idosubaru

yeah, it's all here this swap is really easy. there are a few choices to make. the only difference from the other swap you did are these: the intake has to match the engine (can't use EJ25 intake on EJ22 engine) unless you get a 1995 engine you also need an EJ22 exhaust manifold. 95 EJ22's are the only ones with dual port exhausts. but the single port exhausts bolt right up to the EJ25 vehicle, so it doesn't really matter, easy to swap that too. a 97 or earlier engine will have a different bellhousing but it still bolts up just fine. again read about that here. if you get a 95 engine you'll need to make sure it's from an automatic, or if you want to remove the EGR system (like i did), get one from a 95 manual (doesn't have EGR). it's all here, just read up, there's lots of various options and stuff and everything i've said is explained.

if that oil consumption was verified/documented prior, it sounds to me like that dealer could be confronted. rare, but it happens. you can't introduce a system that adds parts, hoses, clamps, failure points, and significantly increases temperatures and keep the same kind of reliability of a non turbo engine. when i lived there will i was doing 120 a day. i started at 3.5 day per week (3 one week, 4 the next) then went to 4 days a week with promotions, etc. my dad works 2+ days per week from home. took him 6 months of me convincing him to ask/look for that kind of a schedule. he's glad he finally pursued it! guess you don't have any options like that? helps to have something to leverage in your favor of course. skills, experience, some kind of organizational benefit to the folks you're working for. look for it, find it, make it happen? when i moved to WV they offered a 2 day per week gig, which i took.

Owners manual will say as well.

something doesn't sound right in all of that. there's always details we don't know and another side to the story but yeah 4 liters between changes it not normal. the owners manual would probably say so. 10k for a motor? that's insane. 160k in 3 years? wow. 50k a year is intense.

if everything else is still fine i wouldn't let this lead you to buy a new one so quickly. this sounds minor to me. i wouldn't do the trans fluid stop leak additive myself. is it leaking? if the fluid hasn't been changed in 30,000+ miles, just do a simple change and see how it does. make sure all of your tires are matching - tread and pressure are proper.

i do know someone that did it, though i don't know all the details. i'm fairly certain you can swap the harness and front diff and bolt it right up. i was planning on doing this a year ago along with a front LSD, still have the EJ 4EAT i was going to use, but then i bought a manual trans XT6 so i abandoned the idea. wouldn't surprise me if there's something over at XT forum about this.

how many miles on the car? has the transmission fluid ever been changed? any work done to the engine/trans? are the tires properly inflated? do the tires match in type, size, and treat wear? have they been roated consistently? this is not all that odd if the car is really spinning out, it's just detecting that slippage and increasing the transfer to the rear.

yes cap and rotor can easily cause this. plugs wires might be routed improperly. timing belts not installed correctly. the distributor might not be lined up right. disty timing is off.

awesome. thanks for sharing all of this Dbullen, that's a big help. i probably would not have thought much differently about changing the oil in this one compared to any others. so i ordered an owners manual today, though I doubt i has oil change details in it. thanks again.

since a legacy trans can run just fine in an XT6 (takes mechanical work to make it work of course), i don't see any reason it wouldn't "work". the RPM signal as you said should be carefully looked at, but might be a simple work around.

new fluid and some driving can't hurt. don't want to get your hopes up, but it's not impossible for it to "fix" it. other than someone else working on my car i am too the point that paying a place to do the flush is not a bad option. it beats all the time draining, filling, trips to the store, dumping fluid, buying fluid. and by the time you buy a bunch of fluid and spend the gas i don't know how cost effective it is. or try the two bucket method. one empty and one full of new fresh fluid. pull lines and put in bucket. discharge old fluid into empty bucket and suck in new fluid. reattach lines and done.

i'm out of town, but checked an interior pic i haev and there's button, i just have a storage compartment next to the VDC switch. what are those other two buttons adjacent to it - are they blonde (ha ha i like that) star related too? thanks for all the notes, i'll be getting into this as soon as i get back from the holidays.

how did you come to decide to have the tensioners replaced? guess i'm not going to view that as "preventative maintenance" any time soon. $800 makes sense, that's CAN? dealer quoted my cousin $699 for her EJ25 timing belt only. so that's basically $600 labor for an easy job. maybe that chain tensioner isn't as bad as it looks? yeah, seen those pic's a few times, they're fun!

as for the notion of "demand to see it in writing or proof"....you'd be surprised what they "have in writing" in their vaults. they can pull out all sorts of "invoices" and "real invoices" and "this is the actual...."....but they are just fabricated marketing devices. for those that say "they showed me an invoice", it wasn't an invoice. that's a sales move too.

oh wow, how would I know if it had/has this system? i don't know anything about it. nothing in the glove box so i have no idea if it had it. thanks skip, i would have never figured out to consider that!

can i ask too? how much did he timing chain tensioner work run? i'm in the air on those. apparently oil changes are very important for these, but i don't understand why that is. thanks guys, i just got mine las week so i'm learning.

they guy i bought mine from was raving about it too. i hope it's a good bit different than the other EJ stuff i have. in this mountainous and continuously snow covered area i drive in the EJ stuff lacks the traction of my XT6. annoying since the family car is not going to be my XT6!

#1 if your driving is that treacherous that you need chains there's no substitute for snow tires or studded. #2 in general putting chains on your rear tires is a bad idea unless it's going to be entirely driven in the snow (refer to #1)

trans will likely have to come out to make sure it's seated right. sorry to say that, good luck with it. as for the extra connector in the rear, that doesn't sound good? there should just be a rear speed sensor back there.

dbullen - why don't you post the part number or info on that bearing you found? those prices aren't as bad as i thought they'd be. mine has a whine when accelerating fast, i'm wondering if it's one of these bearings.

maybe with that switch removed or hosed it won't properly operate the AWD system? maybe it'll work when the new switch is installed? a fluid change would probably be a good place to start. i have two brand new front Subaru ABS sensors for both sides for a 1997 Impreza Outback sport. Should they be the same on your 96 Outback I will sell you the one they need since I won't be needing them.

Subaru will only replace the part, they won't replace a bearing. that four digit number look like a standard bearing number or part of one. call a bearing supply store and they can probably help better. all you'd need to do is look at the bearing, the bearing numbers are imprinted on the outer side of the bearing seal (the face), just read the numbers and any bearing supply store can cross reference any number of bearings that will work for you. you'd have to find a shop that is willing to press in the new bearings for you. and sourcing the bearings can be a pain too. it's a bit of leg work, but can be done and is much easier if you have some good connections/knowledge of the local places.

well that starts getting into materials, properties and crystalline structures, that's a complicated scenario actually. but the basic principles for this discussion are that fluids are not compressible. this is all basic fluids stuff, i'm sure it's all over the place and easy to find online.

sounds like you have an EJ parts car? will the EJ22 rack not fit in the EA81? it should fit in an EA82 just fine. anyway to make it work in an EA81? maybe swap the EA81 tie rods (inner and outer) onto the EJ22 rack? just thinking out loud. subaru made very few rack changes from the 80's to 2000 even. but i'm not familiar with EA81's at all. swap the entire EJ crossmember, rack and engine? i'm sure that's a no-go?

don't feel bad, the only car i tried to flash transmission codes on a few times and i could never get it to work either. it's a totally stupid set up and i think it's hit or miss. the fluid level is fine now? what happens when you start the car and put it in gear? nothing? does it try to do anything? TRY THIS - unplug the transmission completely, the main harness by the engine harness, unplug it. the trans should work. that will default the trans to completely manual mode, thereby ruling out all electronics. it will be in 3rd gear only at all times (no matter what gear the shifter is in) and the 4WD will be "locked", so this is only a test mode. although i've done this before and powered the duty C so i could control the 4WD..and run it either FWD or 4WD with the trans in 3rd gear all the time. actually i drove a car like this all last year!