Cougar

I was only suggesting the jumpers at various ground points. Like between the engine block and the negative battery post. For the alternator output connection it is best to measure the voltage between the output connection and the positive battery post with a load on the system, like the lights and blower on. If the connection is good then the voltage drop should be less than .1 or .2 volts.

I can't see how a coil could cause this kind of problem. If you have a spare one I suppose you could try changing it since it is easy to do. Here is a link for all data.diy http://www.alldata.com/products/diy/index.html Here is a link for code explinations. http://www.troublecodes.net/Subaru/

By using a jumper you will bypass a bad connection, if there is one, and things should work like they normally do then. It's just a quick way of testing for a bad connection.

In a circuit that is open at the ground point and has power applied to the other end you will measure the applied voltage at any of the components in the circuit until the circuit is completed and current flows through the circuit. You will then be able to measure the voltage drop across each component in the circuit as the current through it causes a voltage drop. The ECU completes the circuit by grounding the injector. You need to leave all things (the injector) in the circuit to measure the voltage. From previous posts it seems power should be getting to the circuit at all times and the ECU makes the ground connection at the right time using the information from the CAS in the distributor. There may be a relay in the circuit that power goes through for this circuit. If the contacts are open then you won't see the applied voltage, as it seems it is what you are seeing now. You need to see why you are not getting the applied voltage by looking at what feeds the injector circuit. The ECU has ground wires tied to it so you shouldn't need to ground the case to make it work.

I would only use NGK's for plugs. You may want to check the fusible links for a connection problem. I would also check the wiring at the battery and the charge line between the alternator and the battery. There may be a bad connection somewhere. You may also want to check for some bad ground connections by using a jumper wire to tie between suspected areas. I have heard of problems like this being solved by fixing bad ground connections.

It seems to me that this problem is either with the CAS in the disty that is having a problem reading the pulses after it is on for awhile or the ECU has a problem. Changing the disty may be the best first step. This is a strange one.

I see what your saying SuBrat84. I agree, this could be the problem if the power is dropping to the switch due to a bad connection. It is easy to do and worth while to check.

The alignment may be part of the problem. As far as the fusible link being a problem I kind of doubt it since the ignition switch is working otherwise. There is only one power connection to the switch I believe.

To help find the drain you can place an ammeter in series with the negative battery lead and look at the current with everything off on the car. You shouldn't have more than around 80 milliamps of draw. To see what circuit is causing the excess current draw start pulling fuses one at a time to see if you can find the path. The fuse that drops the current flow is the circuit you need to check. A bad alternator can cause a problem also.

I doubt the diode is bad. Even if it is leaking as the readings indicate it may be; though I think this due to other components in the circuit causing this to happen which will have to be isolated to get a good reading; the problem is still no voltage is getting to the 10 amp fuse and the readings show the diode is conducting so it is not the problem. If voltage were getting to the diode it would pass on to the fuse. There is still a bad connection between the two fuses somewhere. You need to follow the wire back and keep looking for the point where the voltage is being dropped. Don't worry about the other diodes that are on different paths as they won't help with this problem. They are for isolating other warning lights. To check them you really need to isolate one end so the meter doesn't back feed through something else in the circuit. We are trying to find out why voltage is being blocked getting to the fuse.

The light is on because there is trouble with the circuit. It is not getting the proper 12 volts from the supply circuit, fuse 13. When you jumper the 10 amp fuse to a hot fuse does the light turn off as it should?

You make some good points on electronic testing Hank and I agree with you. Using a digital meter with its' high input impedance is a good rule when working on solid state circuits. I will say though that using a good analog meter with a 20,000 ohms per volt rating (some members will know what a Simpson 260 meter is) will work fine for most testing on circuits in a car at least. Most circuits external to the ECU don't have impedances high enough to really worry about voltage drop error using an analog meter. Some problems can be seen better using a analog meter over a digital meter. Knowing the type of circuit design you are working on really helps.

Looking at my manual for a '97 model it seems that the switch contacts for the up position may the problem. Have you tried cleaning them?

It does appear that voltage is getting to the gauge alright. I was wondering if you have checked the voltage at the sensor itself to see if it had any there. From the symtoms you describe it sounds like you either replaced the wrong sensor or the wire to the sensor has been broken somehow.

I think the stock design was normally set at 5 psi if I remember correctly.

Gabe, The problem you are having is due to the solenoid wire, coming from the ignition switch, is not providing voltage to the solenoid to turn it on. When the solenoid turns on then voltage is provided to the starter motor through the large battery lead to turn the engine over. Since you replaced the starter this eliminates it as a possible problem and also the battery since you can jump start it. There is a 'inhibitor' or 'neutral safety' switch (located in the shifter area) used in automatics that will keep the voltage from getting to the starter solenoid if the shift lever is not in Park or there is a problem with the switch. You may be able to bybass the switch if you try starting the car in neutral. If it starts then you need to check that switch. Sometimes the switch just needs to be adjusted to fix the problem but it may need to be replaced. My manual (for an '88) shows a black/yellow and black/white going to the switch. Yours may or may not be the same. If that doesn't help with this then there is a problem either in the ignition switch itself or the solenoid wire from it to the solenoid. Since you have replaced the switch also then it is doubtful that is the problem. Using a trouble light, (You must purchase one if you don't have this already so you can track the voltage. They are under $10 dollars.) it will show you where voltage is getting to while you turn the key to start. The black/white wire runs to the solenoid from the safety switch. The black/yellow ties to the ignition switch.

Are you using the original starter? I think there are different starters for auto and manual trannys. Not sure about the flywheel but it may be different also.

"Open or closed loop" refers to the ECU operation, not a sensor wiring design. Did you try measuring the TPS voltage while the engine is running to see if the engine runs smooth also? If the TPS voltage is ok then you should look at the MAF output voltage and see how it is while the engine is being rev'ed up. It may be hard to tell if there is a problem with it since the airflow will change if the engine has a problem.

That is correct. You proved that the wire to the lamp lead was good when you bypassed the bad power lead and tied power to the fuse. The alternator worked. Your problem is in the other direction from the fuse. You need to see why power is not getting to the 10 amp fuse. According to the print, that fuse is fed power from fuse #13 through the charging indicator light and the diode. Th drawing states that the 10 amp fuse is #12 so the fuse to the right of it should be #13. You have stated before that the charge lamp was working ok. Looking at the drawing, that charge lamp is in series between fuse 13 and fuse 12. I don't see how the light can be working and you not have voltage getting to the lamp lead, unless you are looking at the wrong lamp. Having a bad charge lamp would explain the whole problem.

Drive On Bucky92!

I assume you are aware that there are two sensors and one is for the ECU. I think it has two wires going to it though. If you do have the correct wire then it would seem that the wire to the sensor is open since the gauge did not change when you removed the wire from the sensor. Have you tried checking the voltage to the sensor? What model car do you have?

Lots of good pictures there Josh. Wish I could help you with it. Thanks

The MAF is the mass air flow sensor and its job is to precisely measure how much air is going into the engine so the ECU can mix the proper amount of fuel with it. It does this by sending a voltage change to the ECU as the air flow changes through it. The TPS or throttle position sensor lets the ECU know how open the throttle body is by a voltage change on the sensor. It usually has a range between 0 to 5 volts. You should be able to measure a smooth voltage change as you press the throttle from idle to fully open. I suspect your problem is with this sensor.

After looking over the progress on this, has anything been done to check the throttle position sensor for a problem, like Roundeye suggested in post #17? I think the problem may be with the contacts in that. Monitoring the wiper contact with a voltmeter will show how it is doing.

Here is a link you can use that tells the story pretty well. http://www.innerauto.com/Automotive_Definitions/Distributorless_Ignition_System/