jelly man

I have a 93 impreza with no voltage to the fuel pump. I tried pulling the codes. There were two plugs under the dash near the center that I plugged together. I guess they were the right ones but when I turned the ignition on the check engine just kept on flashing constantly. Any ideas or suggestions?

Just got a used caliper for $10 and installed it.

I have a stuck e-brake lever on the right caliper of my 85 subaru. I took the boot off and it is very rusted inside. I hit every thing with pb blaster and tried hammering the lever back and forth and hammering the shaft it attaches to up and down but nothing budges. How do I free the lever? Could there be something wrong inside other than rust that would lock it up? I searched and couldn't find any answers. Help-advice anyone?

I decided to go ahead and use the original converter. I used a telescoping magnet extended through the shaft attached to the converter through to the bottom of the converter to remove any metal. I swirled and tilted the converter around a lot and didn't remove any metal from the magnet. I can't see any metal in the oil that I poured of the converter either. Hopefully I'll be ok. On the shaft that attaches to the converter there is a black plastic split ring near the end. Is this the seal you are talking about? Other the split in it which I assume is there to facilitate installation/removal the ring looks fine.

I got a tranny from a 96 EJ22 legacy sedan TZ102ZABAA-CL to replace the original 96 EJ25 outback tranny TZ102Z2ABA-CH. I got it in ready to bolt the torque converter and flex plate together and found the holes can't line up. The torque converter on the EJ22 is smaller and the holes are in to close to the center. I see two options. Use the EJ25 converter/plate combo or the EJ22 one. Will the EJ25 converter work in the tranny built for the EJ22? Is it a stronger or better built than the EJ22 convertor? Will the plate from the EJ22 bolt on the EJ25 engine or is the bolt pattern or clearance different?

I just tried it to replace my differential and it works great. The differential does come down fast and heavy though. Ouch!

The mechanic said it was only from 96 on that it matters - but I wouldn't know about it anyway. I'm not into transmissions.

My mistake - it's an EJ22.

I just found a 96 EJ22 legacy tranny at pick n pull. How do I find the drive ratio? My outback rear end doesn't have a label on it. A local rebuilder also mentions thay if I put a different year in that the tranny will pick up on it and set trouble codes to trip the check transmission light so it won't pass emissions. Also after the code gets reported a few times the tranny will go into failsafe mode and will wear out quickly. Any one else hear this?

I've called around for a used tranny. I'm getting that it has to be from a 96 2.5 awd outback only. The difference between the u-pull yards with a 98 and the regular yards with the 96's is $550. Why won't other years fit? Will swapping the tcu allow for other years to fit?

I just replaced my EJ25 in my 96 OBW. I had problems pulling the engine and transmission together the last little bit. I heard a few pops. When the two were bolted up I couldn't turn the engine to line up the converter and flex plate bolt holes. I pulled the engine tried reseating the converter (kind of difficult) and put the engine in again. The engine runs but the transmission won't engage when in shifted into gear. I did a search and found out I just borked my transmission pump. Has anyone replaced one? Does it wipe out the transmission case or is it possible and/or practical to replace the just the pump? I'd like to pull the engine and replace the pump with the tranny in if possible. I did a search on this and couldn't find anyone who had replaced one. Any advice, comments especially from someone who has done this would be much appreciated before I start again.

The block clearly has EJ25 cast into it. No mistaking it. If I could figure how to upload the photos I'm sure someone could recognize it. Fotos are up!

I had to use Internet Explorer to upload the fotos. Mozilla wouldn't work.

I purchased an ej25 from tigerjapanese in Toronto and I'm really wondering about it. It's supposed to be a 96-98 EJ25 non-turbo. It is an EJ25 but the exhaust headers join at the front and then run along the right side. The pipe ends in a flange near the rear of the engine that angles slightly upward. There is a mounting plate bolted to the head and engine block just below the top of the engine that has two holes where something was mounted. The way the plate is rusted it looks like it had something very hot mounted to it - like exhaust or a turbo. Supposedly there were no turbos in the US for those years. Were there any turbos in Canada or Japan at that time? I tried a compression check on a couple cylinders by cranking it by hand on an engine stand and I could only get 15 psi. It takes about one second per revolution with a half second pause between cranks to reposition my hand on the wrench. I've never cranked an engine by hand before but 15 psi seems ridiculously low. The wiring harness plugs in the back on both the right and left sides. The idle air control valve is on the left side. I've attached a couple of pics so someone can tell me if it is a turbo and if it's from Japan or not(why would the exhaust go to the right on a right side steering car where there's no room?). I'm guessing that it's from the 96-98 year range also??? Any answers would be much appreciated. I just don't want to waste time putting an engine in that I'll just have to take out again. I can still get an ej25 from another friend for $600 - $700 with 120 k on it.

I replaced an carbureted EA82 with a fuel injected one. I had to drill the head to put the pipe in for the egr. There was a indent in the casting that just needed to be drilled. Does the JDM EJ25 have a similar indent in the casting that I could drill and tap? I was quoting a price from tiger japanese before but after doing some quick searches online I decided not to go with that company. Does any one have any experience with JDM engine suppliers they'd like to recommend?

I pushed each lifter down when the camshafts were off. They all pushed down uniformly and smooth. The crank spins freely but causes a slight knocking sound when pistons 3 and 4 top out and 1 and 2 bottom out. I turned the crank with my hand pushing in on each piston. Piston 3 has a slight click or knock when it passes both top and bottom. The others move smoothly. It seems like too much work to fix the rod knock when I can get a jdm engine shipped to my door for $910 and they'll throw in a tranny for another $250. I'll probably wind up junking the block and keeping the heads and intake manifold.

I just purchased a 1996 Outback with a bad engine. I'm replacing the engine with a jdm engine. The tranny has 150 k on it. I expect this car/engine to last another 150 maybe 200 k. That puts the tranny at 300+ k miles. Now rather than later would be a convenient time for me to replace the tranny both time and money wise. How long do these trannys hold up?

Thanks to all who replied to this thread. I pulled the engine, heads and oil pan. I can't see where the problem is but it sure is hard (near impossible) to see the crank and rods. The heads look ok. I'm just going to replace the engine with a jdm engine and keep the heads, manifold and accessories.

I just got a 96 Outback with an EJ25. I picked it up cheap because of serious mechanical problems. It has either something loose in the top or bottom end that sounds as bad as a thrown rod. I can't pin the noise down to either side or the center. My question is if it is easier to work on or replace a head with the engine in or out of the car. That's considering total labor including pulling the engine. If it's close to a tossup then I'll just pull the engine anyway cause it will need replacing if the problem is in the crankcase. Any advice from somebody who's tried head work on an engine in and out of the car would be much appreciated. TIA

I started to grind it down but that took too long. I had a friend have it milled where he works. The washer hangs out in front of the recess a bit which helps to support the front of the mount better also.

I got some used mounts from a junk yard that were in good shape. I made some wedge shaped washers from 3x3x3/8" plate. They are tapered from the 3/8" on one edge to zero on the opposite edge. I drilled a hole in the center and had to grind the rear corners so they would fit flat in the recess in the cross member. I also had to take a hammer to the cross member and completely flatten the step on the upper or outer side of the recess to allow clearance for the mount. It fits good.

I finished my EJ22>Loyale swap and ran into a problem with the motor mounts. The old mounts split because of the different angle between the cross members on the Legacy vs the Loyale. The mounts on the EJ22 fit into a flatter v in the cross member. The Loyale cross member has steeper sides to the v where the engine sits. The angle is 21 degrees on the Legacy vs 30 degrees on the Loyale. This caused the mounts to split and separate on the lower inside area. After driving a little the split spread out across the rest of the rubber so each mount is now completely sheared. Each one has a split that tapers from flush at the top outside to 3/8" wide at the lower inside end. I searched the retrofitting forum and no one has mentioned this problem. Maybe my mounts are old and weak and can't take up the difference in mounting angles. Has anyone else had this problem? Are new mounts flexible enough to take up the difference and last? Has anyone changed the mounting angles and if so, how? Any advice/comments welcome please.

I have a 85 GL wagon that I dropped an EJ22 into. It has been sitting for a few months until I can figure why it won't start. It won't hit on even one cylinder. I bought the wiring diagram from Kennedy engineering but I had the shop manuals and they were just as good. The engines cranks. I have fuel pressure. I have no spark and the injectors aren't firing. The engine and electronics came from a running vehicle that I had. I checked the ECU for all the correct power supply voltages and grounds. I also checked the wiring harness for continuity from the ECU to the engine harness. Everything checks out. I have also swapped out the ECU and ignitor from another working vehicle. I have seen in other threads on this swap that on an automatic transmission ECU the inhibitor switch wires from the ECU might need to be jumped? I've tried jumping them,grounding them and leaving them open. What's the correct procedure for the wires b9 and b10 on the ECU? Any other ideas/suggestions/help would be appreciated.

The machine shop that I checked out said the spec for the step is .815".

The clutch came yesterday. Everything (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bearing and alignment tool) was there. I'm doing a EJ22 into an EA82 swap so it will be a while before I can tell the board what the clutch is like.