jelly man

The clutch came yesterday. Everything (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool) was there. I'm doing a EJ22 into an EA82 swap so it will be a while before I can tell the board what the clutch is like.

I just found a source http://www.alleurasianautoparts.com for $73 for an exedy clutch. Don't know what it's like but I went for it. I'll keep the list posted on service and quality.

I'm looking for a clutch kit for an XT6. I searched the archives and found 2 places recommended for clutches: Dial-a-Clutch and The Clutch Place. A friend recommended Carolina Clutch. Does any one else have any recommendations?

I can get some 4wd wagon struts from a friend. The FSM says they are the same length but stiffer. Will they fit?

The strut mount on my 92 4wd legacy sedan is broken. The rear suspension was just swapped from a 4wd wagon. I still have the old 2wd struts. They bolt to the knuckle above the hub on the 2wd and in front of the hub to allow axle room on the 4wd. Other than the stronger cartridge on the wagon are these struts interchangeable?

A very important note. The TCU's are not the same. My tranny was howling very loudly. I pulled the new TCU and it is stamped 2wd. I pulled the old TCU and it was stamped 4wd. I checked the number of pins on each box and they still are the same. I swapped them and the problem is now fixed.

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I'm swapping the awd auto drivetrain from a 91 legacy wagon into a 92 fwd auto sedan. The mechanical parts are going fine except the torque converter. Is the converter from a fwd tranny the same as one from an awd? I need to know what electrical parts (TCU, relays, wiring, etc.) that I NEED to swap also. I'd like to swap as little as need be.

I'm trying to pull an engine and tranny from a couple 91 legacys. On the first legacy I pulled the tranny separate from below and it was really tight. I figured I'd pull the second set together from above and I can't see where it's hanging up and I'm afraid to use too much pressure. I've already removed all connections and the starter and radiator for extra room. It comes forward a couple inches and tilts up and is very close to fitting between the front crossmember and the firewall but I don't want to force it and maybe bust something. Has anyone done this before? Will it fit?

Thanks to everyone for all the replies. They've been really helpful. Since the XT6 clutch is more than adequate I've decided to go with that.

I need to resurrect this thread. I am putting an EJ22 into an 85 wagon. I'd like to use the stronger EJ22 clutch assy. if it works. Did anyone ever follow through with this spacer setup and see if it works?

I just got a 92 Legacy sedan 2wd automatic that doesn't shift right. It stays in first until way past normal shift point and won't upshift from first to second if there's more than a 1/4 throttle. It won't shift into third or fourth at all. I also have a 91 Legacy wagon awd automatic that runs great but has a wrecked body. I have 2 options: 1)I could fix the tranny and the keep the sedan. 2)I could put the awd transaxle, driveshaft and axles (maybe front axles also if different length, gas tank if different etc.) from the wagon into the sedan. If there's anyone with experience with these particular things I sure would appreciate advice.

I've got several EA82 alternators I want to rebuild. Does anyone know a good supplier for the diodes, voltage regulator and brushes?

I searched and found the page on early legacy locks before I started this thread. That was clearly not the problem in this case and a few others were wrongly referred to that post when they had a problem similar to mine. It's definitely not the broken plastic hook for the spring in the lock remote. The electric lock selonoid jams and puts continual tension on the lock requiring you to push the rocker to counter the force while opening the door lever. The solution just required cycling the electric door locks until they finally worked. It helps to put pressure on the rocker while when cycling the door locks. That way it locks and unlocks every time.

I have a 91 legacy wagon with a passenger door that will not open on the inside unless you hold the door lock rocker open while pulling the door handle. I searched the posts and have found others with a similar problem but no solution posted. Problem solved! It was a sticking electric door lock.

The 87 EA82 shop manual says 123-145 ft-lb and to stake the nut after tightening.

My friend and I went hiking yesterday in the mountains. It was a long drive in my 87 gl wagon on a crowded dirt road. We had the windows up and the AC on so we wouldn't eat dust from other vehicles. I just bought a NEW RADIATOR 2 MONTHS before so the cooling system could take the climbing and the AC on at the same time, right? We took a side road through a creek and climbed the road about a hundred yards and parked. We got out, smelled antifreeze, saw it dripping from the grill area, popped the hood but didn't find the leak. We went for our hike and looked for the leak after it cooled off. We filled the radiator with creek water and saw it pouring out as fast as we put it in. We coasted out of the mountains and then towed it home. When we pulled the radiator we found that when the AC fan was on it had caught the water, flexed forward about a half inch, enough to catch the radiator tank and then flexed along the side of the tank into the core where it sheared a couple of tubes before it was stopped. The moral of this post: NEVER CROSS A STREAM WITH THE AC ON!

I'm definitely interested in this too. I have the welder and tools. I want put a 2 or 3 inch lift on my 87 wagon. If the procedure is the same for an EA82 wagon I sure would love to see some pics of the fabricated parts and the installation so I could do it.

I have a ea82 spfi engine that I just discovered a cross threaded spark plug hole. The plug was only in a third of the way but very tight. I couldn't put the new plug in straight no matter hard I tried so I just followed the same threads in about a third of the way till it got tight. I called a parts store/auto shop to purchase a helicoil kit and they said they have had problems installing the helicoil kit because the hole is to close to the valve seat and it ruins it. They won't do them any more and reccommend definitely not to but to live with the plug as long as it doesn't leak even if it's only in a third of the way. This is cylinder #2 just behind the alternator. The search engine doesn't show anyone who has done this on an ea82 engine. Does anyone have any experience with this? Can it be drilled out/tapped part way and the insert be put in part way? Does the #2 cylinder have a hole too close to the valve seat or is there enough clearance on this hole?

I'm painting my 87 3door coupe. That black goop is all scraped and being replaced. The brand I'm using is 3m Strip-calk (part no. 051135 -08578). You can buy it at a auto body supply. It's a box of 60 one foot lengths of black sticky cord about 3/16" diameter. If you don't replace this stuff the water runs down around the liftgate, on top of the taillights and into the car and floods the under floor tool box compartment.

I'm fixing up an 87 3-door coupe. Does any one know of a source for rear wheel arches? http://www.rustrepair.com wanted $60 which seems a little steep.

I was replacing the burned coils on my heater/ac fan resistor block. I was wondering if anyone had one in good shape that they could check the resistance values on. I need the resistance to figure the length of nichrome wire coils to replace them with. The coils on mine are broke and corroded so I can't get a good reading of the resistances.

My 87 subaru shop manuals shows them being under the dash some place. I looked under the dash and can only find one white one there with a tee configuration(two terminals like -| ). Strange enough there's one like it by the green test mode plugs under the hood but not a matched set there. There is a matched set of single terminal white plugs in that location. Are those the read memory connectors?

I just got a 87 dl SPFI wagon. I open the throttle at low rpms and it loses power unless I let off. In short just like a carbed engine. I tested the throttle sensor, coolant sensor, air flow sensor, air control valve and timing. All are within specs. I already found the two green test plugs under the hood and used them to set the timing. I started to check the memory codes and I can't locate two test connectors by the control unit under the dash, just one. Where is the other connector and does any one have any ideas what could be causing this problem?? It's just a little worse when the engine is cold if that helps.

I could only find 6 bolts that hold my 86 SPFI EA82 camcase to the head. It's still stuck on. Before I really get violent with it and bust something are there really only 6 bolts? Found the other two bolts. Before I replace the cam case, missing lifter and rocker, What would cause a lifter to go through the valve cover? I just don't want it happening again with the new cam case and lifters.