idosubaru

+1 minus my machinist. 1 in 100, i was surprised by that. subaru does not do a red check. some don't even machine or pressure test, so that's even overkill compared to what Subaru does. pressure tests are most common on here i believe and it's assumed if that is good the head is going to last the life of the vehicle.

does it make the noise also when you press the clutch pedal to the floor or does the noise go away (like while coasting/drifting down a hill)? have you drained the gear oil and checked for signs of metal, sparkles, shavings, or worse? could be clutch related too.

knocking on start up is probably not caused by the knock sensor. there is piston slap, which is very common in EJ engines and then other causes for that too. unlikely electrical in nature. knock sensors off ebay are around $30-$35. chandler motor sports has a wide variety.

i thought about it, i asked but the closest advanced auto parts to me didnt have them, i'd have to go to one of the other stores which are further out of the way. and they wouldn't deliver to that store like they do parts, i had to go to the store that physically had them. i live in the middle of nowhere and my schedule is crazy so it's probably a little more beneficial to me than the average person to have tools on hand. i have two rear struts to do now and two front struts to do in the near future, both on daily drivers.

thanks crazyeights, they would not let me touch the car. guess they're worried about breaking things, loosing parts, stealing, etc. they said to call monday morning and they'll see about getting the mileage. when i do i'll ask if they can remove the cluster so i can power it up for mileage check. thanks! the power and ground are that obvious? i think i have a 2000 FSM, that should show it hopefully.

i'd clear them all and see which ones come back first. address in that order, except ignoring EGR codes, those don't cause issues. i and many others are driving around with EGR removed on ours and codes with no issues, so that's not the problem if it was done right. knock sensor causes the most drivability issues in my experience out of the codes you're showing.

2000-2004 are going to be close to 2005-2009 models. lots of similarities and parts interchange. if i were interested and couldn't confirm i'd compare suspension diagrams at Subarus site "opposedforces" for an outback from each generation and see how different/similar they are. i'm installing a hitch on my in-laws 2009 Subaru in less than a week, i'll be comparing it to our 2002 OBW and see how different/similar it is.

so it's coming from behind the timing belt cover then right? centrally located? if it's not the oil filter or oil cooler (not all models have one of those though, but it's fitted between the oil filter and block), then you probably need to reseal the oil pump. the oil pump contains the front crank seal. it's likely that seal or the oil pump itself is leaking. it would be best to time this job with a timing belt change as the timing belt has to come off to do it. so why not throw another $59 timing belt on there. subaru charges $350-$700 to do a timing belt around these parts. price to change that seal would be about the same, so rather than pay for both jobs separately, nice to combine them if you can.

there's no need to do anything just based on seeing milkshake in the valve cover hose. but i'd change your oil very soon. if your intake manifold gasket was leaking coolant into the combustion chamber that could be the reason of the milkshake you're seeing in the valve covers. since you're replacing it and said it was leaking then this sounds probable. though i'm not positive what you're asking - valve cover gasket, head gasket, or the hose you removed? if it was running fine before, then there's no need to replace anything. oil leaks generally don't require any replacement - just adding oil! get those intake gaskets on, change the oil, and drive. valve cover gaskets never need to be replaced unless they're just pouring oil out all over the ground. most EA82's i've found don't run well with leaks, so if the hose is bad you'll probably need to replace it. but if it runs fine without it then don't worry about it, it'll be fine until you get some hose to replace it.

awesome, i think i'm going to buy two sets of those heartless, thanks!

i can't watch the video due to connection speeds. violent shaking under acceleration has always been cv axle related (particularly the inner joint) in my experience but there are other causes. aftermarket cv axles are particularly prone to this and are one step above scrap yard junk. look at axles and see if they look old, torn boots, or recently replaced with an entire aftermarket axle. and +1 on ignition - plugs and wires can make the car nearly undrivable, the engine in that car is not very forgiving with plugs and wires. it is best to stay with NGK plugs and Subaru wires. let us know what kind of plugs/wires are in it.

what imdew said. they're usually in decent shape. clean it and the axle face it seals against up and lightly grease. if you're all for replacing it then there's nothing wrong with that but definitely not necessary, i've never done it...maybe once. i've never heard of swapping ball joint boots, very interesting! i wouldn't install the torn one at all, i'd consider that one trashed.

i'm at 180,000 and doing the struts. i asked in another thread and folks said there's no reason to replace springs. thanks, this all sounds like fun!

have a set of rear to do now on my OBW. fronts later. i'd rather buy something if i can get something decent for $50 or so. crack - everyone has had to use a hammer and alignment is tricky? painting? there's a dust boot in the way right? doesn't seem like good access to see how everything is fitted, guess it'll make sense when removed. alignment is easy - i've done zillions of axles, bearings, etc. by "harbor freight for all 4" - do you mean the big clamp one-piece $59 type or the little two piece all-thread type? i saw some folks write that you don't even need the compressors to reassemble the rears?

didn't see a dedicated thread for this. best option i read was to use three of the just simple single unit threaded style compressors. they usually come in packs of two, but three keeps them safely from wanting to tweak to the side. i've seen folks suggest not use the HF compressor (like porcupine mentioned it) never done this before so would rather err on safety and ease.

vaseline is commonly used to keep them from sticking too. maybe you could find some of the clips with a larger head? problem is these were really small and i didnt' find any matching ones at the auto parts store - but i only looked at one place and was looking for stock sizes. they definitely have lots of stuff larger, everything was. maybe even use a plastic/rubber grommet or washer under the head of the stock clips? lowes/ace has drawers full of various plastic bits like that. or make your own long plastic "washer" to fit in the gasket groove? that's what i think i would do, should definitely work. a long thin sheet of plastic would probably work perfect. not sure if this is a good idea but you could slit the "outer" part of the gasket to install a clip into possibly? last resort kind of deal. i just fixed my 02 OBW a month or two ago. i only had one or two unusable slits so it's holding up just fine with the remaining ones replaced.

nice - i just saw the 56 and assumed 56 milliamps, good call guys. i still haven't gotten to mine yet. tracked mine down to the same circuit as the trip computer (but the trip computer was not the culprit). i have an aftermarket stereo in mine too though i unplugged the radio fuse which did not help, i suppose i may have tapped into a different wire for power or something....hmmm......be funny if we ended up with the same cause! good luck, this thing has been annoying!

just take a look at those rings before they fall off and take note of which way to install them. it's quite obvious - the "larger" diameter sits closest to the axle shaft. the axle nuts are tough - 3/4" tools or air tools are your friend there. the brass hammers and such shouldn't be necessary - 1 out of 20 or more times do you run into that. *those* just happen to be the situations most likely to be posted about - so you seem more problems here. i don't post threads about the 100 successful axle removals i've done, so what you see on forums is a bit swayed. but, like you said, you'll get to avoid that, definitely a good thing. not sure what kind of access you have to the outer clamp on the outer boot but it might even be possible to do the outer boot too because it's installed once the inner joint is removed - you slide the new outer boot all the way along the shaft. with a worm type clamp or zip tie (yes some people use them, i haven't tried it yet), you could probably do the inner boot too.

you can definitely do them on the car. no one does it because it'll take longer. this comes down to removing one nut to get the axle off, the axle nut - so maybe in two minutes round trip (or a minute or less with air tools). add another minute for tire removal if they're still on. takes that much time to crawl over the radiator supports a couple times! but you won't have to worry about seized axles in the hubs which happens sometimes. if you do remove the axle it's a good time to check your front axle seals, clean them up, possibly replace them if they're bad. those are what keep the wheel bearings from failing.

no. tensioner and pulleys are more prone to failure than water pump. a search on any subaru forum will show far more EJ tensioner/pulley failures than water pump. and that has been my experience.

it'll go out on it's own. turning the car on and off three times will reset the computer as well. so after your third time driving it, it won't come on. many stores like advanced auto parts or other chains check and clear codes for free. or Subaru might "hook it up to their sophisticated computer" for $50.

has the fluid ever been changed? maybe needs changed or bled? is there any reason air may have been introduced at the clutch change - though i'm with you, doesn't make sense it would be fine....then not? it is really difficult to get air out of these things (couple other threads about it). i believe GD came up with a repeatable method. i've had to do all sorts of crazy things to get the air out...like wait or drive/bleed/drive/bleed - seems the moving/driving or setting overnight allows bubbles to finally make it out that straight pushing fluid doesn't always get out. i've had to replace the slave and hose before as well and while i can't recall the exact symptoms but the clutch pedal was definitely wonky yet drivable. i'm not sure if i'm just agreeing with you but the "sticky" clutch seems to be familiar in my mind. i remember looking around since i was new to hydraulic clutches, finding the info about the slave/hose and replaced those and all was fine after i played circus clown trying to bleed it! do you find any other threads about the slave/hose failing and what symptoms they had?

i was sort of joking about doing it in the engine bay: it could be done but would not lend itself to ease with the way the joints/boot/clamps go together. not sure what they're called but the joint has little "discs" that go on one way and need to stay on as you slide the end cup in place and it starts to get messy as the new grease works around the joint/parts and you're trying to slip the boot/clamp in place. simple to take it off. good luck, sounds like yo'ure on it!

yes they slide right off the trans stubs, knock out the 3/16" pin and off the axle comes. it only installs one way so make sure the holes for the pin line up correctly when you slide the axle back on. boots are really easy actually - just extremely messy. if the outer boots are okay you could entertain the idea of just doing the inners, which in my experience are the most likely to break - they're closest to heat. you could probably do the inner boots in the engine bay if the engine is out! :lol: the strut bolts are never rust/corroded or a problem - so that's a 100% repeatable and simple option for me where rust is a huge problem, unlike suspension bolts lower than those. i'd just reboot them and roll. aftermarket axles absolutely suck, i'd rather reboot known (or probable) Subaru axles any day. i rebooted some front axles that broke boots on the start of a 4,000+ mile trip into the mountains of colorado and were shaking violently on the ride home. they've been quiet ever since and that was 2 years ago. even when noisy subaru axles last an insanely long time, so if they develop noise they'll last years probably anyway, plenty of time to ignore or plan ahead for a repair. but chances of that happening are small anyway.

i think one of the best EJ25's to have would be one currently running great with original headgaskets - that pretty well assures you that it's never been overheated due to headgaskets which is the primary source of severe and unpredictable overheats. a preventatively replaced headgasket would be fine too - but finding and verifying that would be rare. engines with the headgaskets already replaced are really nice - but on an EJ25 that is really good sign also that it's probably already been overheated when they blew. like the 57,000 GT i got last year....HG's replaced at 34,000 under warranty by Subaru - engine block blown at 57,000. i don't think there's any way to quantify that. running above normal for 20,000 miles is probably worse than once in the Red....but in the Red is probably normally worse - there's just too many variables to say "this is worse" or "bad". besides - how are you going to tell or ask when you buy a motor? ask the junk yard :lol: or the owner "how many hours did it spend above normal" "how many minutes in the red"? you'd have to find a one owner vehicle that's driven every single mile of the car and watches his stop watch and temp gauge for every mile in the past 15 years. my guess is you're looking for a deal John, and not paying top dollars - that will probably be more the determining factor than anything else anyway. like most of us on here!