rguyver

Cool just wanted to know how that goes because im going to have to do a simmlar thing to my brat with the Brembo swap . The short shifter will look cool but its not a true short shifter . to make it a real short throw shifter you need to move the bracket that holds the shift rod up and re weld it , one inch would be a lot .

Just wondering why are you useing the legacy E-brake handle ? are you going to use the Legacy rear brakes ?

Try this

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7749

I could build sets for you if you sent just the EJ backing plates , thats all i need i made a drill jig to line up the new holes , but if you know a shop nearby that can cut you the rings you just need to weld them in and mark out the hloes . if you still wanted me to build them it would be i gess 100$ + shipping , i would weld in the ring redrill the backing plate and repaint and send them back . not sure on the turn around time it would depend on when you got them to me it only accualy takes 3-4h build time .

dont forget the ring i had to weld in . I had a 1/4" thick lazer cut ring made to step down the inner hole size the new holes endup right on the seem of the inner ring .

The backing plate needs no spacer if you use the XT6 hub it puts the roter in the right spot for the backing plate when you weld the ring flush to the back of it . its so easy its stupid but you need a XT6 5lug hub to make it work on the older 80's rear arms . (shaft splines are diffrent)

like i said you have to use the xt6 hub , the part with the splines that has the lugs on it . "I used the STI roter backing plate and caliper with the XT6 hub on the stock arms,"

I still would never trust a hydro. e brake all seals will leek eventualy . my luck on a hill:eek: With all the projects i got on the go i dont have time to do all my stuff! but ill help with any info with your brat , Van is still 5h away, if you were closer no problem. i would like to see that thing go you will be the only one like it for 100mi around .

I thought of that but like Hodaka Rider said its not legal , also i have to park on hills some times and a hydrolic would eventualy bleed down , it would work on a rally car if all you were doing was Ebrake slides , it would give you good stoping power .

thats having problems ill try later

Ill have to send you the pics Email the pic down load is not happy witl me today , maybe you can post them .

I used the STI roter backing plate and caliper with the XT6 hub on the stock arms, note the ring welded in and the new holes drilled in the backing plate this swap would work with WRX and turbo leg. brakes. im working on the E brake and will have that worked out soon . i think

02 ver7 brembos all round i have the WRX master (sti is the same size i checked ) with the stock 1983 booster it will lock up the rear first so i have to install a restricter valve in the rear . there was some welding ,drilling and grinding to make it all work but the key is to have the XT6 rear hub so that the rear roters work with the backing plate. in the front i used the compleet sti nuckle i had to cut new axels to the proper size but the xt6 use the same splines and would have worked but ended up to short compaired to the xt6 nuckles.

I feel its a must when you are running bigger then 27" , the stock shocks dont have enuff damping force when you are hitting ruff roads , i have jumped mine three feet in the air and have never bent a strut , it also helps keep from ripping the rubber strut tops out .

I have something else cool that maybe going in to the brat this fall :banana:but you i'll just have to see how things go .

i would consider it still a true SUBARU 4x4 if it still has - 1) stock type body 2) stock type engine EA-EJ 3) subaru built trans 4) subaru build diff cases 5) independent suspention and axels with limited mods to increase durability "adding parts to all of that is ok " examples , adding a transfer case and an extra subaru diff OK , a sub frame to stiffen the body is OK , it all comes down to what makes a subaru a SUBARU , but for me all it takes is for you to strap a lawn chair to a subaru engine a ill ride it :headbang:and say its still a SUBARU .

Edit

sorry NO 160$ just with the studs and bolts + shipping 150 $ with out + shipping or 110$ "as is" out of the CNC router , they will need to have the holes re sized for the dowel pins and the upper holes taped they are not checked for proper fitment and are just rough cut parts .

Well i have finally got around to making up a run of EJ-EA adapter plates. They are CNC cut from T6061 aluminum and will need studs or exact lenth bolts , i can suply them for 10$ extra . This adapter is for the older EJ type engine with 4 bellhousing bolts, i can drill and tap the extra hole for the newer 5 bolt engines eg. 2002 EJ20t -EJ25 if requested . You will need to have a 4x4 EA steped flywheel redrilled for the EJ crank pattern , get the holes fill welded and machined and a shop useing the EJ automatic flex plate spacer as a template , it is possable for me to sell finished flywheels with the adapters in a limited number but it could cost 2x in shipping and core $$$$. I'm only making plates as needed and i have 10 in stock now ( 7-18-07) $150.00 U.S. + shipping or $160.00 U.S. with two studs and two bolts, shipping from B.C. CANADA or in larger orders (2 or more) Orvil WA. U.S. E-mail me for payment ,shipping and ,extra info or questions rguyver@hotmail.com OKANAGAN SUBARU CLUB CANADA Regan I sold several at WCSS8 and i have used them on my projects and club members cars with excelent results, EJ power with low RANGE!!!

LOLOLOLOLOL

im going to try to run a fresh batch on monday if not ill bring a fue that i have saved for other projects just to sell for now im not actualy taking orders for them beacuse its sorta a under the table deal at my work but it would help if you want me to save some for a select fue . I will know for sure on tuesday if i can bring more .

all questions will be answered at the WCSS9 , if i get there

It just just shows you how strong that small 6" ring and pinion are iv seen 30" tires kill stock dana 30s and 44s , but i have also seen the subie rear with a welded diff punch a hole in the iron case with 33" and not brake the stub shafts , i prefer that they brake rather then the axel or diff , i can keep lots of them as spares rather then a compleet diff .

No need to replace them with new bolts , there are more bolts on the subaru crank to hold that fly wheel on then a 500 hp V8 . just loctight them with the red stuff and tork them to spec but i just impact them, on the high setting in a cross pattern , Improper clamping surface beacuse of the sloted holes (for the EJ swap) could stress the bolt if over tightened and brake them over time