Cougar

Do you have an owners manual to look at for info on the AWD system?

I would go for the Bosch remanufactured unit. They are done well and I think you get a lifetime warranty with it.

I think one of the hoses that Roundeye or Caboobaroo mentions is your problem. They are real hard to see and get at. You may have to remove the radiator to work on them.

Very good job. Is the pump toast?

I wouldn't want to put that unit back in my car after getting that hot. Have you tried shopping the internet for a better priced rebuilt one?

Does your vehicle have the fuse for disabling the AWD?

They should work ok. Great price if those are new belts.

Always replace the belts in pairs. You don't want to have to go back in there for another 60k miles.

You didn't state if the alternator is putting out the 13 volts still or if it went back to the none charging mode. Does the fuse have 12 volts on it?

Since the voltage is ok at the battery that means there is a problem with the wiring to accessories. Using your voltmeter check the lead that goes to the fuse panel. Also check the fusible links for a bad connection. One other thing it may be is the ignition relay may be intermittant. I should also mention it could be the ignition switch.

Well, hopefully the next pump is better than that one.

Well I'm sure you learned a lot doing this job. The next one will be easier.

If the distributor wiring is ok then you might try marking the position of the disty and then rotate it while cranking the engine to see if you can make anything happen. If that doesn't work then I would have to say either the injectors are placed wrong or the cam timing is not right. I don't think there are any other options.

Since tapping near the ignition switch seemed to help it is very likely the ignition switch is the culprit, though it may be a connection to the switch instead of the switch itself. Emily, I would suggest making a ground jumper with one end tied to the battery ground and then touch grounded areas with the other end to see if you can fiand a grounding problem. When things act like what you describe it usually means there is a bad ground.

Fried coil and eggs for breakfast. Yum.

Great. It appears you have a loose connection somewhere.

Once again perseverence pays off.

Ok, good job. The lead that had the 66mv on it is your problem. One thing to check is the warning light for the charging system. Does it light up when you turn the key to the run position but not starting the car? If it doesn't then that most likely is the problem. The light may be burned out. The light is in the alternator exciter circuit and if there is no voltage to the exciter then the alternator will not produce any output. If the light is ok then you need check the wire connections.

You are going to have to check the timing by placing the #1 cylinder on the compression stroke and putting it at TDC. Then check the rotor and plug wire positions on the cap. The rotor turns counter clockwise I believe.

My manual shows a BW wire going to pin 19 of the ECU and a RB wire going to pin 13 of the ECU.

After looking at your post #6 I think you may have the polarity to the pump backwards, so the pump is drawing in fluid. Did you try reversing the leads to the pump to see if it would pump then? My manual (for a different model) shows the blue lead for the pump going to the positive side.

Lets do some live tests to see if we can find out what is happening here. From your post #7 it sounds like there is a problem with the wiring between the battery and the cars main power buss. With the car running and the RPM's at around 2,000, turn on the headlights and set the blower to high. Measure the voltage between engine ground and each of the wires on the alternator. You should see over 12 volts on each of the wires. Check the grounding by moving the common meter lead between the engine ground and the negative battery post (not the cable clamp). You shouldn't see any change in voltage from the first reading. Another way to check this is to place your probes on the alternator output lead and the positive battery post. You should see very little voltage drop across the leads. Checking the ground is done the same way by placing the leads on the engine ground and the negative battery post. You should see very little voltage drop. If things are ok there then we need to check the voltage getting to the main fuse panel. Place the red meter probe on one of the main fuses and the common to chassis ground. You should see about the same voltage you saw at the battery, at least 12 volts. If you don't, then check the chassis ground by placing the probes between the negative battery lead and chassis ground. If the ground is ok, there should be very little voltage drop. Then place the leads between the positive battery post and one of the fuses in the panel. If you have more than a couple tenths of a volt drop then you need to track the wiring between the battery and the fuse panel for a connection problem. Most suspected areas are the battery connection and the fusible links.

I would check the fusible links for an intermittant connection problem. Something in the main power buss appears to causing this to happen. Tapping on suspected areas with a screwdriver handle while the car is running may help track this problem down.

You could try placing #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and then see how things line up.

Are the plug wires in the correct positions?