time in the JY I go to, and would be happy to snag one for someone. I think pull n save charges $12 for a sunroof. Don't know what shipping glass safely would cost though.

shannon, one more thing about the RX trans is that the low range is not as low as in the common dual range trannys, so it won't be as slow as the normal dual ranges are. It's not as useful for offroading. I swapped that transmission into my turbowagon and LOVE IT because that low range is very nice for street driving. As far as the locking feature goes.. you wouldn't have to enable it at all as long as you wouldn't mind not being able to lock it up.. i still haven't matched up the wiring harnesses yet in my car; all it means is that i can't enable the locking center differential. it also means i don't have reverse lights so i have to be extra careful If you want to enable the locking center differential, it would be simple. Go find a single range push button 4wd car at the JY and grab the vacuum actuator deal in the corner by the driver's strut tower. It has green plastic parts on it. Get the vacuum lines it sends to that transmission (they'll hook to your RX transmission in a similar fashion) and get at least both sides of its wiring connection(s). If you have the switch for the locking diff for your RX transmission you can use that once you get the wiring installed, or you can use the switch in the shifter for the same car you get the vacuum actuator from. The RX uses the same type of vacuum actuator as the single range push button 4wd cars, the difference in the switch is that there's a power and a ground for a light in the RX's diff switch. Most of what you'd be looking at besides the transmission interchange ( i think your car is an EA81?) is the wiring-in-the-vacuum-actuator issue.. shouldn't be too hard.

blue lights are technically illegal in many places unless the vehicle is owned by a police officer. I've heard of cops being the only people allowed to put those blue dots in their hot rods' taillights.