ringe

Do the dealer bulbs come with the condoms?

Ah I see where those bulbs are. Shouldn't be too hard. It will be interesting to find out if these were burned out from age or from careless spills, as Kudd mentioned. I know my wife has aleady managed to spill soda in there, making the a/c switch stick a bit . Thx folks!

Hi, I recently acquired a 98 OBW. I can't remember if my old 94 Legacy had this issue or not, but the HVAC controls are impossible to read at night because the only lighting they have is the little lights below each button for the mode controls, and I don't think the fan or temp controls light up either. Is this normal or do I have a bad hvac control module? Does it have replaceable bulbs? Thanks folks.

I have to say that I concur with your experience with a worstened 3-4 shift. I put Redline in my WRX after about 5k miles as part of a general upgrade to the shift quality of the vehicle (shifter bushings and fluid). I found after a while that if I revved 3rd gear past 4k rpm it would crunch going into 4th. This winter the Redline has been exceptional, but I will try the Valvoline Synpower stuff this summer. The never-ending oil battle... -Ringe

The OBW has marginally better ground clearance IIRC, but if you have good snow tires, like NoahDL88 said, you can make it through some rough stuff. I had my 94 leg in snow deeper than the actual ground clearance of the car, and with my Blizzaks I just churned right through it.

The SVX is a car that I love, but I just was not impressed when I finally had a chance to drive one. It was a 96 with AWD, 96,000mi and in great condition, but I guess I expected more from the engine, and it was just so sluggish compared with V6 engines I was used to. I suppose the weight of the car with the tall final drive and the four speed auto basically defeat the engine. It handles fine, nothing extraordinary, but very competent. I still want one someday to slap a turbo or supercharger on and some mild suspension work. THEN it would be a quick machine.

Takes ages to load, and I have cable.:-\

So basically no more BG QuickClean huh?

I just want to add that I used the BG tranny cleaner and additive during my last tranny flush a year ago and it seems to have helped a bit with the transfer clutch bind issue I have been dealing with for a while, and my AWD doesn't balk before engaging any longer like it did before the flush. It could be I was wildly overdue, but the fluid was still red when I flushed it out.

Don't clean the MAF. Whatever you use is not a good idea, and the manufacturers certainly don't recommend it.

Sorry, I mean to say that only part of getting the car down the road belongs to the engine. The transmission has to get it there, so what if we consider that the transmission is the issue.

You check it the same way you check any macpherson strut setup. Jack the car, not the control arm, and do as Ninjaben said. A prybar helps with this.

Oh. Then maybe we should take a look at the transmixer, eh?

For what it's worth Trogdor, I am experiencing the same thing on wicked cold days. I mean 0F, usually in the morning. I am guessing this is normal...wouldn't wicked cold air have a huge impact on driveability?

I changed the timing belt on my 94 leg at 130k miles and about 5k miles afterward experienced a loud screeching from the engine at every engine speed. I discovered later when my front main seal was leaking that one of the bolts holding the hydraulic tensioner piston onto the front of the block had backed all the way out and had scored a gouge in the cam pulley on the left side and gouged the belt as well...still running the belt and pulley, lol. Probably will replace them at 200k when I do timing belt again.

Thanks, search came up with nothing useful, so I posted thread.

Looking at a 94 legacy turbo with about 150k miles. Anything I should look out for?

Cool, thanks very much. That explains that problem. Do you have any recommendations for pads? I would like something less extravagant than Baer or Brembo, but higher end than say Raybestos.

I was at AutoBone looking at Performance Friction pads for my 94 n/a 2.2 Legacy, and found that they only listed pads for 15" wheels which were on the turbos IIRC, so my question is if there is any dimensional difference or design differences between the front brakes on the turbo versus the n/a models. Any help or advice appreciated!

I agree with post above...it makes little sense to just start replacing parts. Personally, I don't trust Autobone or the others to check for codes, for some reason people keep coming into my Nissan dealership claiming that "Autozone told me it was such-and-such a code" only to check it ourselves and find it was a completely different code. This can be true particularly if it is a Subaru specific code; not all codes in OBD II are generic, only the standardized emissions related ones. Take it to a Scoob dealer and have them diagnose it, then let us know what it is. Then we can give you a better idea of whether you should attempt the repair yourself, or have it done by a tech.

How does that trans tune stuff do?

I should clarify, and bump, by stating that the chatter/judder occurs in tight corners, so it is not quite a lost cause yet.

Hi everyone, I own a 1994 Legacy ej22 4eat with the common issue in which the transfer clutch binds up. I am going to see about updating the clutch plates in the near future to see if it alleviates the problem, but before that happens I am going to be doing another tranny flush just as part of normal maintenance. I remember that a certain additive really helped the problem; I added a Motorcraft additive to my tranny fluid at a Subaru specialist shop back home in Colorado, but I don't know the part number or description so I can order it myself. The nissan dealer I work at as a tech can get me the stuff if I can describe it for them. So, does anyone know anything about what I'm talking about, and does updating the clutches in the transfer clutch pack generally get rid of the problem for good? Thanks! -Roy

Thanks for the advice man!

Hi everyone. I have a '94 Legacy wagon with the four speed auto (4EAT?). It is the original tranny and has around 148k. Right now I am making frequent long trips across Pennsylvania to New Hampshire, and as I would rather not have to get towed and drop school for missing too much class, and spend a whole buttload of money on a new tranny, I am thinking about overhauling it (ie, new clutches, bands, seals, gaskets, thrust washers/bearings, etc). Advance Auto Parts apparently doesn't sell a kit for my car; do any of you know of anyone who does, for a reasonable amount of $$? I can do the work in class in about four weeks with my drivetrain instructors there to help. Any help/advice/general BS welcome and appreciated. =D -Roy