jelly man

The fuel pressure has been fixed. Since I burned out a new fuel pump (partly because of a partially kinked inlet hose) and the replacement is running noisy I'm thinking that the flow is restricted, I'm just wondering if anyone just swapped out the fuel/vapor lines while still using the small inlet on the tank and if so how well it works. I don't want to burn out another fuel pump, especially out in the middle of nowhere.

My problem was in assuming the small line was a vapor return and the large line was the fuel return. I got that changed around but the pump is still noisy. On swapping the vapor and fuel return lines the fuel return line into the tank has a small inlet. How did you get around that or did you just use the small inlet? Already checked the tank and fuel suppjy lines and they're clean. I really don't want to swap out the tank if I don't need to.

The regulator had a bad diaphragm and I already replaced it. I already checked the voltage at the pump and it's ok also.

Hi everyone. I just started my 85 gl wagon with an ej22 swap that had been sitting around for years. I had to replace a fuel pickup line from the tank to the pump. The car was having problems driving and I traced it to fuel delivery and pressure. I drained the gas tank and the gas was completely clear of any corrosion or rust. It was old gas so I put in new gas. I blew out all the lines and every line and filter is clear of obstruction and flows freely. After testing a few things out I slapped a pressure gauge on it and the pressure would drop down from 30 to 25 then even 20 and the engine would have no power when you tried to accelerate. I replaced the fuel pump with an ULTRA-POWER E8312 Electric Pump which is a substitute pump for a turbo EA82 engine and I figured I wouldn't have any problems. Same problems. After a few times of trying the old fuel pump and the new one and changing lines and filters the problem is still there. Now the new fuel pump doesn't work at all. What fuel pumps do you all use on your ej22 swaps?

Just noticed the replies to this topic. Please excuse me. I should have made it clear in the title also. I don't know how to edit the title so I edited the original post to make it more plain. I'm making a survey of those who have actually done this. No more and no less. I searched the board and only found a few mentions of those who had actually done this and no problems were mentioned. Please just post only your own experiences with reused mls head gaskets that have been torqued, undone and retorqued once on an ej series engine without the engine being run. again -- TIA jelly man

I want to make a survey only of those who have actually reused mls ej series head gaskets that have not been heat cycled. This thread is intended only as a survey of those who have done this. I did a dumb mistake the other day and needed to remove a head that I just had milled. I had torqued the head bolts before I noticed my mistake but hadn't assembled the engine any further. I pulled off the head and looked at the head gasket closely. I didn't notice any damage to the gasket and the gasket looked like new. Two local repair shops said they would buy another and it wasn't worth the risk to reuse the same gasket. The owner of the machine/repair shop that did the head milling said he had done it before and as long as none of the compound on the gasket had come off there wouldn't be any problem. I did a search on the forum and a few people had done this and just reused the same gasket with no problems. I want to start a survey here and see how many people have done this and what their results were. Just post if you have done this on a ej series engine with the mls gaskets. Post if it failed or succeeded, what engine and how many miles are on the engine after the reuse. TIA jelly man

When I made my swap I made and installed a pitch stopper from the beginning before I drove it. The motor mounts split after just a little while of driving. I noticed it because the drive shaft was rubbing on the exhaust. When I looked under the car I noticed that the engine/tranny had rotated because the mounts were sheared which shifted the exhaust enough so that it could hit the drive shaft. The way I routed my exhaust it was a very tight fit. When I accelerated hard the engine rotated and the exhaust rubbed against the drive shaft. When I let off the throttle the problem lessened or vanished. I made the wedges, replaced the motor mounts and modified the exhaust slightly and I had no more problems.

I have an elderly mother who still drives. She is very small at 4'8" and somewhat frail. She drives with the seat close to the steering wheel and if she gets in a crash the airbag would most likely do more harm than good - maybe even kill her. I searched the forums for info on how to disable the airbag but couldn't find anything. I still need the airbag in to pass inspection but just disabled. How?

It broke loose as hard as the rest but then it started getting very hard to turn after a turn or so. I sprayed WD40 on it and tried working it back and forth a little then backing it out a few times but that didn't make a difference. I figured some of the aluminum threads were stuck on the plug and it started getting harder to turn the more I went. I figured I was making a bigger mess of the threads by taking it out so I tightened it back in and hoped for the best. I hit the others with WD40 first. They broke loose hard at first also but after that they could be turned by spinning the extension in your fingers.

I have a 97 outback with an EJ25 that I replaced the head gaskets on just after I bought it. When I had the heads cleaned all the spark plugs looked ok. It now has a low speed misfire after it warms up from idle up to 2k-3k rpm. The onboard diagnostics says it is # 1 cylinder. I replaced all the spark plugs but # 1 because it started to strip out and I didn't dare pull it . The others came out easily with WD40. I swapped # 1 and # 3 injectors and changed the coil and replaced the spark plug wires. It still misfires on # 1 cylinder. I also swapped the plugs on #1 and #3 injectors and still it only misfires on #1 so I don't think it's in the wiring or the computer either. The next step would be to replace the # 1 spark plug but I'll probably wind up having to pull the head and putting in a helicoil. Before I try that can anyone think of any other cause or anything else I can do? I'd sure hate it if I go to all that trouble and it turns out to be something else simple that I hadn't thought of.

Just pulled the right head. I didn't even remove the intake manifold just undid the 4 manifold bolts. Dropped real easy. Thought you might want to see the results. What would make a piston crack at speed? The valves were retained with keepers in place. The wrist pin is still free in the rod and the rod has an s bend. Thanks much for the advice!

I've got an EJ25 with mechanical problems. The engine only turns over 90 degrees even with the timing belt off and the cams released(valves shut). The outer electrode on spark plug #1 was smashed over the center electrode. I can only take off one torque converter bolt. I don't want to make a mess by taking the torque converter off with the engine. I'll have to take the heads off afterwards to recover the torque converter anyway. Is there enough room to remove the heads inside the engine compartment????

Thanks for the offer. I'll take you up on it.

Thanks. ("there called the half moon dealy ma bobs, that go between the thing a ma jig and the hoozy whatzit ") - That's it. I was wondering if anybody sells them as part of a gasket set or separately other than a dealer - (PLUG-CYL HEAD #11051AA070).

Title says it all. At the rear of an EJ25 head there's a semi-circular black plastic plug. Mine got damaged by the machine shop. It blew out and now leaks oil like crazy. Any place other than a suby dealer that carries these?

I thought only 95-96 outbacks w manual tranny had an ej 22 option. I've helped with a 2.5-2.2 swap before. I'm thinking of putting an ej25 from a 2000 outback into a 1997 outback that has a blown ej 25. Thanks for the input. It sounds a little bit more than I want to get involved with.

I just bought a 1997 outback with a bad dohc engine. I can pick up a low mileage 2000 outback sohc engine. I've done swaps before but not this one. Will the engine fit and bolt up to the mounts and tranny? Will wiring harnesses plug in? Do/can I need to swap intake/exhaust manifolds and/or sensors? Any advice is appreciated.

It doesn't miss if that's what you mean. It just acts as if it has little if any power - even less that the original EA82 that was in it. The transition is very clear though. Once it hits a certain rpm it just takes off.

I have a 92 EJ22 in my 85 wagon. It ran fine after the swap for about a year then it started running weak at low rpm. Under about 2500 rpm it barely accelerates, then when it passes a certain rpm (about 2500 my tach isn't hooked up) the engine kicks in and runs normal. This behavior is independent of throttle setting, engine temperature or vehicle speed. I've replaced the coolant temperature sensor, maf sensor, O2 sensor and checked the tps(it's ok). It's runs rich at low rpm evidently. It started a couple months before my emissions test. It fouled out plugs and wiped out the O2 sensor (all were covered with black soot. It was running way rich at both low and high rpm. When I replaced the O2 sensor the high rpm passed but the low rpm was still rich-about 3 times the maximum allowable HC and CO limits. The new cat brought low speed emissions into compliance also but if I keep running it I'll wipe out the O2 sensor and the cat again. The computer isn't setting any codes. I'm stumped - any ideas?

I have a 85 gl wagon I put a 92 EJ22 in. It passed emissions fine the first year but this time it has problems. On the first test it failed both high speed and idle. I changed oil and replaced the O2 sensor and cleaned the plugs. The plugs and sensor were covered with a fresh layer of black soot that cleaned off very easily. On the retest it failed at idle, not as bad as at first but still over twice allowable on both HC and CO. I've just replaced the temperature sensor and cleaned the air filter (it wasn't too dirty so I just blew it out with compressed air). I can't find any intake or exhaust vacuum leaks. During the test the IAC regulated the rpm real close to 700. If any one has any suggestions I'd like to hear them. It will cost me for each retest.

Yes - the light is only flashing when the connectors are joined. It stops when they are unplugged.

Again the ECU is not putting out any codes. It will not do so. All it does is flash the check engine light at a steady rate. No long flashes for tens and no short flashes for the ones. Just flashing at a steady rate. I gave up counting after over thirty flashes.

Evidently the impreza has the 3 relays on the fuse block. I checked the wiring and the ECU is definitely flashing continuously in u check mode. I just assume this means a bad ECU. Any other thoughts or ideas?

Where is the fuel pump relay? We checked the 3 relays on the fuse block and all worked fine. I really need to know to follow the power.