phishy75

OK, so I threw this out earlier today, and already two peeps have responded saying they have the same prob. WTF??? Is this a common thing? I didn't get a good chance to try and trace it down today (good thing tomorrow's Sunday and I'm not a football fan) so I'm hoping someone else is gunna reply with a fix before I spend the whole day tommorow doing it:brow:

being that it's gunna be the gf's car, I chickened out and went with the stock muffler. The DP and the pipe back are great, but there ain't no big rumblin goin' on. I did get the guy down at the muffler shop to patch up that hole (for free too:grin: ) so that I can throw it on some time in the future just for fun:brow:

I take it you didn't do your cam covers yet. Are you leakin or burnin oil?? Maybe I'll stop by tomorrow and bring over the turbowagon:brow:

I didn't get to drive it before (well maybe 5 mins) so I don't know if this is a new prob. It does seem to be more noticeable now that I am aware of it though. I was thinking wastegate??..?? But the mention of mixture has me wondering... maybe the O2 sensor could be fried - it has something to do with the mixture doesn't it? It is really quite surgy. By that I mean when it's boosting, it boosts great for a sec or two, then pauses for the same amount, then boosts, then pauses etc... It seems to be pretty uniform times (about 2 sec I'd guess) of boost then no boost and the turbo light is on the whole time. Any other ideas guys?

Make sure you think it will back out with an easy-out. Maybe soak it with some penetrating oil for a while first. You'll be totally screwed if you break and easy-out in the threads. I'd be inclined to drill it and use a helicoil... Just my thoughts:drunk:

Yeah, good times:banghead: Mine was seized in the manifold itself, not in the head. The threads were fine, but the shaft of the bolt had gotten so rusted it welded itself to the bore of the manifold. Whatever you do, don't do what I did... I thought I'd get it out with an easy-out (before I know it wasn't the threads) and ended up breaking the easy-out in the bolt. As you can imagine, you can't drill out a bolt with a chunk of easy-out in it. REAL FRIKIN NIGHTMARE:mad: Had to go through the other side with a die grinder (not the most precise tool). Too much time and effort but it finally came out. Good luck

I'm sure it's not a transition form no-boost to boost. It happens after the turbo light comes on (boosting) if I'm not really heavy into the gas - sorta half throttleish - the light stays on so it is still boosting, but it bucks really mildly. Nothing too harsh, and I'm not too worried about it, but it is noticeable. It's sorta like the boost is doing an on/off thing but it's quite light. That's the best I can describe it... I'm happy too Bushbasher - it turns out that manifold you gave me has totally different electrical connectors (different years I guess), so I had to work the broken bolt out after all. Still got the manifold if you want it back:drunk: Ideas???...

Finally got the turbowagon running after putting in a new HG and fighting with a broken intake manifold bolt, new exhaust (cheers to Vanislru) and a few other fixes... She runs great, pulls great, wobbles a bit (needs new tires), but I did notice that when the turbo is boosting in mid-throttle, it surges a bit. No prob when the turbo isn't boosting, and when I'm hard on the gas she's fine and pulls hard, but it's that mid-throttle area that has me wondering what's up. I'm new to turbo's, so I'm not too sure what it might be and what to look for. cheers

And maybe by then I'll have a real wagon (ie non stock) so I can go play too:brow: Although with a little one on the way there's not a lot of xtra $$$ lying around to play with. Oh well - priorities. Was definitley a good time though...

My turbowagon had a leak from the passenger side cam tower so bad that it was a constant drip right on to the exhaust up-pipe. You can imagine the nice smoke show whenever it was running:lol: . If yours is a N/A, then it wouldn't hit the exhaust because it is routed diferently. If the front area (i.e. cam seals and oil pump) is dry, then I would guess that it is coming from the cam covers (valve covers) and/or the cam tower where it mates to the head. This is pretty easy to fix - especially on the passenger side. The cam covers have rubber gaskets that you put on without any sealant (and put new bolt grommet seals on that come with the gasket kit). The cam tower itself is sealed with high temp gasket silicone. When you reseal the cam tower, you must also put in a new oil passage o-ring (about a 1 cm o-ring that your local subie dealer will sell you) and make sure to follow the directions of the high temp sealant - usually finger tight at first for an hour and then snug down and let cure for about 24 hours after that. Good luck tracking it down.

Check to see if the OPSU wire is connected. If it is, and you still aren't getting any reading when running, try grounding it out (disconnect it from the OPSU and ground it to the frame). When it's grounded, the gauge should go up to the top. If it does, then you're OPSU is fried. If it doesn't, then either your gauge is hooped, or the wire is broken somewhere. BTW, how old is your oil? If it is old and thin, then your pressure will definitely go down - though not usually to 0.

Gotta throw out a hats off to Vanislru and Bushbasher for a great time on Sat. Both those cars are serious monsters. Had a good time ridin along up the trail - mmmmm makes me want to build a trail monster. BTW Bushbashers name is well-deserved:headbang: Thanks also for the manifold (Bushbasher) and exhaust (Vanislru). Gotta love the subaru community helping each other out. Looking forward to seeing those vid clips Vanislru:brow:

REALLY?!? Well it did take a lot of time and swearing, but finally (thanks to my bro-in-laws power tools and a bigger hammer) I got her out!!! :banana: Re-assembly has begun....

Lookin forward to it. Talked to trev - looks like we'll be out around 11ish. My little stock wagon is itchin to watch some real wheelin:grin:

yours??? or a friends? You sure you don't wanna come:brow: It's be a real rally:lol:

I'm all over that intake manifold Bushbasher:headbang: I was gunna call Roland tomorrow and check cuase that manifold was there the last time I was there (about 6 weeks ago) but if you got one, I got some bevies for ya:drunk: Roland is a cool guy and great prices too. I just PMd Trev and told him we should swing out to Sooke so we'll have to hook up for sure.

No doubt... actually she's been really cool about it - even made me cookies last night. Must be that "motherly instinct" kicking in - she's getting round:lol:

The latest... I got the manifold off and actually removed the head by spinning it off the seized bolt:lol: The manifold is fubared - that bolt is totally stuck in there - tried heat, drill (but that won't work because of the broken easy-out), pounding, more heat & pounding all to no avail. No chance of getting a blade in there and cutting it out. Lesson learned - shoulda drilled to begin with, and skipped the easy-out. How much meat is there on the aluminum around the hole? I think I might try drilling around it a little, but I might end up in the coolant passage - oh well nothing to lose now... Prolly off to the JY on Saturday to find me an intake manifold.

BINGO. You guessed it. Finally got the manifold to budge and the head slid far enough away from the block to get over the dowels. Hammers can be your friend when wielded properly:brow: The bolt is totally rusted to the manifold - I can spin the head on the threads, but the shaft is stuck right in there. Can't drill it out cause I already broke off an easy-out in the bolt and a drill won't go through it. Time for some heat and more hammering... Thanx for the input guys:drunk:

yup - it's like she's superglued:banghead:

I'm trying to do the HG on the passenger side of my EA82T. Managed to break off one of the intake manifold bolts (the long one of course). I wasn't planning on taking off the intake manifold, but since the bolt broke I need to. Trouble is I've got all six (well the five remaining) bolts out and the manifold won't budge even the slightest bit. I've tried persuading it, but it won't go. Is there more holding the manifold (MPFI of course) to the heads beside the six bolts? Or is it just the old gaskets sealing the manifold to the heads? Anyone had this problem, and how did you break it free?

Congrats - I'm jealous. Mine is still sitting in the driveway waiting for my bro-in-law to bring over his portable air compressor & cutting tools so I can get my damn broken intake manifold bolt out (it's a long story). Hope she tunes up good for you:drunk:

If you're sure the mickey mouse gasket is in good shape and properly installed then I would definitely wait a while for any air in the lifters to work its way out - this can take quite a while. Also you must be sure that a bit of gasket goo was put on both spots (top and bottom) where the mickey mouse gasket seats against the block mating surfaces. If not then you should pull it out and put some on 'cause it is a spot where the oil pump will suck air and you will never get rid of the tick no matter how much MMO or other additives you use.

SWEETNESS:banana: I'll try and get the mounts cut off today and send them right away with the wobblypop xtra. Got a hole drilled in the broken bolt, heated her up and stripped my easy-out trying to get it out - she's really in there. Off to get another (and hopefully stronger) one.

Hope most of the beer bribing took place after the motor was out. Pancaked toes suck:lol: