phishy75

it sounds like you could be out a tooth on your timing. the first time i replaced t-belts, i was a tooth off and wondered why it wasn't running quite right for about 100km before i fixed it. i recommend running without t-belt covers (others will disagree) so it is easy to get at all that good stuff around there and you can easily move it a tooth if you don't have a timing light to check with. as for the TOD, did you put a bit of gasket sealant on the block mating surfaces when you re-sealed the oil pump. if not - you really should. if you did, make sure you take the car for a really good run before you assume the problem isn't fixed. it can take quite a while for all of the little air bubbles to work their way out of the lifters. i think it took at least 50km for mine to get nice and quiet. now my exhaust is louder than my lifters too:lol: good luck and keep us posted

Methyl hydrate is was gasline antifreeze is made from. Does sound like it could be water in the gas - this should fix it. Good idea from Northguy too... Are you sure there is consistent power to the fuel pump? It could be shorting out if there is a bad connection. Good luck.

I'm throwing out a big YOU ROCK to Vanislru, who shipped me his old crossover/up pipe and non-cat down pipe for my turbowagon. After much swearing, jacking, and a little more hammering than I liked I got it on yesterday. Happy Ho-Ho

I've tried back between the CV's, as well as the oil pan with wood under - both still lift the whole deal. Gettin a bit frustrated, but I'll keep on plugin away. I'm gunna keep the cat on for now 'cause I don't have the $$ to get the rest from teh DP back (Xmas and all ya know). Besides - it's the wifes car, and she wouldn't fully appreciate it anyway:rolleyes:

I thought of that too - tapped the mounts out a little before jacking to make sure they didn't catch but still no go. Any other ideas?

Well I'm not really pulling it, but I need to lift the motor a couple of inches in order to get the exhaust up pipe on ('85 3AT EA82T). There isn't enough room to feed the pipe through with the motor in place. I tried unbolting the two mounts form the crossmember, but the whole car lifts. Do I need to disconnect the tranny just to life a couple of inches? cheers

i fixed a similar sound on my rear left side by just packing grease into the bearing. didn't even have to remove or replace the bearing. different of course on the front with the cv, but you might want to just pack it with grease before you try tourquing down the nut.

http://www.mizpahprecision.com/ CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP Never bought them myself, but the price is right compared to what else I've seen.

just make sure to do it slowly and be meticulous. The timing is really not hard - at TDC one timing gear is up and the other is down (there are little marking nobs on the gears). Which side are you doing? The passenger side is easier because there is more access room and you only have to take off one t-belt. If you are sure it is the lifters themselves, are you sure it is only two of them? There are 8 in total... Did you use a bit of gasket sealant at the block mating surface when you resealed the oil pump? There is always a little irregularity where the two halves of the block meet. The first time I resealed the oil pump i didn't put any gasket goo on these spots and it didn't help - the pump still sucked a little bit of air which gets into the lifters and ticks away:banghead: . Next time I just put a liitle dab at each spot before replaceing the pump and everything has been gold since:grin:. Definitely worth considering. Good luck.

fair enough. I wouldn't know cause my motor with 230kms leaks maybe 10 drops between changes:grin: I'm sure the little extra leakage is well worth the extra life you will get out of your motor though.

maybe curiosity will fix it too:lol: sounds like an electrical short - maybe a good jiggling will fix it again. You know cats do have 9 lives

It makes sense. The amount that leaks should only be dependant on the viscosity of the oil you use. If anything, synthetic should leak less because it is less prone to viscosity breakdown over time and will not become thinner as it gets older. I've heard that myth plenty before, and always wondered about it's validity. Interesting tidbit...

doing with the motor in - then you'll need some heavy grease to hold the rockers on to the HVLA's when you go to put the cam carrier back in place. I've even used vaseline with no bad side-effects its petroleum jelly after all... RTV, Ultra Blue, all good for the cam carriers cause there is no regular gasket. Just make sure the oil passage o-ring stays in place when you re-assemble. For a few bucks it can't hurt to reseal the oil pump too. Just make sure to use some gasket goo on the seam where the two halves of the block meet.

Yup, ditto the fuel filter idea. The gas I used to put in my truck in Honduras was half water I swear. Might be a good idea to take a jug or two of methyl hydrate (gasline antifreeze) and a funnel to put it into the gas tank whenever the gas gets questionable.

you can also get conductive copper paint with a little brush. I got some for my wagon at Canadian Tire, although I doubt you have those stores down there:lol: Should be available at any good parts store.

yeaaaahhhhhhhhh gooooooooooood:drunk:

Vanislru - YOU ROCK:headbang: I can't wait to feel that turbo power:brow: For sure we should have an island meet - maybe up on the mountain for some wheelin and boarding. I know Martin spends a lot of time up there and your prettymuch at the base. Any luck with rebuild kit for your caliper?

... what the air suction valve (or so it is called in the haynes manual) is and/or does. It is the ~1" diameter hard tube coming off of the head right at the exhaust manifold. I think I'm getting some fluid coming down there. No idea how or why, but I pulled the exhaust pipe off as soon as it cooled down and there is a wet patch right where that tube ties into the head. cheers

hey martin - i work for your dad:lol: yeah i've checked for external leaks and i'm sure that's not where it is. Can someone please tell me what the air suction valve (or so it is called in the haynes manual) is and/or does. It is the ~1" diameter hard tube coming off of the head right at the exhaust manifold. I think I'm getting some fluid coming down there. No idea how or why, but I pulled the exhaust pipe off as soon as it cooled down and there is a wet patch right where that tube ties into the head.

for sure. after xmas sounds good cause it's pretty hectic up until for me. i'm gone next week, but will be back on the 28th. can help out eve's or weekends. let me know

oh yeah - didn't notice the EA81 part in your post... The mechanics down there can really work wonders with nothing - kinda like Cuba. Everything down there is CHEAP - especially in Guat, Hond & Nica. If you speak Spanish and like to haggle, you should be able to get work done for next to nothing. If you don't and they rip you off - then your still paying way less than you would here:drunk: PM me if you've got any specific questions about places to go

ditto - my java mug is a perfect fir:grin:

I don't know the answer to your question, but having lived in Honduras for a couple of years, I can recommend that you take a good "spare parts" kit (especially a set of t-belts). You don't see a lot of subies down there, so parts might be hard to get if you have any problems. Where I lived in Honduras there was unleaded gas. As for in Nica, i was traveling by bus, so i never took notice. I'm sure your subie will get you through if you treat her nice:) Have a great time - those two countries are fantastic - especially Nica - my favourite country in all of central america.

sounds like it might have been a little excessive.... how noisy and what kind of noise were you getting? HLA clickity noise, or something worse. If it was just the HLA's, then he went way overboard. Not that a full rebuild is a bad thing, but I know i don't have an extra $900 lying around. Were you losing coolant - filling the rad regualrly and blowing white smoke out your tailpipe? Then it was probably the head gaskets. Reconditioning the heads is normal when you replace the head gaskets - it makes them true again and seal properly against the gasket. I'm not totally sure, but I think down here it is about $50 per to get them done.

try flipping the disty back around... just a thought. it sounds like this jerkoff has no clue. the only thing i would take back to him are court papers. rough go man. hope it all works out for you