phishy75

True enough. Oh well, it's a labour of love yada yada yada... I don't think penetrating oil will do much considering I had oil droplets spraying out from the seal when I reved it:lol: I have already broken a pick off in the seal. Might try another stronger one if I can get my hands on one. Otherwise out comes the rad and in goes the drill... wish me luck:drunk:

Yup on the EA82T. She's got a serious leak from the main seal. Should be the last thing to get her all good to go (I hope like hell). Maybe I'll try the drill if no other ideas come along.....???

Got a puller and got the timing gears off the crank, but now I can't for the life of me get the front seal out. I see the seal has a bunch of divits on the front face - is there a special tool for doing this? Or should I just keep digging and prying and hope I don't put a big scratch in the crank or block? ARGH HELP!!

Your oil pressure sounds pretty good. I had mine running around 30 psi for a while with no problems, but the the TOD came a knockin. Re-sealing my oil pump (no new parts, just the two orings and the shaft seal) brought the pressure right back up and got rid of the TOD totally. It now runs around 45-50 psi when all heated up (70 psi on starup) and alls well. You really should change your oil in an EA82 every 3-5K miles. It will like you for (and so will your HLA's). As for power difference, I didn't notice much if anything but she sure sounds better:grin:

She's good & stuck. Borrowing a puller from a friend tomorrow - is this normal??? I thought they were supposed to come off easily, or maybe with a little persuasion, but it's really on there tight.

Yup, that's what I'm talking about. Tried the penetrating oil with no luck. I'll try some more and let it sit overnight. Thanx

I'm trying to change out my front cam seal on the EA82T and I can't for the life of me get the timing belt gear off. The cam pulley came off no prob with a quick engine bump, and I've tried gentle prying and tapping to try and loosen up the TB gear but no dice. It is supposed to just pull of isn't it? Any good tricks to get the darn thing off?

Fluid Film works pretty well too. Costs a mint, but it works great plus its a really good rust inhibitor that doesn't wash away.

If you have some sun, and any mechanical aptitude whatsoever, you should do it yourself. Six bolts (assuming they're not seized), lift it off, clean the surfaces well and slap in the new gaskets (best do both), bolt her back down. Doesn't get much easier than that:drunk:

Damn. I suspected as much. Worth a try anyway...

just drink cans of beer all the time. problem solved:drunk:

Tonight I noticed a vacuum line coming from the top of the 3AT (EA82T) and going... into space. Hmmmmm. I'm thinkin this might not be right. Anyone know where it should be going? There is a vac line coming from further back on the pass side of the tranny that goes to the intake manifold. The line I'm talking about comes right off the top near the front (not too far from the starter) and the hose is only about 10" long and can't reach anything that looks like it should connect to. I've been having some weird turbo surging problems (boost, pause, boost, pause, etc) and I'm hoping as a long shot that this might have something to do with it.

Huh... interesting... it only does this on my EA82T. Doesn't make a bit of difference on my N/A if the oil cap is on or off.

Do you have a shop? If you wanna get your hands dirty I can help. I've done two HG's between my two wagons and they're really not too bad. First off, make sure it is the HG (compression check for starters and you can pull the plugs and look into the cylinders for coolant if it's really bad). If you're just going through coolant, it could be an intake manifold. If you're sure, do you know which side? Hope for the passenger side... shoot me some more details and maybe I can help out.

I might be off here, but isn't teasdam talking about an additive that goes in with the ATF, and not with the gear oil? I know Lucas makes many different additives, and I think they have both. I'd like to know for sure cause my 3AT is in need of a little love and an $8 bottle of love (assuming it helps) is alot better than other options.

My '85 EA82T runs and idles fine, but if I rake off the oil cap, or even pull out the dipstick while it is running, it bogs down really bad and sounds like it is going to die. It doesn't die, but it runs like crap. PCV system??? The PCV valve is new (non-OEM) and I just put all new PCV hoses on too. Also, the cold idle works great, but when I start her up partially warm the idle is low and she idles rough until she gets up to operating temp. Ideas??? cheers

nope. mine isn't. take a look at the tag on the diff and it will have LSD on it if it is.

My '85 Ea82t Has A Vf2. Just For Interests Sake...

I'll throw my limited knowledge at a couple of these: 1) Most guys (and gals) around here highly recommend OEM parts. I agree for the most part, but I have been known to break the rule (and so far to no ill effect). You will definitely pay more from a dealer, but especially when it comes to things like gaskets (head, intake or exhaust manifold etc) they really are superior. I know you can get jobber top end seal kits for pretty cheap. 2) Maybe. These motors can go forever. That's my best guess:rolleyes: If it's been really abuse and run without oil, then it is probably a good idea to go into it further. 2a) dunno, havent dunit 3) Are you sure your alternator is working properly? How about the connections and grounds? 4) No cat = faster, especially if you make the exhaust bigger all the way back and do a few other tricks. Look up performance mods and you'll find tons of info. 5) Have a look in the little compartment on the drivers side in the back. There are two and both have latched doors. I think it is the smaller one more towards the back. I'm done.

Put my name on the BS list too. First off, you're talking about a TV comercial - you can work wonders on TV and make it all look totally legit. Secondly, be careful of additives in general. There are a few out there that are good longterm preventative maintenance tools (like MMO or Lukas), but a lot of them claim to do way too much than is possible and you might as well use your $$ to do some real work on your motor (or drink a few bevies and watch the superbowl). I guess what I'm saying is take these miracle claims with a grain of salt (and enjoy a few bevies on a Sunday afternoon:drunk: ).

Everywhere you look you see old grandmas driving. That's what's so scary about Victoria!!! True point though - lots of mint subies and also lots of bagged rustbuckets that have been totally thrashed - that's why we lovem though, they keep on runnin.

kewl

hmmmm... do i want a free vac gauge... DUDE talk about good karma:cool: COD of course. Any luck with the oil pressure?

Welcome to the board:drunk: Where are you located exactly? For the temp issue, definitely get a new t-stat (180 deg OEM) and maybe do a flush. If there was ever a coolant leak and someone used bars leaks or something like that it can really gum up the cooling system. If your pads are good on the brakes, it sounds like they might just need a good bleed. It is crucial to do it in the proper order too - rear passenger, front driver, rear driver then front passenger. I bled mine twice with the same problem before I know the order and it didn't help. Did a good bleed in the right order after I found out and it made a huge difference. Good luck and keep us posted.

IMHO you prolly don't need a new oil pump - just a re-seal. I could be wrong, but usually a re-seal (and make sure to put a dab o' gasket goo on the two block mating surfaces where the mickey mouse o-ring site) will work wonders for oil pressure and lifter noise.