Cougar

Perhaps there is another signal that is missing or wrong to the ECU. I would really recommend you look at the CAS signal with a scope to make sure the pulses are correct. Did you also make sure that fuse #5 was good? Edit: Another thought. What happens to the input signal to the ignitor from the ECU with the ignition on and no cranking, and then also when cranking? Also, let me know what the voltage is on plus side of the coil when cranking. I am wonder if this is going to ground also. If so, then the ignitor would appear to be bad. My manual shows one of the leads going to a condenser. I am guessing it is on the minus side of the coil. Do you have this in place. Possibly without it the ignitor may be damaged.

That being the case, it sounds like the ECU is turning the ignitor on continually. It doesn't sound like it is shorted or open but is working, just staying turned on and assume by the ECU. You may need to get a scope to look at the input and output signals of the ECU and the CAS.

You are correct Calebz. GravelRx makes a good suggestion bring that up.

Well we ran into a bit of fortune. The service manual I purchased some time back is for a '97 Legacy. Here is how power is run: The power ties to the fuse panel in the engine compartment. The taillight power runs through fuse #23. The power then can go through the relay contacts to FB-26 or bypass the relay to FB-27. It looks like the relays are interchangable if you suspect the relay. Fuse #5 supplies power to the parking switch. I would move the switch back and forth to see if that will help. The output of the relay goes through the switch. The control for the relay is through the lighting switch. Power is applied to the lights through fuse #5 and there is a connector possibly behind the passenger kick panel. The connector may be white and is a 24 pin size. The red wire in pin #11 is the power to the lights. Since you stated that you have no power then I assume the ground is good and since the brake lights worked then it would seem the ground is ok. It may be good to double check though. You should see very low resistance to ground from the light socket shell.

I think that is a picture of the magnetic pickup. According to your first post you have the optical unit, so I think you need a different one.

I think the problem may be caused by a sticky valve. I don't think it will hurt anything but I would let it gently engage rather than rev the engine and make it jerk. Here is a link to a site that you may want to try their transmission additive to see if that will solve the problem. They have a good product I think but I have not tried any as of yet. http://auto-rx.net/

I think you can change it out without pulling the disty but it will be an easier job if you did pull it I think. I have not done this myself. Just going by memory of working in that area. Before doing anything though I would check for voltage getting to the unit. You may want to check the fusible links for a connection problem. Also check the other fuses.

Since you have a test probe I would look for power at the relay for the taillights. You could also try jumpering the contacts to see if the lights will work then. If they do, then either the relay contacts are bad (which I doubt), or the control to the relay is not working (which is what I suspect is happening).

Thanks for the input Dr. Rx. Knowing that info, I would see if there is a signal from both of these sensors by checking the outputs with a voltmeter or even better, a scope. Checking the AC volts while cranking the engine should give you some sort of reading but I have not done this before so I don't know what the reading will be.

I would recommend you follow Ofairlane's tip. Get a meter and measure the voltage of the line coming from the transmission. If you get the same results he got then check the ground to the cluster. You could try using a ground jumper lead to see if that helps. Sorry you are having trouble but I have had very little trouble with the wiring in any of the Soobs that I have owned.

I would check for voltage getting to the ignition with the key in the "on" position. You should have voltage on both the plus and munus sides of the coil. If that is ok then place your meter or test light on the minus side of the coil and to ground. You should see pulses when the engine is cranked over. If you don't see pulses then you need to check the device that does that. It may be a crank angle sensor but I'm not sure.

It would be good to know how much load there was when the voltage measurements were taken. One of the diodes in the alternator may be out but you shouldn't have any trouble with those voltages. Be sure to check out the Subaru replacement offer if you do decided to replace it.

I would test the fuse as Richierich suggests. In case you don't know it, there are small test holes in the top of the fuses that you can place a test probe on and check for voltage on both sides of the fuse so you don't even have to pull it out. It would be nice to know the fuse number that handles the circuit.

You may also want to check the intake manifold gaskets along with the PCV valve for a problem.

Thanks for the clairification Setright. So does this mean that the AC comes on whenever the heater is used? I have heard that the AC is used for the defrost mode but not the heater mode.

The dealer may only have the whole harness available. I would try cleaning the contacts of the connector and then seal the ends with some silicone. Using some electrical tape around the joint of the connector should keep moisture out and then still be able to seperate the connector when needed.

I would suspect that the ground eliminated noise from the ignition system getting into places it shouldn't normally, since the ignition pulses are so high.

It sounds like the sending unit in the tank is not working correctly. Some folks have fixed their units by removing them and cleaning the sliding contacts. There may be two senders in you tank.

Your welcome for the help. The slip amplifier appears that it may be behind the passenger side kick panel. After looking over, there is a number of things involved with this circuit. There is a pulse coil tied too the amp and that may be in the compressor.

The Outback may not be to your liking. It seems you would like the WRX ride more than the Outback. A good test drive will let you know.

Right Roy. If one of the junctions is bad, then the unit can't turn on and go to ground potential. Pretty simple huh. Your welcome for the help.

The connection was the problem I would move the disty back to the original position if you have not done that already. Not sure about the tube.

I'm not sure if they are interchangable but it may work.

Roy, I think the reason there is a spark when he stops cranking is because it turns off the voltage to coil. Sort of what the ignitor is supposed to do. There is only one spark as there is no more voltage present to charge the field again. The ignitor is bad I believe.

Look at the ignitor as a switch. When the pulses from the ECU go to the ignitor they will turn the unit on and this will cause the output to go to ground potential. That will cause the coil to have current flow and charge the coil field. Then when the pulse changes and the ignitor turns off the current through the coil will stop and the field will collapse and a spark will be generated.